minwax

[mattym83]

is it possible to get a really thick coat, i have tried 4 coats how many coats can be applied.
what wolud be the best wax or polish to go over the top without getting a glossy surface
thanks Matt

[RufflyRustic]

Matt, the coats are thin, and yes, you have to apply a fair few coats to get a thick coat. However, perserveering does work.

How thick do you want it? and what are you comparing it to, that makes you think, oh say, 4 coats of Wipe On Poly is too thin??:?

thanks
Wendy

[mattym83]

ive just seen types of furniture coated with a nice thick coat like bars and dining tables
and like the look and want to achieve that look.
how many coats is too many??

[Honorary Bloke]

ive just seen types of furniture coated with a nice thick coat like bars and dining tables
and like the look and want to achieve that look.
how many coats is too many??

No amount of coats are too many. Somewhere I've got a chart for calculating how many coats one needs to achieve x thickness. I'll look for it later. Last furniture project I used 7 coats of wiping varnish to get where I wanted to be. And might have used more if I hadn't been on a deadline. :) All depends on the look you want to have in the end.

[BTW, some of those bars and tables may be coated with epoxy resin, which is a whole different kettle of fish.]

[RufflyRustic]

Morning Bob

That chart would be very handy :2tsup:

Matt, The bars and tables may more than likely will have been finished in a different product, at a guess, perhaps two-pac, which in itself, can be a thicker finish coat for coat as compared to Wipe on Poly.

Sorry to be a bit pedantic:rolleyes:, but Is it the thick coat you are after, for preservation of your of work, or the lustre that such a thick coat may give (depends on the timber and the finish used) or is it the sheen?

Based on what you've said, I think you are after preservation. Have I understood you correctly?:?

Perhaps you may fiind asking Minwax themselves helpful?:? http://www.minwax.com/

cheers
Wendy

[munruben]

what wolud be the best wax or polish to go over the top without getting a glossy surface
thanks MattIf you dont want a gloss/shiny finish on your work, I would use the mat/satin finish Minwax which gives you a much less shiny finish then the glossy Minwax.

[mattym83]

thanks for all the input
yes i am after the mat look i have been using the satin minwax.
like the lustre of the thicker coats but also the preservation
i have used cabothane before and liked the thickness but that stuff is impossible to get smooth

Matt

[Mr Brush]

Can anyone suggest the best thing to rub back each coat of Minwax Wipe-On between coats, without removing too much of the (already thin) layer? I've been using one of those scotchbrite pads (medium), but not sure if this is ideal.

Application is an MDF benchtop I'm making for someone. Sealed it first using a slightly thinned coat of white shellac (wiped on for smoothness), then the Minwax has been going on nicely over the top. :2tsup:

Trying to build up a reasonable thickness for durability.....or should I just reach for the brush and apply a thicker coat of estapol? Then spend ages trying to sand out the brushmarks....:C

Cheers

[RufflyRustic]

I now prefer to de-nib the minwax or shellac coats after every 2nd or third coat, especially if the coats are thin.

I've some more camphor in middle of shellacing at present, and found that it needing de-nibbing after the third coat, then another 3 coats later, then another two coats later. It's now ready for what will hopefully be it's last two coats, then it's time for EEE and Wax (a week later once the shellac has cured)

cheers
Wendy

[Mr Brush]

Thanks Wendy - we foxes appreciate Cunning Plans like that !

I'll try putting on 2-3 coats of the Wipe-On before de-nibbing. That should certainly reduce the chances of going right through a single coat, which I have a nasty feeling is what I've been doing. :(( Just using up the last of my shop bought Minwax Wipe-On before I start using my homemade version (Satin Estapol+mineral turps), per the recipe that someone else posted on the forum. :2tsup:

Any suggestions on what pad/abrasive to use? I've read somewhere that a really light hand sand with 400 grit paper is the go, somewhere else that 000 steel wool works better, and elsewhere again that the scotchbrite pads work a treat. I've been using the so-called "VERY FINE" grade of scotchbrite pad, but it does seem to leave hefty scratches in the finish.

Cheers

[RufflyRustic]

I've been using 2000 on this particular project for the denibbing. I found that the coats of shellac were so thin, that using my normal 400 or 800 did just what you described, left too many scratches. Using 0000 steel wool would be probably, even better.

Just out of interest, I have noticed that this finish will need finishing itself, i.e. lots of indentations in the finish, so I'm contemplating getting some tripoli powder and using that instead of the EEE.

cheers
Wendy

[Honorary Bloke]

Mr Brush,

Just keep in mind the differences between shellac and poly. Shellac is an evaporative finish and the next coat melts and blends with the old, whether you sand or not. Poly is a reactive finish relying on molecular bonding, so if you let it fully cure between coats, you will need to sand back to allow for the mechanical bonding. One solution is to be sure to apply the next coat soon enough so it can still bond with the last. [The last coat should be fully dry to the touch, however, before re-coating.]

If you wait a few days between coats, you will need to sand it back. :)