dutch finish

[popawisky]

I,m changing my handle to confused.

Read many books on frencch polishing, purchased an excellent ozie publication written by one who shall remain nameless, and attended a one day workshop at TAFE.
After all that research it still seems double dutch.
Ok .
Staining. I would like to use the ubeaut powder stains, but, as a rank novice, lack the confidence to try mixing different powders to achieve the desired result.. Is there a mixing chart or something included with the seven pack????
Ok
My current project is a small jewel box clock, lift off lid and drawer.
I would like to create a lighter centre with contrasting darker areas around the corners and edges. Possible using a water based gel stain baltic pine and mulberry. Do I apply the baltic pine allow to dry and seal before applying the contrast. Or is it better to apply both wet to achieve a gradual blend.
Will finish using my new found french polishing skills but is it possible to use shellawax cream on this. If cream is ok what do I use to create friction to set the polish

Finally, if Australia is considered the Antipodes then West Aust is the Antipodes of the Antipodes. Where is a supplier that stocks polishing stuff??


Sorry if all that sounds double dutch
:(

[Neil]

G'day confused - You sure are.... U-Beaut don't have powdered stains, they are (liquid) Water Dyes (http://www.ubeaut.com.au/dye.html). There is no use for a colour mixing chart as the colours vary so much from timber to timber that it would be useless. All you need is a little basic knowledge like yellow + red = orange, yellow + blue = green, red + blue = purple and green + red makes brown, etc. You also need a note pad to write down what you mixed to get a particular colour some scrap timber or paper to try the colours on and the ability to bite the bullet and have a go at experimenting with colours for yourself.

Mixing colours is almost a science and not easy for many people to do. Our water dyes are for people who aren't afraid to have a go. If you are afraid to experiment, stick with the premixed timber colours, they are designed to take the clever out of staining, dying and colour matching.

Contrasted colours is usually done by spraying, as getting a good blend by wiping is extremely hard. Wet on wet would be better than wet on dry.

Distributors in WA
CLICK HERE (http://www.ubeaut.com.au/distribs.html)

Hope this is of some help and not all double Dutch back at ya.

Cheers - Neil :D

PS Don't use any of the Shellawaxes. They really are best when used on the lathe.