Help please with damaged tabletop

[terriqld]

Hi, I recently spilled some paint stripper on my beautiful wooden table! It now has two marks 2'x4" where the polyurethane has been eaten away down to the bare wood. Is it possible to restore this without totally resanding and recoating? thanks for any help you guys. Last time I was in this forum your advice was terrific I recall.
Terri :)

[endgrain]

should be fine if you use the same type varnish. you have tested it? prep it first, sand, then build it up.
will also depend on the type of timber, quite often stripper will discolour or bleach the fibres.
hard to access properly without seeing it, a clear photo wood be helpful :)
whats a bewdiful wooden table doing with polyurethane on it in the first place?

[terriqld]

Hi...Thanks endgrain, will try and post a pic to show you tonight...Terri:U

[toolbagsPLUS]

Terriqld, Hi,

Just to add to "endgrains" good advice, once finished I would suggest rubbing back the whole table top with 600 or 800 (Wet & Dry) then buff the lot to even out the gloss factor and blend old and new finish together.

Same question "what's a beautiful table doing with mud on it?":o

Just so I don't get my head bitten off by some others, yeah yeah I know everything has it's place and usefulness.:roll:

All the best with the repairs.


Cheers


Steve

[munruben]

You sure its poly finish on the table top? Good luck with your restoration

[terriqld]

Here is the link to the pictures of my table and the damaged bits...hope this works. Terri :U.
PS Yes it is poly...long sad story why. Welcome your comments after viewing.



http://picasaweb.google.com/dat56zoo/Woodwork?authkey=Gv1sRgCJvGxaOh18_RWg&feat=directlink

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Is it possible to restore this without totally resanding and recoating?

It's possible, with a lot of skill and a modicum of luck. Realistically, resanding/refinishing is the more practical option.

PolyU makes for a highly durable finish, but once it goes... :no:

[terriqld]

Hi again guys,
Could you please tell me what was meant by prep first, or does that imply sanding? I know there is a prepcoat before painting but is there also one for a poly...if so I wasnt aware of it. Also I believe Bunnings sell a 2 pac clear gloss...would that suit this job? Finally, I noticed that where the bare wood now meets the poly on my table there is a yellowish ring where the layers of the poly can be seen. Will these blend into the new coats or is there anything I should do to perhaps make the blending less obvious? Thanks again guys..as you can see by questions, complete newby here and I think the "bit of luck" necessary as suggested is probably a huge understatement.
Terri:rolleyes:

[RStocker]

I have been refinishing furnite for 45 years. You have a very hard touch up repair to make even for an expert.

I never sand anything that I am refinishing unless I have a repair and need to get the wood smooth.

Your best bet is to take paint stripper and strip the top of the table. If you sand you rase the wood and you take out the color and sealer that is in the wood. This makes it much harder to get the color back to match the rest of the table.

Matching color takes a lot of skill. I have a masters in art and it has taken me years to learn how to match color. With computers now they can get a very close match at the paint store. Not sure if you have paint stores there with computer matching.

I would brush on the stain and wipe it down. I keep my old wiping rags. They get the color in them and in the end will help you blend in spots. If your damaged area is lighter after stripping. blend that area in to match the rest of the stripped table. Leave it dry for 24 hours between stain layers. Then go back and keep staining to match. I only use oil base stanes. Water is hard to work with and never comes out right.

Many times I take laquer thiner and put stain in the thiner. I spray the color on. It comes out very smooth and is much easier to make match the rest of the furniture. The laquer evaporates. You will need a good spray gun. The cheap ones form China just do not work.

Sorry you sopiled your table. I have had to refinish things more than once to get them to match. I use Deft laquer. It is self leveling and you can brush it on. It is expensive but there is no other laquer that is in its league. Not sure if you can get it there..

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Finally, I noticed that where the bare wood now meets the poly on my table there is a yellowish ring where the layers of the poly can be seen. Will these blend into the new coats or is there anything I should do to perhaps make the blending less obvious?

That's probably the poly lifting off the surface. :C Again, it's fixable but it's fiddly work even for an expert. Most likely any patch you do will be immediately obvious at a glance, which is why we all suggest removing the rest and refinishing.

Personally I'd sand, but RStocker (the above post) makes some good points and you did say that the holes were eaten by paint stripper in the first place... so you know it'll remove it. :wink:


Thanks again guys..as you can see by questions, complete newby here and I think the "bit of luck" necessary as suggested is probably a huge understatement.

Yeah, it's not something one can rely on... but it's always nice to have. :D