Black finish for table legs

I'm making a hall table that has stained back legs, and the plan suggests ebonizing with analine dye then finish with oil and varnish mix. I've not tried staining, so am considering whether F & W Japan Black Stain and Varnish would be as good. I've tried a sample and its thick and difficult to get even brush coats without buildup along edges etc. So I was wondering whether I could dilute the F&W with turps, maybe 10%, and apply with a cloth and wipe excess - probably need several coats - then finish with a wipe-on poly like MinWax. Or is this likely to be inferior to the analine dye then oil/varnish finish? Thanks.

I am not able to comment on the F&W Japan Black Stain and Varnish so not able to answer that part of the question.

As to ebonising I have use a mixture of steel wool dissolved in vinegar. The basic steps are put the steel wool in a jar and add vinegar to completely cover the steel wool. Leave for a few days until the steel wool dissolves, then strain the liquid to get rid of any lumps that might be left. Apply to the wood. It works best when you have wood that contains more tanning or you can add some by coating the wood with a strong brew of tea(about 4 tea bags) and after that dries apply the solution.

:whs:

fletty

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Originally Posted by CharlieZ

I'm making a hall table that has stained back legs, and the plan suggests ebonizing with analine dye then finish with oil and varnish mix. I've not tried staining, so am considering whether F & W Japan Black Stain and Varnish would be as good. I've tried a sample and its thick and difficult to get even brush coats without buildup along edges etc. So I was wondering whether I could dilute the F&W with turps, maybe 10%, and apply with a cloth and wipe excess - probably need several coats - then finish with a wipe-on poly like MinWax. Or is this likely to be inferior to the analine dye then oil/varnish finish? Thanks.

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I hope this is not too late.

I strongly suggest you use the aniline dye. Followed by the oil/varnish mix or wipe on poly.
Black Japan is more like a paint than a dye. It would coat rather than colour your table legs, concealing the grain and texture.

BTW Danish Oil is an oil/varnish mix.

Aniline dyes have been around for the last 160 years, so if there were any significant problems with their ability to colour stuff I'm sure we'd all know.

The suggested dye should be available from your nearest hardware store or Green shed https://www.bunnings.com.au/feast-wa...stain_p1569728
quoting the blurb ...

Prooftint is a unique, fast drying, spirit based stain that allows the full clarity of the timber grain to show through after staining.
It can be used neat to achieve a deep, rich colour or diluted with Prooftint Colour Reducer to achieve lighter shades, making it ideal for colour matching to existing colour schemes or repairing scratches and damage to stained timber.

• Deeply penetrates timber
  
• Enhances the timber grain

the steel wool / vinegar (citric acid) mix relies on the reaction between iron and tannin in the wood to achieve their effect. Depending upon the level of tannin in the wood, the colour produced can be more brown than black.