Drawer-fronts... advice needed

The wife and I have looked at Vinyl Wrap, Veneer, Painted and solid wood doors for the kitchen. (Flat pack arrives in about 3 weeks) The only ones we could live with are the solid wood ones. The cost is HORRENDOUS!@$#%@$!# about $125 each for the under bench and god knows how much for full height pantry, so guess what??? You got it. My project.
I have made a few doors for a cupboard in the dining room as a test run and am happy with them, but the drawer fronts are a bit of a dilemma.
The doors are a pine frame of 70mm X 25mm, with a 12mm chanel rebated in the centre to take 12mm thick pine lining boards . There is a 12mm X 25mm jarrah bead around the outside for contrast and harder wearing edges.
The drawer fronts can have 70mm wide frames (plus jarrah beading) on the top of the top drawer, the bottom of the bottom drawer and the sides, but the middle drawers are of course not tall enough to accommodate a 70mm (plus jarrah beading) top and bottom frame.
I have come up with a couple of possible solutions.
First one is to mount the 12mm thick lining boards onto a 6mm thick MDF sheet which is set into a rebate on the side frames with a 6mm set-back, then fit a jarrah bead across the top & bottom (& sides) of each middle drawer. This will make each drawer look like a cupboard door.
The second choice is to put a pine beading across the top & bottom of each middle drawer and rout continuation "V" grooves through it to match the pine boards. This would make the whole set of drawers look more like one cupboard door.
The large POT drawers are tall enough to fit the frame & beading across the tops & bottoms, so it becomes a question of what to do to each to make it look uniform.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.:?

Phill.

your on the right track with the backing board but i would fit a 70 x 12 pine piece where the draw joints are going to be then glue the 18 mm panel to this so that from the front it looks like a door with 2 rails across it ,then it is only a matter of cutting through the door and through the middle of the false rails to make the draw bank

Thanks ARMS, but I am a little confused with your reply. If I use 18mm panel I am going to finish up with a drawer front 30mm thick.
Also, there will be 4 drawers in one set, so I will need 3 rails which will look a bit busy maybe?
I have looked at a couple of kitchens since posting and it seems popular to us thinner frame members horizontally (centre drawer joints only, normal width on top of top drawer & bottom of bottom drawer) . It seems to be a compromise situation whichever way I go.

I don't whether you have looked at these people:

http://www.parbury.com.au/downloads/..._downloads.asp

but they make a wide range of kitchen doors, including solid wood ones.
Last I looked, they were reasonably priced.

sorry ,my mind isnt as sparp!!!!!!!!!!as it used to be ,if you are using 25mm frame (which by the way will require special hinges for thick doors if you are going to use overlays) ,and you are using 18mm thich centre panels then the peice that will look loik the draw stile shouls be 9 mm thick ,this is glued onto the front of the panel wherever you require a draw to be ,
then you sinple slice through the door face between these false rails and from the front it will look like a drawer face

Big Shed, Thanks for the link but we want a specific look to match existing doors and Parburys are not in W.A. anyway, so it comes down to DIY or custom cabinet work=$$$

Arms,
That sounds like an idea. I'll try a test run next week and see how it comes out.
You have sprung an unpleasant surprise on me regarding the hinges.
I did a set of 4 cupboards for an existing cabinet that is in the future dining room using the exact same door design (except for glass insets instead of pine panels) and used standard half overlay hinges. Where the overlays are in the middle is a wide gap so I had no problems. It sounds as though there will not be enough room for the doors to open on standard carcases made of 16mm panels????
What hinges will I need to overcome this problem?
Thanks in advance,
Phill

if you are using blum hinges then lincoln sentry in Malaga w.a (08) 93473888
ask for part blum number 71T9550 sentry number 1-308-71T9550
if you are using hettich osbourne park wa (08)92441210
hettich number 9936-T42 073 913
these numbers only relate to when the hinge is a full overlay

oh my lord, looks just like ours.

I used a heavy heavy heavy duty flyscreen mesh for the infill in the doors, going for that 'meat safe' look. As you can see the kitchen is still a work in progress. The drawer fronts I simply left plain. To try and duplicate the look of the doors made it look too busy and cluttered. The matching handles simply drew everything together. Well I think its not bad for a kitchen that has cost less than $150 for materials and my first attempt. (at following swmbo's instructions which involve vague waving of hands and terminology like.....and put the oodydoodies closer to the whatsits please)

sf

SF, it is very similar. I'll post a pic of the overheads and base unit. The overheads are not varnished yet and no glass fitted. Yours looks really great. I like the handles too.
These are in what is going to be the dining room, and we want them to match the kitchen which adjoins.


Arms, Thanks for the info, but the kitchen provider is supplying HAFELE hinges (included in the quote, 8 X 170Deg & 18 X 110deg)
AS I have never done anything like this before I am not sure of the overlays. I am guessing that because there are only two hinge types, they are supplying two different opening angles (110 & 170 deg) and all must be half overlay.
I looked at the Hafele website and found the hinges in the online cat.
The 110deg hinges are listed, and at the top of the page it states that they fit 16-19mm door thicknesses, but at the bottom of the page there is a table for working out minimum gap, which lists up to 26mm door thickness. Needless to say I'm confused. (see link http://www.hafele.com.au/isapi/online/tchff/tchff.asp)
The table is beyond me also as I have no idea about TABS 7 GAP "F" etc.
There is a corner pantry in the kitchen whic has a 45deg door, but they are not supplying 45deg hinges, so I assume the 110deg hinges work on 45deg openings?

but the kitchen provider is supplying HAFELE hinges

sorry for that but i thought you were doing the project by yourself ,ask the kitchen provider for the measurments