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I've been thinking of getting a Swansdown mop sinse the Sydney show.
My understanding is that it's used to buff up wax.
Could it also be used to buff up hard burnishing oil 24hrs after final finish? And is there any point using it on a Danish oil finish, 24 hrs after the last coat to give it a smoother finish?
Andy
Swansdown mop. Mostly for use with EEE-Ultra Shine and wax finishes.
Organoil should be applied and treated exactly as per their instructions and I'm pretty sure that it doesn't say to buff it using a buff or mop. Same with Danish oil most of which are a watered down polyurethane (plastic) and if buffed too much or too hard may melt like plastic. Polyurethane is much worse than Danish for melting but both will work well if the buff is used on a slow speed.
However once the oils have finished off-gassing (there is no longer any smell from the oil and which could take from weeks to months) you can use the buff with EEE or a wax to bring up a brighter finish if required.
Using wax over an oil finish before it finishes off-gassing will see the wax stay soft and will stop the oil from fully polymerising in the timber which in turn will lead to a pretty ordinary finish which may even have to be stripped and re done.
Hope this is of some help.
Cheers - Neil :U
Thanks Neil - organoils hard burnishing oil instructions say to buff 24 hours after. So it should be ok to use the mop?
Also is there a way of changing the title? - just a brain fart with the wording.
What exactly does Organoil say to buff with?
Bearing in mind that I've already said "follow Organoil's instructions to the letter." or something similar.
This is straight from their websiteQuote:
Originally Posted by ubeaut
Step 4
To achieve the “ultimate” with an oil finish it is necessary to leave for 24 to 48 hours and then power buff with lambswool or lint free cloth.
I'm wondering if this is just for wet sanding or for normal Danish oil aswell? Has anyone buffed up there Danish oil finish as mentioned above?
Take no notice of step 4 as its codswollop.Quote:
Originally Posted by groeneaj
Wet sanding with some Wattyl Scandinavian oil (the best oil for wet sanding/buffing by a mile) going up through the grits from 600 to 2000 or even 4000# with a Festool Platin disc for the ROS will give a finish just as good if not better in no time flat. Do a search by LGS on his method. Also, stay away from wax, as its unnecessary, a pain in the bum and adds no real benefit to your final finish.
Ok,
I just got a swansdown mop to buff up my oil finishes and waxes etc.
I am finding it hard to find any information on the net about these. I'm trying to find the following answers.
- How to look after them?
- I read they need to be worn in when first used, how is this done? Run it on sandpaper?
- I don't have an attachment with mind. I intend to use it on a corded drill, would just a bolt with a washer on it attached to a drill be ok?
- And when using do you with the grain?
Any other hints or tips would be great:D
Andy :2tsup:
Did you get a Ubeaut one? If so the instructions are inside.
If not go here: SWANSDOWN MOPS - The ultimate buff for wax finishes
Thanks ,
Thanks for that mate.
Just a couple of questions, I have never heard of 16 grit - Is that just a very coarse grit? Would bunnings stock it?
Then all I do is run the mop on the 16 grit until all the fluff comes off?
Do I clean the mop after use, and if so how is this done?
Andy
No, leave the wax on. So far as I do and have known, just keep the mop in a sealed plastic bag. I'm about to pull mine out tomorrow night :2tsup: and make some stuff real shiny. :cool:Quote:
Originally Posted by groeneaj
I ended up using some 40 grit, you'll end up looking like someone who's been feathered. :U
:aro-u:What Waldo said.
Thanks for the help Gents :2tsup:
If you use a Danish Oil and after it's hardened you want some more sheen, by all means apply some wax sparingly and buff with the Mop. Ubeaut Trad Wax is easier to use than other products in my experience, though Gilly Stephenson's Cabinet Makers Wax is also good stuff.