Oil over Mirotone?

Hi All,


I'm building a large coffee table with some boards I had milled out of a huge peppermint gum that was in my backyard many years ago.


I want a durable stain-resistant finish with an oiled look. In the past I've achieved this by brushing on a few coats of Estapol, cutting back with 400 wet and dry, then rubbing in Feast Watson Fine Buffing Oil with 0000 steel wool. This gives a silky smooth finish with much more depth than I've been able to achieve using oil alone.


This time I'd like to use the same technique but substituting Mirotone precat lacquer for the polyurethane. I've got about 3L of high gloss left over from a guitar I just built. The Mirotone is a dream to use. I can apply 3 coats in half a day. This time of year in Melbourne it will take at least 3 days to do that with polyurethane. Plus I'd much rather spray than brush.


The only thing I'm not sure about is how the Mirotone will go with an oil finish on it. It's a very tough finish and I don't think it will be a problem, but I thought I'd see if anyone on the forum has any thoughts.


Regards.

How would oil penetrate through the lacquer to the wood through a film finish? I somehow doubt this would work but I have never used lacquer except on cars.

Have you thought about using a wiping poly? I use Minwax full gloss (there is a semi-gloss too but I prefer the gloss) and the finish is just right, IMO. I just wipe it on (three coats is enough) with a cloth. It is as close to foolproof as it can get.

Hell, no, either use lacquer or use oil, don't mix the finish.

Mixing of 2 different building finishes leads to 2 layers of different flexibility that can crack, haze or peel.


Lacquers are not the best for coffee tables although they are more durable than oil finishes but neither are as durable as a poly finish.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by markharrison

How would oil penetrate through the lacquer to the wood through a film finish?

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Mark,
It's not meant to penetrate through to the wood. Rubbing the oil in with the 0000 steel wool burnishes the surface of the PU leaving a smooth satin finish. This is how FW recommend doing it.

I have done this a number of times with estapol & buffing oil. It works a treat. I'm just wondering whether it will work with Mirotone.

Rgds,
jack

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Cruzi

Mixing of 2 different building finishes leads to 2 layers of different flexibility that can crack, haze or peel.

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Hi Cruzi,
the oil isn't built up on the surface. As I metioned in my post to Mark, it is used to burnish or degloss the PU. After you've applied the buffing oil you leave it for 10 minutes then wipe it off with a rag. There's almost no oil left on the surface. You polish it the next day and it's done.

The weather's nice today. I might shoot a few coats of Mirotone onto a scrap of wood and do a trial. If it doesn't work I might try the Minwax wipe-on poly as Mark suggested.

Rgds,
Chris

Okay. I get it now. Don't see why it shouldn't work, now that I understand what you're doing. That said, I've never tried anything so sophisticated.

What sort of oil do you use?

How about letting the lacquer cure then hitting it with wax?

The person who taught me about lacquers has worked with them for 40 plus years and says to never ever use 2 different finishes on same piece.

Sure you can get a short term good looking finish, but it is not a good long term solution.

The FW buffing oil is carnuba and bee's wax in a hardening oil and solvent carrier, so it's more or less wax...

As you say, that's how FW recommends using it however you might just give the technical line a ring and check re the lacquer or try it on sample.

As an alternative method of application you can use a 50% dilution of buffing oil in turps and flow it on with a rag. Don't buff it after 10 mins, let it dry for 24 hrs and then buff. Buffing after 10min can drag a lot of lint out of the rag... and make a mess of it.

Cheers
Michael

Hi Michael,
thanks for the info. I sprayed 2 coats of lacquer on an offcut today. I'll let it harden for a cupla days and try the buffing oil on it. I'll also try your technique using the turps at 50% and see how the two compare.
Rgds,
Jack

Wax over lacquer works a treat, but let the lacquer cure, normal conditions about a week, longer this time of year.