Printable View
I've had good results from a mixture made from beeswax, raw oil and turpentine.
The turps dissolves the wax without being heated then I add the raw oil. I brush on the mixture and use steel wool between coats.
This seems to work OK.
Is it better to use boiled oil? Someone says that it's the way to go, but I don't know.
Has anyone any advice or comments?
Regards,
KevinB
Basically, Raw Linseed never really quite dries... even though it may soak into the wood and feel dry.
BLO has metallic driers added, so it dries much faster. (The name is more of a historical hangover than any reflection on how it's made now.)
It's inexpensive and has a multitude of uses, so the most practical answer is to buy some and try it for yourself. :)
That's exactly what I needed to know.
And yes, I've waited weeks for my raw-oil mixtures to dry.
Thanks again Andy,
KevinB
I researched this subject for years because I was interested in gun stock finishing.
It is a subject shrouded in mystery and myth which often leads you up the path to Tru-Oil which could never have been a more unfortunate name if they had deliberately tried . Maybe Tru-Varnish could have been more apt.
Gunstocks are now in the hands of Varnish sprayers and Poly sprayers Krieghoffs being an example of shiny spray finish .
But traditional oil finishes still have their admirers .
The version that I used was with pine tree turps and raw linseed oil. I used it on gun stocks hot in summer to enable it to soak in and after many coats had a really nice satin finish that was waterproof and resisted marking.Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinB
Raw linseed oil does get polymerized but it will take weeks. BLO is already polymerized and it dries in days. Once it's dried, the pores in your gun stock is sealed so the penetrating power of BLO is quite limited. On the other hand, Raw oil keeps getting absorbed over time to produced a mildly water resistant surface.