Have just put on the second coat as per instructions and am having problems with wipe off need axpert advice please send PM with phone number so I can ring and talk for advice
Thanks
Peter
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Have just put on the second coat as per instructions and am having problems with wipe off need axpert advice please send PM with phone number so I can ring and talk for advice
Thanks
Peter
How's it going?
Thanks JB
Had a problem in that I was using Briwax Danish oil and their instructions are to wipe off after a few minutes. However ME thinking that all Danish Oils are created Equal. I used the instruction of Organoil Danish and that is to wipe off after 30min to an Hour. There in laid the problem in that I coated all the slate and started to wipe off after 30min and the lint free rags had lint as it was that sticky that the lint just came out of the rags.:eek: :eek: :eek:
Now it was stinking hot with high Humidity. So after trying to wipe off two slates left to dry and went off to work. They are all dry and now I have just used 0000 steel wool, now OK. But I need to know when I paint on again do I just wipe off almost straight away and what finish will I get?
I have had no experence using oil before, so some advice from the axperts out there would not go astray
ARE ALL DANISH OILS CREATED EQUAL:confused: :confused: :confused:
PETER
Danish oil is not really "oil" but more correctly a thinned type of poly (with oil additives) which can be wiped on. It is easier to apply than poly and more durable and quicker drying than oil. Sort of best-of-both-worlds. The formulations vary from one manufacturer to another.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Neil also has a recipe in his 'Polishers Handbook', tung oil and poly but cannot recall the ratio, and I am nowhere near the book.
My experience with Danish oils is that the second and subsequent coats go sticky faster than the first coat on bare wood. In hot conditions i have found they need to be wiped off almost straight away, certainly within 5 minutes. Don't forget that the best way to get things moving again is to put more oil on. Also, try to start and finish smaller areas rather than completing the whole job in one go. What's the project?
Once you have applied the Danish Oil to all necessary surfaces, then begin to wipe off, starting from whence you did begin(yes, I have had some Beck's), leaving practically no trace behind.
If at any stage it become's tacky, simply brush on a little more Oil, and wipe off.
mmmmmmmm.....SPITZEN PILSENER
VON WELT
Love Danish oil particularly Rustins.
Have nearly a full tin of Organoil Danish that is free to a good home, I realy don't like it.
Have you tried Briwax Termite? IMO it is superior to Rustins and is easy to apply. Hot coffee mugs not a problem.
No haven't tried it , will keep my eyes open for some. thanks for the heads up.Quote:
Originally Posted by TassieKiwi
I have been using Cabot's danish oil at $70 for 4 litre's. No real problems.Quote:
Originally Posted by TassieKiwi
How much does Briwax and Rustins cost?
Cabots is very similar to the Briwax, tho' I have yet to use it on a flat surface. I'm into a shellac phase at present, as NZ Rimu looks &&&&hot - oil tends to leave it a bit light. The briwax wasn't cheap - can't remember $$$ sorry. Or is that $orry:D
Den
Firstly I must apologise to JB, Derek, Iain, Martrix, Termite and Tassiekiwi for taking the time to reply to my call for help. It was much appreciated and helped out.
Two months is much to long to reply to people who take the time to answer my call.
VERY SORRY guy's.
Martrix has the words The Procrastinator under his name, that is one word the should be under my name as it is something that I do all the time, hence the time it has taken to reply and the longer it goes on the harder it is to apalogise.
Thanks Guys
Peter
Sorry JB I did not answer you're question, :o it's a cot and it is now finished so will post a picture when I learn how.
Peter
Ps I should have put a lot of these to the last post :o as I am very embarrassed as to the length of time it took.