View Full Version : what would you seal kwila with to accept a water based stain ?
JDarvall
27th March 2009, 10:39 PM
shellac ? ....or a sanding sealer ?
thanks
Jake
tea lady
27th March 2009, 10:52 PM
:hmm: I thought you wet it down evenly with water so that it will stain evenly. Unless its end grain then maybe use sanding sealer. (Not that I'm an expert. Just read books and mags. :shrug: I have only used water based stain on small things and not even Kwilla. )
Cruzi
27th March 2009, 10:57 PM
????
Why stain kwila, it is a light golden brown colour when first cut and sanded but it turns a very dark brown in just a few months:?
chippy 71
27th March 2009, 11:00 PM
shellac ? ....or a sanding sealer ?
thanks
Jake
This may sound a silly question but, considering the colour and grain of Kwila, why would you stain it?
I would have thought a clear finish would would look the best!
Colin.
Honorary Bloke
27th March 2009, 11:08 PM
Jake,
I reckon I would use de-waxed shellac, which is sold around here as sanding sealer. But either will work. Will need to use something if you have used stearated sandpaper or you will get the fish eyes, as you know.
Note to others: Even if he used a water-based clear coat, he would need to seal it if it had stearates on it, so the question is legitimate regardless of his intention.
tea lady
27th March 2009, 11:17 PM
Jake,
I reckon I would use de-waxed shellac, which is sold around here as sanding sealer. But either will work. Will need to use something if you have used stearated sandpaper or you will get the fish eyes, as you know. Having read ubeauts instructions he says to dilute white shellac with metho to make sanding sealer.
Note to others: Even if he used a water-based clear coat, he would need to seal it if it had stearates on it, so the question is legitimate regardless of his intention. Kwill/Murbu bleeds black everywhere doesn't it. So I guess sealing is kinda a good idea.
chippy 71
27th March 2009, 11:38 PM
Jake,
I reckon I would use de-waxed shellac, which is sold around here as sanding sealer. But either will work. Will need to use something if you have used stearated sandpaper or you will get the fish eyes, as you know.
Note to others: Even if he used a water-based clear coat, he would need to seal it if it had stearates on it, so the question is legitimate regardless of his intention.
The original question was, "What would you seal Kwila with to accept a water based stain?"
I was not querying the sealing of the Kwila, I was asking why, considering the colour and grain, would you stain it?
Colin.
JDarvall
28th March 2009, 05:48 AM
sorry , I probably should describe it better.
I'm making a couple of windsor chairs. Different timbers for different parts of the chair. And the legs happen to be kwila this time around, because its hardwood and I got offcuts of it that fit the length right.. But both chairs will be painted with black milk paint.
I made a small stool earlier using kwila. And I noticed the paint didn't take too it. It did in places, but others it seemed like it didn't want to stick. So thats why I'm concerned, since its being an oily sort of timber.
I know it sounds odd painting a chair, but I think it look a lot worse if I left it natural with a pine seat and kwila legs. mismatched timbers look a bit odd for me, and its traditional to paint them anyway.
sounds like a should just try shellac. thanks.
Harry72
28th March 2009, 08:15 AM
Jake try the dye before sealing, you want the water to penetrate not sit on the surface.
If your having trouble getting paint to stick too oily wood try wiping it down with some dewaxer.
JDarvall
28th March 2009, 08:32 AM
thanks Harry.
Jake try the dye before sealing, you want the water to penetrate not sit on the surface.
yep. thats whats happened with the stool I think.
If your having trouble getting paint to stick too oily wood try wiping it down with some dewaxer.
what kind of de-waxer would you recommend? I really should work on my finishing skills.
Cruzi
28th March 2009, 09:45 AM
Acetone also works to remove oily residue on timbers, you can buy Septone de-waxer at Super Cheap Auto.
JDarvall
28th March 2009, 09:19 PM
Ta Cruzi. I've got some acetone. will give that a go.
Harry72
1st April 2009, 08:45 PM
Any good yet?
JDarvall
2nd April 2009, 07:55 AM
haven't done it yet. today sometime.
Bleedin Thumb
2nd April 2009, 10:48 AM
Jake, the Flood companies SpaNDeck system does that. Use the power lift and then the dekswood cleaner.
That will get rid of the oils and tannins enough to get an even stain.
Skew ChiDAMN!!
2nd April 2009, 04:52 PM
Just wondering... why use a water-based stain? 'Cos that's what you got?
For an oily wood, wouldn't a spirit-based stain be better? Should still wipe the job down with thinners/acetone first, though.
(You can still buy them, can't you? FWIW, I don't mean these 'orrible stain/ finsh combos that seem to be popular now... just a plain ol' spirits-based stain.)
JDarvall
2nd April 2009, 07:46 PM
thanks BT.
Just wondering... why use a water-based stain? 'Cos that's what you got?
its just milk paint. I'm doing the whole traditional windsor chair thing. just mix milk , lime and black pigment. Found it look good rubbed back on red timbers with steel wool.
I'm a real finishing idiot really skew. struggle with all the names.
basically I made a kwila stool and I noticed it didn't take to it very well. particularily noticed when I rubbed back with the steel wool. came off too quick, unlike over other timbers.
Skew ChiDAMN!!
2nd April 2009, 11:57 PM
its just milk paint. I'm doing the whole traditional windsor chair thing. just mix milk , lime and black pigment. Found it look good rubbed back on red timbers with steel wool.
I'm a real finishing idiot really skew. struggle with all the names.
basically I made a kwila stool and I noticed it didn't take to it very well. particularily noticed when I rubbed back with the steel wool. came off too quick, unlike over other timbers.
Ahhh... that makes sense. I hope the acetone works for you! :fingerscrossed: