A New Tip?

I have been dissapointed with every attempt I have made to date to repair defects (knot holes, woodworm etc.) using sawdust and anything from epoxy to shellac, even 10% PVA in water, but it always turns out close to black with no resemblance to wood in texture or in finishing.
However I recently tried using router shavings in epoxy and PVA, better but no cigar. Had texture, could see some wood colour, but still not great.
Then I remembered (in the middle of the night) that shellac is often used as a barrier and I think that what I had been experiencing up until then was the complete infiltration of the bonding agent with the timber, so early next am I dunked some router waste into shellac, let it dry thoroughly,then mixed with epoxy, not happy, mixed with PVA, bloody messy operation but it worked! Still a bit darker than the native timber, but close, some intersting whirls and swirls. Hard to get it comressed enough to get a smooth finish first time around, but with a little perserverance, add about 20% sawdust, allow overnight to dry thoroughly and with minimum shrinkage, a good result. looks like a knot, or a "good" defect.
Interested in coment.
Jacko

Gidday Jacko:)

If your newly discovered process is half as good as the Pics of the pieces you post here It'd be woth a look...............Any chance of some Pics?????

Check out how Marksey goes about these kinds a fixes......................well worth the effort I reckon!!!!

http://www.diynet.com/diy/ww_other/a...556267,00.html


.....................Hope this helps Jacko!!!!

Regards Lou:D:D:D

Will do New Lou
pity there wont be a "before" as job is half done.
Jacko

Gdday Jacko,

I see you are having some drama with fillers so I thought this very old recipe I’ve got for beaumontage [hard stoping] might just be the thing your looking for.

“ To make a hard stopping,plane up two pieces of wood about 5/8 in. thick, 15 or 18 in. long, and9 in. wide,one of which should be screwed on the bench. Take a cupful of any common shellac, put it in a tin or iron pot [a half-pound mustard or coffee tin will do], add a teaspoonful of powdered resin, a piece of beeswax the size of half a walnut and a teaspoonful of powered lemon chrome. Heat till the whole is melted, stir with a stick to properly mix, and pour a little of the melted composition on the fixed board. Then gather it up by means of a scraper or knife, roll out between the hands, and while still plastic roll into sticks between the two boards by passing the uppermost or loose to and fro. If the loose board is made warm by keeping it before the fire when not in use, it gives a better result. Care must be taken not to get the composition to hot, as it spoils by boiling. It will require practice before perfectly round sticks can be made.

Proceed to make sticks of stopping in the following way; Pour sufficient of the mixture to make two sticks of this colour; then add a little yellow ochre, and make two more; these will give two shades that will do nicely for oak. Add a little brown umber, warm up again, and roll out two more; these will do for light walnut. Add a little more umber and make sticks for dark walnut; add Venetian red for mahogany, and a little black for rosewood, and finally finish up with black for ebony. By varying the amount of dry colours any number of shades can be obtained, and it will be found convenient to make the colours in the order suggested. If the darker shades are made first it will be found difficult to obtain the lighter ones, owing to the dark colours clinging to the sides of the pot.

It will be necessary to select stopping of the colour which the article is intended to be when finished; for the stopping itself cannot be stained after it is in the wood.”

Jacko as you can see from the script, it is coming from a very old book; the last edition was printed in 1923, first printed in 1897. I think some of us old woodworkers suffer under the illusion that if it’s old it must be good?? I don’t use the two pieces of wood mentioned, I just take a table spoonful out on to a smooth service and use a paint scraper to stop it sticking until its cool enough to handle and just roll it between my hands, hot potato fashion. Slow heat is the key though, if it gets to hot it is just unworkable. The colours used are the same as those used by bricklayers. My favourite shop here in Brisbane which sells all that gear for furniture restoration stocks a lot of different colours, they also sell this stuff called ROSEN, in bags, it looks like lumps of rock, I crush this up and use instead of resin, it works fine, I think they are the same thing. A bag would last forever so I only bought half a bag, which suited me being financially challenged and all…btw lemon chrome which I had never heard of until I seen it along side all the other colours, yes in my favourite shop.

I’m sorry for being a bit long winded, but I hope you find this interesting, all you have to do now is practise colour matching, as for myself I’m hopeless at it….

See ya

Damo. p.s. I just use an electrical soldering iron to apply.