Ryobi Whipper Snipper help

I have a Ryobi Whipper Snipper that has been having trouble. It will rev for a few seconds and then die, as if it is out of fuel, even though the tank is full. So far I have replaced the fuel lines (they were brittle and splitting), replaced the fuel filter (it was disintegrating), and cleaned out the fuel filter screen in the carby (it was filled with what looks suspiciously like particles of fuel filter). The diaphragms in the carby look OK. The think still won't run properly. I suspect that some of the junk I cleaned from the filter screen may have gone through it (it was really choked up). From what I understand then the next step is to remove the mixture needles and clean out in there. Problem is that these needles have plastic caps on them which only allow 3/4 of a turn of movement. I have tried to remove these caps by levering and pulling them off - with a fair bit of force, and they won't come. Does anyone know the trick to getting them off (or have ideas of how to clean out the mixture needle seats without removing the needles?)

Thanks

Peter

Can't help with your questions - sorry - however have had similar problems -

"It will rev for a few seconds and then die, as if it is out of fuel, even though the tank is full."

The solution to my problem was "new" fuel - the fuel I had was too old - mixed up a fresh batch using fresh fuel and no longer have the problem nor has it resurfaced.

The above may not be the solution to your problem but it certainly would be good to eliminate it.

Regards,
Bob

I already tried the new fuel thing, and brand new 2-stroke oil as well. That was about the first thing I tried, and no change in behaviour.

Peter

I would put a new plug in it first. Plugs can do funny things. Next would be the mixture screws, the slightest change in fuel mixture will vary the running. If you need any parts I have some here. We use them in RC boats and have collected a heap over the years.
The early ones would allow you to see and turn the screws easy, but I think with the emission regulations they covered them up to stop people playing with them.
Dave

I wondered about the plug - I didn't ever replace it because it is definitely getting spark. I can hear the engine igniting properly each stroke until it runs out of fueI probably should take a look at it though - it's an easy enough thing to do.

Dave, do you know how to remove the plastic caps from the mixture screws? That is precisely the problem I have. I have read a few places to just pull them off with pliers, but I gave them a pretty good tug withj no result. I don't want to give it too much in case I damage the screws. I could cut them off I suppose. I was hoping I'd be able to reuse them though.

Peter

Just went down the back to grab one. Is this the one you have?
Dave

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dave J

Just went down the back to grab one. Is this the one you have?
Dave

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It's a bit of a fuzzy picture, but it looks about right - certainly those mixture screws look right - there is a plastic sheath that goes down over both of them and can easily be pulled off - just like in your photo. The controls themselves each then have the black and white caps on them with flanges sticking out the side which mean they can only be turned a little bit. I want to be able to take those plastic caps off. that way I will be able to remove the screws completely. The Walbro service manual recommends removing the needles and then cleaning out the seat area with carby cleaner in a pressurised can to dislodge any built up grot. That's what I'm trying to do. Unfortunately said service manual doesn't say how to get the plastic caps off.

Thanks

Peter

I just broke away the plastic and have the picture below of it. If you dont want to brake it you can fill/cut the ears on each one off so they will rotate right around. I realy dont think it matters to brake them off.
Dave

Cool - that's what I'll do then. Looking at what the screws look like underneath they look like it's designed so that the caps can't be removed in one piece. Thanks for your help.

Peter

Sometimes it better to be cautious. I wasn't worried about this one because I have a few of them. As it turned out nothing was damaged anyway. Just remember you can just file the ears off them, that way you can put the cap back on it.It's up to you.
Dave

Have you checked the breather hole in the fuel cap.
If it is blocked it will create a vacuum in the tank and that will cause it to run awhile and then die.

Good luck. :rolleyes:
Keith

been there done this. You will find the needle that regulates the fuel flow fits on a cup mounted on the diapham. This diapham must be taught so that the needle vibrates by the vacuum crated by the stroke of the piston. If the diaphram becomes floppy the machine actually floods and is a bitch to start. If you suceed in starting it, it runs fast and cuts out. From memory, they wanted to sell me a new carby. I bought a new machine for roughly the price they quoted,

Peter, I was having the same problem with mine. Tried most of the things suggested here, but in the end found that the easiest solution was to replace it with a new Honda 4 stroke.

Since then, I have not had any trouble. :D

Hadn't thought of the fuel cap breather. I'll check that too. rrobor - it starts really easily - normally first pull. It just won't then keep running. If what I am doing now doesn't work, then I know you can get replacement diaphragm kits, so that would be the next thing I'd do. That would pretty much then be a complete carby rebuild. Hope it doesn't come to that, but I don't think it's too expensive to do that - it's more just the time and effort.

If all else fails then a new one will be on the cards, but hopefully I can get this licked.

Thanks all

Peter

Hi Peter<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
If there is any parts you need, I can send them to you, it will only cost you the price of the postage.
About the fuel cap, try starting it with out it on, and see if it makes a difference.
Dave