Finishing applicator

Hi Everyone,

Did a search for this, but it was difficult to find an answer. Sorry if it has been answered before.

I have a cabinet which i have sanded down to 400g and stained. I would like to finish it off with a nice glossy finish so I got a can of Cabot's Cabothane. First coat (after reading this forum), I thinned it down to 70% and applied. Sanded with 800 wet and dry and applied the second coat as thickly as I could manage without it going everywhere with a good quality brush.

I am a bit dissapointed with the finish (although i could live with it). I can see tiny air bubbles (although I took great care in not introducing any while stirring) and brush strokes. Even though I had the can sitting in hot water before application. At this point, I would like to get some more advice before continuing with the 3rd coat.

So my question is, what is the best applicator for this kind of finish? Or can you guys share your secrets with getting a furniture grade finish? Keeping in mind that yes, the spray option is probably best, but I do not have the workshop or equipment to do so. I just want a nice glossy finish that is hard wearing and easy to maintain. (Preferably easy to apply)


Thanks in advance.

Why did you do the second coat thickly? I always find that the best finish comes from doing every coat as thin as possible and do an extra coat to make sure the overall thickness is OK.

I read here somewhere to apply thickly and let it flat out. What do you use as an applicator?

Personally, I prefer finishes that are wiped on with a soft cloth. Shellac, Minwax wipe one poly, danish oil, etc. In years past, where I have applied finish with a brush, the results are similar to yours. It does help to use a good brush and several thin coats, but still requires light sanding between coats and I could never completely avoid bubbles and other flaws.

Using spray equipment would probably give a better result, and I understand many commercial furniture makers spray. I've never done it, but search these forums as there are quite a few members who are very experienced with this method.

For where you are, I'd recommend sanding until the bubbles have gone, then using either several thin coats with a brush, or several thin coats with a clean cloth (old t shirts usually work well). I'm not familiar with cabothane, but most finishes can be wiped on. Just takes more applications to get the finish you're after.

Hope this helps.

Tex

Yeah... I tinkered with the idea of spraying when researching this. As tempting as it was to give it a go, the initial cost and the lack of suitable work space has ruled this out for me.

I'll give wipe-on method a go when the weather gets a bit warmer on a piece of scrap.

I use a brush - a good bush, don't try to save money here, all brushes are not equal.

Not sure if I've used Cabothane specifically, though I've never had problems with other oil based polyurethane's from Cabot's - though I always use satin or matt, not a big fan of gloss.

Not sure where you read to make the second coat thick - though thining the first coat is always a good idea.

As well as keeping it thin, you need to make sure you are not going over the same area too much, trying to get it perfectly even - it just starts getting tacky and softening the previous coats - so thin even coats, quickly without rushing it.

Hi Minvec,
I don't play with Cabothane, but I have found using 1000 grit or higher, and rubbing while wet helps get bubbles out. I have even used the finish I am working with, and wet rubbing it on the dried finish, then applying another application.

Or as many on this forum have mentioned, Ubeaut EEE might be the go.

Get the Finishers Handbook and keep learning.

Cheers,
conwood

Most paints come in a container needing to be thinned somewhat though ready to use paints are produced. Obviously always read the instructions.

There is a optimum viscosity for the material, too thin it will run and too thick it will not work either ( bubbles being one problem.)

Experience always helps determine the correct consistancy but if in doubt do a test before you attack something that matters. Brush and spray give the best results but like most things a bad spray or brush job could be worse than a good wipe or roller one. Most paints will be made to allow the painter to apply the coating and stay wet long enough for the material to flow out flat without brush or any other marks. So do a test / apply a coat wait a few minutes and see what the paint settles down to.

If its hot or cold the temperature will affect the result, cold- the paint is thicker and flows out slower. Hotter the paint is thinner and flows out faster. If the paint is a real fast drying one (say lacquer) then you spray it or you will be only able to do a small article. Thats why spray guns were made , the paints dried to fast to use brush/roller etc.

Just remember to use the recommended thinner for the paint being used and take it easy, its always easier to add more than get rid of it once its in the mix.