A True CLEAR Finish, How?

[mrnobody]

Hi All,

This is my first post and sorry if it's a duplicate.

I would like to know how I can get a TRUE CLEAR finish on light/pale timbers. Specifically speaking, I would like to get some Clear Grade Pine - but would like it to stay in it's natural 'raw' pale color. I've used Esatpol's and Polyurathan's (sorry for bad spelling) in the past - all introduce a "yellow" tint and effectively darken the pine/wood. I believe there are products out there that do what I want but they are difficult for me to locate.

Thanks for anyone who is reading & Happy Australia Day!

[jmk89]

Try Rustins Clear Plastic - it is just that and it looks like plastic film (which it is), but it doesn't colour the wood. Go to Rustins.com.au for the details

[Afro Boy]

I've used Ubeat's Dewaxed White Shellax (http://www.ubeaut.com.au/dewaxed.html)on Huon Pine before. I've found it works really well for light timbers. It darkens them no more than having water on the piece.

[mrnobody]

Thanks Jeremy, I did dig around on some of the other posts and found people asking the same question. The theme of advice was not to use an oil based Polyurethane. Instead, be sure to use a Water Based Polyurethane.

Cabots have a product called "Crystal Clear" that *apparently* achieves this. I would love to know if anyone can recommend this? http://www.cabots.com.au/interior/furn_int_clears.asp

I will have a look at http://www.rustins.com.au/ because what you described sounds great... I just hope its a satin finish and not a gloss.

Thanks again!

[RufflyRustic]

I second UBeaut's White second and I'll also raise you Minwax wipe on poly - clear. I have found both work very well on pine when the aim is a great finish with no yellowing.

cheers
Wendy

[mrnobody]

Well I looked around for other's commenting on Cabot's Crystal Clear...

I've found some rather negative feedback.
"Stay clear of"... http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showpost.php?p=57963&postcount=2

"Dry's Cloudy" http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showpost.php?p=211048&postcount=2

"Yes, they all dry Cloudy" http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showpost.php?p=211062&postcount=3

"Don't use em" http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showpost.php?p=211068&postcount=4

The only positivish comments are...

"Result 'OK'" http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showpost.php?p=436308&postcount=2

"Does NOT dry Cloudy" http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showpost.php?p=211335&postcount=6

I don't know who to believe here :)

[Ekim]

mrnobody,

I recently used Cabot's Crystal Clear (satin) on a MDF shelf with Tasmanian Oak trim. Three coats. The product darkens the MDF and TO trim as if wet.

Because of the quick drying time (20 - 30 minutes touch dry) you need to watch your brush strokes. Also, thoroughly clean the rim of the can before replacing the lid - this stuff dries rock hard. The overall finish is good.

HTH

Mike

[Hadamona]

I have used Cabots Crystal Clear on a piece of furniture made of hoop pine and it has kept its pale colour, the finish is very durable though.

I also used it on MDF and it does darken the MDF slightly.

[mrnobody]

So what you are saying is that using Cabot's Crystal Clear on pine, would result in a finish that looks like the pine (timber) "is wet" with water.

Effectively I would say this "darkens" the pine (or other timber) from it's natural dry colour. Sure it's clear, but it does sound like this is a discoloration of the timber (does anyone agree with me?).

[mrnobody]

Hey Hadamona, thanks for the reply... your reply is different to the previous that claimed Cabot's Crystal Clear darkened the timber as 'if wet' with water. Would you conclude this is true?

Te test is... if you put a layer of 'glad wrap' (aka cling film) on the wood it doesn't discolour. I want to achieve this coloring using a sealer.

[Afro Boy]

I'd be interested to know if anyone has a solution to this. I didn't think it was possible to finish a piece and have it remain it's raw unfinished colour (i.e. not the colour when wet with water).

[mrnobody]

Hi There Afro Boy... I am interested in an answer too.


I'd be interested to know if anyone has a solution to this. I didn't think it was possible to finish a piece and have it remain it's raw unfinished colour (i.e. not the colour when wet with water).

Well according to jmk98...


Try Rustins Clear Plastic - it is just that and it looks like plastic film (which it is), but it doesn't colour the wood. Go to Rustins.com.au for the details

I can see how a 2-pak plastic solution might achieve this (like the Rustin's Clear Plastic). But it seems like a hassle to get it anything other than a Full Gloss finish. It's also looks pretty expensive for large pieces of furniture (but might be worth it).

[Hadamona]

Here's a comparison between hoop pine and mdf.

Raw hoop pine sitting on a table with 3 coats of crystal clear
94995

Raw mdf sitting on a table with 3 coats
94996

[mrnobody]

Well, it got the better of me. I went down to my local hardware shop and bought some Water Based Satin Polyurethane.

I prepared an offcut of pine plywood, does this result in a yellowing finish??? you be the judge! But let me ask, can you see the 'clear' sticky tape between the finished and raw sides... because that it was I would call clear (and that's what I am looking to achieve).

Hadamona's "Raw hoop pine sitting on a table with 3 coats of crystal clear" looks perfect. I did not buy the Crystal Clear and perhaps this would yield a different result.

For the record, this might not satisfy my 'clear' needs but if you don't mind the result I would highly recommend Water Based Polyurethane. It was extremely easy to work with and gave a great result.

I'll move on to test #2 next...

[KorDes]

Have you tried clear lacquer?

At work we do a whitewash type. The pine is whitewashed first and clear lacquered over top. When I first saw the end result I had to have a closer look and asked the finishing guy if it had been finished. It doesnt look like it was finished from a distance but on closer inspection it was.

[silentC]

I don't think it is possible to do what you're asking. Any coating you put on the wood is going to refract light in a different way to the raw timber. Having said that, the closest I've seen to true clear finish is clear acrylic lacquer. I have some here that is designed for use with timber but you can get similar products that are used in automotive work (in fact my stuff comes from an automotive paint manufacturer). It just so happens that I have used it on clear pine and it does not add a yellow cast. Nevertheless it still darkens the timber somewhat. I think anything that absorbs into the wood is going to do this, no matter how clear it is.

[Harry72]

KorDes and SC are on the right track, NC lacquer is about the clearest non-colouring finish, the catch... needs to be sprayed on.

[BandsawBandit]

A lot of elbow grease..........:oo:

[Sonab]

most pines will darken over time no matter what you do to it the whitewash idea sounds the most likely to produce your desired result

[durwood]

Don't get confused here - NC lacquer if clear when put on ( it usually has a slight yellow tone will yellow quickly due to the effect of light ( just as NC tape -sticky tape does).

The non yellowing clear is "acrylic lacquer" a different paint, the best ones are automotive as they are made to apply to cars and last in direct sunlight. They will last years compared to NC used the same way which will turn yellow and then black within months.

Even better solution is a two pack auto enamel clear that is used on modern vehicles over all colours, metallics and pearl colours. it is the best clearest finish available not only guaranteed to last years but dries to a rock hard finish.

[echnidna]

and it goes over timber quite nicely

[mrnobody]

Don't get confused here - NC lacquer if clear when put on ( it usually has a slight yellow tone will yellow quickly due to the effect of light ( just as NC tape -sticky tape does).

The non yellowing clear is "acrylic lacquer" a different paint, the best ones are automotive as they are made to apply to cars and last in direct sunlight. They will last years compared to NC used the same way which will turn yellow and then black within months.

Even better solution is a two pack auto enamel clear that is used on modern vehicles over all colours, metallics and pearl colours. it is the best clearest finish available not only guaranteed to last years but dries to a rock hard finish.

Thanks durwood for that great explaination. Sounds like you are right, and that the auto finishings or 2pak enamel paints are the best option. Unfortunately, I was looking for a satin finish. I would certainly take this advice on board the next time I would like a high gloss clear finish.

[durwood]

You can get the auto clears in satin ( low gloss) there is available agents to allow the gloss level to be reduced. Normally the painter adds a proportion to the mix the more he adds the less gloss you get. So you can control the gloss level anywhere from full to flat.

A lot of parts on cars are not gloss because they reflect light to much so they are dulled off. Examples: wipers, dash boards other trim bits also bonnet blakk outs such as the GT cars . All the colour systems have a flatting agent to reduce gloss.

These products are not available to the general public and only the trade normally has access to them.

[silentC]

The stuff I mentioned above comes in 30%, 50% and full gloss. As I said, it's acrylic lacquer, not NC. It is water-clear. Made by Concept Paints who are an automotive paint manufacturer but this particular product is designed for use on timber.

I bought it from my local Bristol paint shop.