Filling gaps in joints

Not sure if this is part of finishing, but i am making a lamp base which looks a lot like a square vase right now. The joints are sort of large finger joints (40mm) I suppose, and when I put it together there are some pretty obvious gaps in some of the joints. Some are V shape even.

I had tried on another piece with same joints to fill with PVA glue and sawdust (as the back of the glue said) and that looked very bad and rough.

What would be the best way to fill up the gaps? Can this be done with a thickish glue(?) or something else, so the joints just look cleaner when finished.

Thanks

You can use polyurethane glue which foams and expands to fill small gaps and the colour matches honey coloured timbers quite well. For larger gaps you can buy coloured wax sticks that hide gaps very well. You apply the wax after the first coat of finish so you can get a good colour match. For still larger gaps you can mix dyes or oxides with epoxy to make a subtle repair. If the gap is bigger still, you can glue in a piece of matching timber. Sawdust and pva is awful, it will never finish well.

Cheers
Michael

thanks for the reply.

that glue sounds good as pva runs out of the joints and doesnt get applied uniformly. Will try that glue, and then if gaps are still there will find this wax to add.

cheers.

Do not use sawdust. Do not use a filler. All these will simple accentuate the gaps.

Since there is endgrain in the finger joints, hammer in slices of veneer here. Allow the glue to dry, then file or sand flush. End grain against end grain will be invisible.

Regards from Perth

Derek

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Wood filler "in the same color of the wood / Paint it or stain ect "wood filler"

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That is NOT fine woodworking. That is carpentry.

Regards from Perth

Derek

second what Derek said
if you need to, cut a saw kerf to even out the gap, glue in a thin piece of the same timber the box is made from so that you have end grain beside end grain, plane and sand flush


ian

Copy stuff up to all similar locations. Fill gaps with contrasting veneer, and declare "design feature."

Joe

used the polyureathane glue, and it went quite well, though when i sanded it back the glue has left some gaps, sort of like bubbles, and also some larger gaps.

If I was to use the wax to fill the holes now, do I apply it before or after the finish. I am planning to use the minwax wipe on poly.

cheers

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Originally Posted by angad

used the polyureathane glue, and it went quite well, though when i sanded it back the glue has left some gaps, sort of like bubbles, and also some larger gaps.

If I was to use the wax to fill the holes now, do I apply it before or after the finish. I am planning to use the minwax wipe on poly.

cheers

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After a coat of finish. This will allow you to get a closer colour match to the timber.

Cheers
Michael

This blasted sawdust & PVA keeps sticking its uggly little head up......:mad: :mad:
Who keeps circulating this rubbish? :confused:

Can the admin' pit a sticky at the top saying "Don't use sawdust & PVA its terrible"

How about bumper stickers & t shirts.

Would writing letters to all the handyman mags and TV programmes do any good.

AAAAARRRRRGGHH..... sawdust & PVA.... almost anything else is a better filler.

Calms down... crawls back under rock.

cheers

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Originally Posted by joe greiner

Copy stuff up to all similar locations. Fill gaps with contrasting veneer, and declare "design feature."

Joe

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That was my cunning and successful method before you passed on the handy mitre joint tip, Joe! (the one where you do a temporary fit up, and if you've blown it, run the saw kerf through each join so the edges have been effectively cut on either side of the same blade). My mum is getting a jarrah frame with 'contrast feature' for Christmas!:p

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Originally Posted by derekcohen

That is NOT fine woodworking. That is carpentry.
Derek

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I agree with Derek, and I tend to abandon any piece I cut with a poor fit, but it's a matter of degree. My preference is for an exact fit, but I've learned that a minor gap, i.e. less than .05mm can be easily filled if you burnish with a burnishig oil. The slurry quickly fills minor gaps making them virtually impossible to see.

Hi Don and Derek.
Your right Derek, but Don, I couldn't agree more. The use of a burnishing oil is brilliant for fine discrepancies. And, surprise, surprise the colour always matches. Sets pretty rock hard too.
BTW, any luck with Bosch pads on the Festool?

Regards

Rob

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Originally Posted by Flowboy

BTW, any luck with Bosch pads on the Festool?

Regards

Rob

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Not yet - finished my boxes for Christmas & taking a short break from WW.:)

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Originally Posted by soundman

This blasted sawdust & PVA keeps sticking its uggly little head up......:mad: :mad:
Who keeps circulating this rubbish? :confused:

Can the admin' pit a sticky at the top saying "Don't use sawdust & PVA its terrible"

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Im probbably one of a few to blame:o

But i do it, and love it.

I get Timbermate and mix 20% pva (titebond) into it and make a slurry and add fine sawdust back into it to take it back to the original consistancy and its a "Brilliant" gap filler that has strength and polishes well.