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Superbunny
9th March 2009, 09:47 PM
Anyone tried Sam's recipe to finish a project. Mix 1/3 linseed oil, 1/3 boiled tung oil and 1/3 satin urathane, four coats and then Finish with a mix of 1/2 linseed oil, 1/2 tung oil and some beeswax mixed in, apply 2 coats. What were your results, would you recommened it?:D:D

SB

Wongo
9th March 2009, 10:58 PM
That is the finish I have been using for the past 2 years. I use it for most of my projects. For hard wearing surface like tables, I use wip-on poly only.

I won't use anything else. Why change a winning forumla?:U

Superbunny
12th March 2009, 08:31 PM
That is the finish I have been using for the past 2 years. I use it for most of my projects. For hard wearing surface like tables, I use wip-on poly only.

I won't use anything else. Why change a winning forumla?:U

Thanks Wongo, I'll take your recommendation on that.:D:D

SB

Tex B
12th March 2009, 09:10 PM
I use the first part - except it should be the linseed oil that's boiled, not the tung oil:wink:.

Then I use Ubeaut traditional wax instead of the second part.

I really like the rich look this finish gives the wood.

Pieces finished this way include this (http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=76354), this (http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=87161), and this (http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=77453), which might give you a feel for what the finish looks like on mahogany and blackwood.

Tex

jerryc
19th March 2009, 05:14 PM
I also use the 1/3 third finish. Howewver I prefer to use gloss polyurethane. The reason is simple. To achieve a satin finish steatites are added by the manufacturer. Stearites obscure the grain. Use the gloss and if it's too shiny, then simply toning it down with a very mild abrasive is all that is necessary.

Jerry

lesmeyer
19th March 2009, 06:37 PM
Sounds like a better mix than the Danish oil I use. What I would like to know, should there be any sanding/rubbing between coats?
Regards
Les

Superbunny
25th March 2009, 10:57 PM
What I would like to know, should there be any sanding/rubbing between coats?
Regards
Les

Yes, according to Sam Maloof.:D:D

Wongo
26th March 2009, 09:03 AM
You don't sand but you rub as much finish off as possible.

Ben from Vic.
26th March 2009, 06:19 PM
To achieve a satin finish steatites are added by the manufacturer. Stearites obscure the grain.

Jerry

Yes I found this out after I bought some satin poly. Doh.


You don't sand but you rub as much finish off as possible.

I didn't know this, but had been wondering....
Obviously you still want to build enough depth to bring a shine a full shine

Superbunny
26th March 2009, 08:04 PM
You don't sand but you rub as much finish off as possible.

Sam Maloof talks about rubbing off the first coat as much as possible but later says sand between coats except for the two final coats with bees wax.:D:D

SB

Wongo
26th March 2009, 09:23 PM
2 things.

Firstly, Sam didn't say that. He said apply the finish, rub it off completely then leave it to dry for 2 days. Repeat the same process for another 3 times. For the fifth coat he mixed Tung oil, Linseed oil and wax.

Secondly, I don't see the advantage of sanding. Sandpapers don't remove the oil completely, a cloth does.

Superbunny
28th March 2009, 08:48 PM
2 things.

Firstly, Sam didn't say that. He said apply the finish, rub it off completely then leave it to dry for 2 days. Repeat the same process for another 3 times. For the fifth coat he mixed Tung oil, Linseed oil and wax.

Secondly, I don't see the advantage of sanding. Sandpapers don't remove the oil completely, a cloth does.

It's times like these I wish I'd keept the artical I was reading just the other week, so I guess I wrote the formula and process down all wrong again.:D:D

SB

Wongo
28th March 2009, 11:27 PM
No need to keep any articles. I've got the video and a book for your. Let's me refresh your momery.

"It is a mixture of one-third linseed oil, one-third raw tung oil, and one-third semigloss urethane varnish. I apply it generously and then rub it off completely so there isn't a wet spot left anywhere. I let it sit overnight and then add another coat. The process is repeated about 4 times. Then I make a batch of finish that is half linseed oil and half tung oil with some shredded beeswax mixed in. I put two coats of that finish on, and the chair's finished, ready to be used."

Sam Maloof.



:D

Ben from Vic.
29th March 2009, 08:38 AM
Perhaps we were getting mixed up with "sand" and "rub", I know I did.:-

Rattrap
29th March 2009, 09:27 AM
Then I make a batch of finish that is half linseed oil and half tung oil with some shredded beeswax mixed in. I put two coats of that finish on, and the chair's finished, ready to be used
I've never used beewax before, does the bees wax melt naturally into the mix or would i need to melt it first?

Wongo
29th March 2009, 11:37 AM
Perhaps we were getting mixed up with "sand" and "rub", I know I did.:-

Well it is not that hard to work it out. You only sand in between coats with polyU because it make it sticks better, but you don't with oil finish.


I've never used beewax before, does the bees wax melt naturally into the mix or would i need to melt it first?

I've never tried it myself but I would think so.

Superbunny
29th March 2009, 03:07 PM
No need to keep any articles. I've got the video and a book for your. Let's me refresh your momery.

"It is a mixture of one-third linseed oil, one-third raw tung oil, and one-third semigloss urethane varnish. I apply it generously and then rub it off completely so there isn't a wet spot left anywhere. I let it sit overnight and then add another coat. The process is repeated about 4 times. Then I make a batch of finish that is half linseed oil and half tung oil with some shredded beeswax mixed in. I put two coats of that finish on, and the chair's finished, ready to be used."

Sam Maloof.



:D
I think it it depends on which article and what the journo has reported him saying as I have found the quote you refer to in Designing and building Chairs p34-35. I got the Sam's process out of another article that was reporting about his life and times and that is the one I've thrown out. Lets blam it on the journo and I see your point about sanding.:D:D

SB

Wongo
29th March 2009, 10:54 PM
You should borrow my DVD so you can listen to the man himself.:wink:

:D:D:D

Superbunny
30th March 2009, 10:04 PM
You should borrow my DVD so you can listen to the man himself.:wink:

:D:D:D

Wongo I'd really love that as I consider Sam Maloof to be my chair making master. PM me if it's possible to arrange it.:D:D

SB

Nanigai
3rd May 2009, 12:08 PM
It's times like these I wish I'd keept the artical I was reading just the other week, so I guess I wrote the formula and process down all wrong again.:D:D

SB

Hi SB, If you like Maloof stuff you may also be interested in these free chair instructions.
Not Maloof himself but a new USA member of the forums, Bill Kappell.
Could be worthwile.
here is the link.
Ian

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/forumdisplay.php?f=12

jerryc
3rd May 2009, 04:58 PM
I made a mistake in my previous reply. I don't use the urethane, blo, tung oil finish. The one I use is Maloof recipe two; BLO, urethane, (although I prefer varnish) and I replace the tung oil with turps. Theis finish is easier to apply and dries faster. Forgive the mistake but after three bouts in hospital in the last three months I think my brains got a bit scrambled. Hospitals do that to you.

Jerry