Protecting non-native wood outdoors

We brought an antique table made in Eastern Canada to Australia with us. I think it might be walnut. It spent several years in British Columbia, a damp climate, but it was indoors in the usual heated environment which amounts to a dry climate. Now we have it on a covered verandah in SE Queensland where the climate can be hot and dry or quite humid. The top is composed of boards about 3" wide. It only gets a bit of morning sun then is in shade for the rest of the day. I want to finish it with a finish that will protect it from sunlight, humidity, and periods of hot dry weather, marks from drink glasses and the occasional water drops if a storm blows rain sideways onto the verandah. It will never be drenched. I also want to preserve the look of the wood and don't want to encase it in shiny, bombproof finish. A satin finish would be ideal. I found a recipe on the 'net for a mixture of spar varnish, mineral spirits and linseed oil and wonder what you'd think of that. I also found an ad for hard shellac but from what I read here it's not for amateurs.

It has had three years in a shed to acclimatise to the weather here. I know I have to finish the underside as well to protect it from warping. I'm reluctant to just ask at a supplier until I know more about it as they usually promote what they carry.

I've used Feast & Watson's Satinproof before, cut and polished with steel wool and beeswax but in an interior application and not on a table surface.
I 'd like a product that will handle UV and protect the table from drink rings and food stains. I'd never put anything hot on it. Look forward to help with this question, thanks.

There is no clear finish that will protect wood out doors long term.....point blank end story.

Even the best marine clear finishes degrade over time and require stripping and reapplication.

If you want serious protection for timber out doors it has to be opaque... but that isn't the look you are after.

so you are left with two choices...go with some sort of bright clear finish...probably from the marine market...that will provide some protection ( for a couple of years)

or

go with some sort of oil bassed product that will require frequent re application ..say every couple of months.

the advantage of the second is that you wont need to strip the item every time you want to reapply.

the product you speak about could be called "danish oil"... a brew of some sort of varnish and oil....yeh great inside....... but cutting a resin with oil compromises the performance of the resin and thus its durability.


I'd go some sort of oil...and cover the table when not in use to keep the sun and rain off.


cheers

Thank you very much, Soundman. Will an oil based finish protect against drink rings? I don't mind giving it a recoat and buff every couple of months if it will provide adequate protection. As you know, in this climate condensation causes drink coasters to stick to the bottom of the glass and drop off into your gazpacho, or lap. I don't really want to use a cover as we pop out there for breakfast, lunch and dinner and it would be a nuisance.

Thanks, Jenny

What you need is coasters that don't stick to the bottom of the glass.

Um... a table cloth will do wonders.

cheers

Right now we use place mats. I will have to do something about non-stick coasters, perhaps varnish some of those rice cake things from the grocery shop? They're not edible anyway. A table cloth will again hide the wood and have to be nailed down, given the gale force winds that spring up out of nowhere.

You didn't say if an oiled finish will give temporary protection against food and drink?

I do appreciate your advice. thank you very much.
Cheers, Jenny:)

Ine thing that works very well for coasters is very small teracota pot saucers.....you do beed to seal the bottom though.

cheers

That's interesting. Is it the weight of the 'coaster' that stops them lifting with the glass or is it because they are porous? I haven't see them for sale without the pots but then I haven't looked for them. Thanks again Soundman.

its both.

cheers

Thanks again.Cheers, Jenny

That's just the bottom side that needs to be sealed,right? J=^..^=