Cut & Polish Glass Coat

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9th November 2005, 10:18 AM
normell

Cut & Polish Glass Coat

Can Glasscoat 2 pac clear finish be cut & polished.
I've done a redgum bar top with it, sanded smooth with320 pads on a random ordital sander until it's super flat, and rather than applying another coat, can I cut & polish with automotive paste, to get a high gloss finish :confused:

Normell
9th November 2005, 02:21 PM
Harry72

You can only try, if it doesnt work then recoat it... make sure the cutting compound you use doesnt contain any waxes or silicons!
9th November 2005, 10:05 PM
dai sensei

I'v cut & pollished it with fine sandpaper and EEE without any problems. Just make sure it is completely cured first - I left mine for at least a week.

Cheers
23rd November 2005, 01:39 PM
Timber_finisher

I called Wattyl paints technical dept. with that exact question. They got back to me recommending Clarithane Clear Topcoat. I haven't used it yet because I haven't set up my spraygun (see my first post) I have the data sheet from Wattyl if you want it.
23rd November 2005, 04:33 PM
normell

Quote:

Originally Posted by Timber_finisher

I called Wattyl paints technical dept. with that exact question. They got back to me recommending Clarithane Clear Topcoat. I haven't used it yet because I haven't set up my spraygun (see my first post) I have the data sheet from Wattyl if you want it.

The data sheet might help for future work, but you don't spray Glasscoat, you mix and pour.
The Wattyl product sounds like it may be simular to Mirotone
23rd November 2005, 05:22 PM
Termite

Quote:

Originally Posted by Timber_finisher

I called Wattyl paints technical dept. with that exact question. They got back to me recommending Clarithane Clear Topcoat. I haven't used it yet because I haven't set up my spraygun (see my first post) I have the data sheet from Wattyl if you want it.

They may be just trying to sell you some product. I'd go with EEE myself.
23rd November 2005, 05:30 PM
normell

Quote:

Originally Posted by Termite

They may be just trying to sell you some product. I'd go with EEE myself.

Yeah, but I think he wants a TOPCOAT not a polish
for a finish like a piece of glass go
http://www.newagemultimedia.com/wood...gory6_1.htm#25

from New england Woodturning Supplies at
http://www.newagemultimedia.com/wood...Comm/index.htm

Normell
23rd November 2005, 06:47 PM
Auld Bassoon

Quote:

Originally Posted by normell

Yeah, but I think he wants a TOPCOAT not a polish
for a finish like a piece of glass go
http://www.newagemultimedia.com/wood...gory6_1.htm#25

from New england Woodturning Supplies at
http://www.newagemultimedia.com/wood...Comm/index.htm

Normell

Hi Normell,

Doesn't this finish end up looking as if the wood was synthetic? Timber, especially on furniture, should have a nice sheen, but still look and feel like wood IMO

Cheers!
23rd November 2005, 07:07 PM
normell

Quote:

Originally Posted by Auld Bassoon

Hi Normell,

Doesn't this finish end up looking as if the wood was synthetic? Timber, especially on furniture, should have a nice sheen, but still look and feel like wood IMO

Cheers!

Here's some pics of my bar
http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/foru...Bar-t7331.html
25th November 2005, 01:37 PM
TEEJAY

Quote:

Originally Posted by normell

Here's some pics of my bar
http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/foru...Bar-t7331.html

Normell,

Have looked at the pics of your bar and the top surface has a nice shine to it. I do have one comment as it appears in your photo that you have no finish whatsoever on the underside of the timber slab http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/foru...e=post&id=4910 therefore you will get moisture changes expansion and contration in one side of the slab (unsealed face) and not on the other - for me this is a recipe for distortion. Shouldn't you have a similar seal on each side to maintain the slab and keep it good and straight?

Cheers
25th November 2005, 05:44 PM
normell

Quote:

Originally Posted by TEEJAY

Normell,

Have looked at the pics of your bar and the top surface has a nice shine to it. I do have one comment as it appears in your photo that you have no finish whatsoever on the underside of the timber slab http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/foru...e=post&id=4910 therefore you will get moisture changes expansion and contration in one side of the slab (unsealed face) and not on the other - for me this is a recipe for distortion. Shouldn't you have a similar seal on each side to maintain the slab and keep it good and straight?

Cheers

Good point, will do it on the weekend
26th November 2005, 07:07 PM
Timber_finisher

Quote:

Originally Posted by normell

The data sheet might help for future work, but you don't spray Glasscoat, you mix and pour.
The Wattyl product sounds like it may be simular to Mirotone

Still haven't tried it myself yet, I have been setting up my spraygun etc. Attached is the data sheet. Good luck, let's know if you polished the Glass Coat OK.
26th November 2005, 10:13 PM
normell

Quote:

Originally Posted by Timber_finisher

Still haven't tried it myself yet, I have been setting up my spraygun etc. Attached is the data sheet. Good luck, let's know if you polished the Glass Coat OK.

The finish from polishing the Glasscoat turned out better than I hoped, could not be happier, got some triple E, to finish it off, smooooooooooother than gLASS, with all the wood's texture still there.