Advice needed --- Poker table

I have just finished the poker table and chip box featured in the Woodsmith mag. I used New Guinea Rosewood on both and finished the box with Scandanavian oil then read in one of the posts on the forum that it is not ideal as a finish oil so before I stuff up the table I need advice on what to use. I originally thought of doing it with oil and then wax and buff it up.

Untill now I've always sprayed with laquer and have only just started using
oil --much better look.

Any help appreciated :confused:

Thanks Arch

can we see some pics of the table and box

Hi Munga,

I've never used Scandanavian oil, but once it's thoroughly dry, a good polish with either EEE or Traditional Wax by the forum sponsor may be good.

cheers
RufflyRustic

Arch,
I am considering atemping to build the table.
did you add the solid top ? How easy was it ?
Any traps. Pictures would be great.

Thanks

Rob

Quote:

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Originally Posted by hingston

Arch,
I am considering atemping to build the table.
did you add the solid top ? How easy was it ?
Any traps. Pictures would be great.

Thanks

Rob

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its an impressive looking table, ive got that mag and i want to make it one day too but ive got enough tables. amazing isnt it that a project can be so immpressive you want to build it even though you dont need it and have nowhere to put it

Thanks Ruffly, I'll try EEE with some wax after it if I can get the stuff I havn't tried Hervey Bay yet but Marybourgh is hopeless to obtain finishing stuff. I only used Scandinavian oil as I cauldn't get Danish oil here and the assured me it was basically the same thing then I read on the forum it is really a clean up oil as for like dusting your furniture.

Stirlo, I havn't got a digital camera yet but I'll see if my son brings his when he comes next week. Good to see a young bloke interested in somethin else other than computer games and skate boards.

Rob, I will post some photo's when I can, I havn't made the top yet but will be doing so at a later date, the rest of it taxed the hell out of my old brain as I have never made anything bigger than small dressers and built ins before, the only part I bauked at was cutting the pedastel pieces at 22.5 Deg. as I only have a triton without the bevel guide so I took the sized and planed pieces to a cabinet maker in town and he only charged me $16.50 to cut them (well worth it) when I glued them up there was only 1mm variation across the flats and when placed in the lathe I had it with only 2mm runout but when I fired her up it tried to toss the lathe all over the room but it didn't come loose (but I nearly did scared the crap out of me) so I ended up dyna bolting the lathe to the floor and wall so as i cauld hold a chisel near it (i'm not a lathe person---yet) I spoke to a turner in town and he said this cauld have been caused by the different densities of Rose Wood. Thje pedastel is 230mm wide.

Cheers Arch

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Munga

I have never made anything bigger than small dressers and built ins before, the only part I bauked at was cutting the pedastel pieces at 22.5 Deg. as I only have a triton without the bevel guide so I took the sized and planed pieces to a cabinet maker in town and he only charged me $16.50 to cut them (well worth it) when I glued them up there was only 1mm variation across the flats and when placed in the lathe I had it with only 2mm runout but when I fired her up it tried to toss the lathe all over the room but it didn't come loose (but I nearly did scared the crap out of me) so I ended up dyna bolting the lathe to the floor and wall so as i cauld hold a chisel near it (i'm not a lathe person---yet) I spoke to a turner in town and he said this cauld have been caused by the different densities of Rose Wood. Thje pedastel is 230mm wide.

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I don't have the mag so don't know what it looks like, but this bit definitely caught my attention. You've turned a segmented table pedestal and consider yourself a beginner at turning? :eek:

I'm another who's hoping to see pictures fairly soon.



BTW, it's not really advisable to dynabolt the lathe to the floor. A good alternative is to weigh down the base of the frame. You could build a box in the bottom of the frame and weigh it down with metal, gravel or similar; I dynabolted my old 'un to a pair of old garden sleepers, as mine was a bit low for me in the first place. (I really should do the same with my new 'un. One day. :o )

When it's really badly out of balance, it's better to let the lathe have some freedom of movement to absorb a portion of the energy from an out-of-balance mass. I'd much rather have the lathe start walking under a big load (and quickly switch it off so I can rebalance) than to have the headshaft shear through from stress and launch the lump across the shed. ;)

You may want to try boiled linseed oil. Gives a good finish when applied with rags and is pretty tough. Just make sure you don't leave the rags in a pile in your shop - these things spontaniously combust:eek:

Martin.

P.S. I have the mag with the poker table in it as well as doug, would love to see what you have created!

Thanks for the advice Martin I've now done it with scandinavian oil to keep the box and table the same and I'll give it a couple of weeks to dry prior to waxing, I'll post some pics as soon as I can reduce the size of the ones I have I downloaded a program to do it and it works but wont let me save it or send to another destination, so I'm waiting till some whiz kid comes around that knows more than me and that means he don't need to know much.

Cheers Arch.