Spraying Kitchen Finishes

I have been building our new kitchen and am up to the stage where i need to apply a finish for the doors and end panel (made from satin white finish MDF).
I have fitted it all together to make sure it fits and I was going to unassemble it and paint it.

I have a star 770 and compressor but have only sprayed estapol with it.

What I am after is a satin off white colour that i can get to colour matched to my skirting colour that is of good durability and stain resistance.

Does anyone know what cabinet makers use ?

Even just a name of a paint supply shop in brisbane that sells this sort of stuff would be appreciated.


thanks, Steve W

Use automotive lacquer.

Try Mirotone
<TABLE cellPadding=4 width="77%" border=1><TBODY><TR><TD width="68%">Brisbane
Mirotone Pty Ltd
679 Progress Rd, Wacol QLD 4076</TD><TD vAlign=bottom width="32%">Ph (07) 3271 1466
Fax (07) 3271 3757</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
Will have all you want

Good cabinet makers dont use MDF or paint , they use SOLID HARDWOOD and a fine finish .

sorry , you asked .

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 8ball

Good cabinet makers dont use MDF or paint , they use SOLID HARDWOOD and a fine finish .

sorry , you asked .

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Who said there were any GOOD cabinet makers here;) :D :eek:

sometimes the cost of materials dictates what a person uses.
I know when I first started most of my money was going on tools and I always seemed to be cutting up plywood.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 8ball

Good cabinet makers dont use MDF or paint , they use SOLID HARDWOOD and a fine finish .

sorry , you asked .

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I consider myself a pretty good tradesman. Carpenter-Joiner, Cabinetmaker, Shopfitter and Boat joiner. Much as I'd like to do only top end work in solid timber I would like to live a reasonably comfortable lifestyle. Due to lots of different factors (size of market, change in fashions, cheap imported timber furniture, world heritage listing of most of the timber producing country around here etc etc etc) I strive to produce quality work within the constraints of my clients' budgets whilst trying to make a good return on my time and money.

BTW, My wife's grandfather was a cabinetmaker in England. He came from 3 generations of cabinetmakers and antiques dealers in Cheltenham. We've got some pieces that are 100s of years old and they're not all solid hardwood - some are veneered!:eek:

Mick

Steve,
I would suggest a couple of coats of primer, tinted to match the final color. Then a couple of coats of the satin finish and color that you desire. Try to have the surface being sprayed in a horizontal position. (Less sags and runs that way.) I have used a gloss, water based, latex paint in a similar application. It came out great.

FWIW - According to by Brother In Law, who works for a major automotive paint manufacturer, automotive lacquer should not be applied to surfaces that move. (like wood.) Because the automotive lacquer drys hard and will crack when the wood beneath it moves.

Painted a model aircraft with it once, great finish over the nylon wing covering until after the first flight when it then had lovely roadmaps all over. However there is a plasticiser additive to help out.

8Bull I would love to see a photo of this solid hardwood kitchen you made on your own with a fine finish. - sounds fantastic- hmmmm

For me I thought a more practical approach was in order with my wife being a chef and the kitchen actually going to be used, a french polished carcass made of 300 year old indonesian rainforest really isn't a high priority.

I still really need help on this. I was hoping for a reply from someone who is a kithen builder or spray painter, I know i have read a reply on here from one who is a regular forum nut before.

ps. waiting for the photo

Steve

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rrich

Steve,
I would suggest a couple of coats of primer, tinted to match the final color. Then a couple of coats of the satin finish and color that you desire. Try to have the surface being sprayed in a horizontal position. (Less sags and runs that way.) I have used a gloss, water based, latex paint in a similar application. It came out great.

FWIW - According to by Brother In Law, who works for a major automotive paint manufacturer, automotive lacquer should not be applied to surfaces that move. (like wood.) Because the automotive lacquer drys hard and will crack when the wood beneath it moves.

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The kitchen is not made of timber, its melamine faced MDF.
mdf moves a very small amount, probably a lot less movement than the steel panels on a car in the hot sun
The best and easiest finish is auto primer surfacer then a colored lacquer topcoat.
If you want a low sheen furniture finish apply a clear furniture lacquer as a final topcoat.
Sand the melamine with say 120 to 150 wet and dry to give the primer a key to bond to. Don't use a very fine paper on the melamine.

Steve,
I've only ever used automotive (and marine) 2 pack paints for painting car bodies and ply. I'm sure it would be fine for MDF though. I know that Mirotone make a 2 pack specifically for painting on MDF.

Mick

Quote:

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Originally Posted by echnidna

The kitchen is not made of timber, its melamine faced MDF.
mdf moves a very small amount, probably a lot less movement than the steel panels on a car in the hot sun
The best and easiest finish is auto primer surfacer then a colored lacquer topcoat.
If you want a low sheen furniture finish apply a clear furniture lacquer as a final topcoat.
Sand the melamine with say 120 to 150 wet and dry to give the primer a key to bond to. Don't use a very fine paper on the melamine.

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So echnidna, why is the automotive stuff better than a mirotone type product, that is specifically made for timber.
Is a melamine finish similar to metal.

Furniture lacquers are clear, not pigmented.
You want a pigmented finish you can't use furniture lacquer

Quote:

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Originally Posted by echnidna

Furniture lacquers are clear, not pigmented.
You want a pigmented finish you can't use furniture lacquer

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Sorry echnidna, Mirocat IS PIGMENTED not clear
In satin or gloss