WOODWORKING QUIZ for 30 AUG 04
Good Evening Friends,
Ever wish you had a frame or platform you could lay sheet goods on while you are cutting pieces with your circular saw and when finished, just put it away?
How would you go about making a KD frame that would work for you?
Respectfully,
P.S. When something is clear as mud, means that it is not clear at all and one could get pretty darned lost in it. As far as the other I won't touch that one with a ten foot pole.
WOODWORKING QUIZ ANSWER for 30 AUG 04
Good Morning Friends,
Biting midge, you have the exact one that is printed in the Wood Magazine and also the one that the quiz was about.
Congratulations.
Respectfully,
It gives me great pleasure!!
Sturdee, MarkV
The details of my table are below, but also check out the Fine WoodWorking Article - A circular saw in the cabinet shop which has an almost identical table in it. After reading that article I built my straight edges and had a life changing experience!! :D
Overall dimension is 2200 x 930 and weight is 13kg. The light weight is a big advantage in moving it around, and even though the structure is improbably light, the top has about a 6mm sag in it after a LOT of heavy work and abuse. Keeping the length at 2200 means it can be stored on end in room with a normal ceiling height, and will carry a 2400 x 1200 sheet of anything with minimal overhang.
Using it is dead simple, particularly cutting sheet material or docking anything. Set the saw to a few mm thicker than the material and cut through the top. The sacrificial structure will last for years!
The only change I would make if I was to rebuild it (which I won't until it falls apart) is that I would mount the legs on two 90 x45 stringers (laid flat) for the full length of the underside. This would take most of the flex out of it.
My table features legs from Bunnies (about $20 and the only bit that I paid for).
The timber pieces are 45 x 45's cut from warped or damaged pine studs scrounged from building sites. The cross pieces are at 300 centres.
Assembly was dead easy, I used liquid nails in all the joints because it sort of kept stuff together while I screwed in a couple of gyprock screws.
Lay it out upside down on a flat piece of floor and brace it against a wall as you screw. This will ensure that the table top is in one plane as you screw it together.
Hopefully between the article above and the pics attached you'll have enough info...if not get back to me!
Pics show:
1) Sophisticated joinery techniques employed :D. Note saw cuts typical of the whole top!
2) Top view. I apologise for the contrast in the photo..will try harder in future, but it tells the story.
3) Bottom view of the fixing of the legs. Just a couple of bits of scrap and screws.
Cheers,
P :D