familyguy
2nd May 2008, 12:01 AM
Can this type of wall cracking be "repaired" or is patching the only thing that can be done? If it can be repaired how is it best done ? I've got a copy of the CSIRO brochure which describes the repair procedure recommended by them, but most customers freak out at the cost of the CSIRO procedure. I usually do the following:
Chip out all the loose stuff and the plaster that is no longer adhering to the bricks, once I start the loose stuff can usually be pulled off with the fingers. Often a 3mm crack ends up 120mm-150mm wide
Hammer gavlanised metal strips about 1.5mm-2.00 mm thick into the brick gaps to stop the gap from closing up in future. The theory is that if the crack closes up the patching gets pushed out of the crack causing the wall to bulge at that point. I do this about every 120mm-150mm all the way down the crack.
Apply bonding agent to the bricks, then trowel motar into the crack almost level with the existing good plaster. Usually have to use a scraper here to apply the motar as a trowel is too wide.
Plaster over this with cornice cement/patching plaster.
Finich off with skim coat flushing compound which may need a light sand when dry to make truly flush.
All this is very time consuming is there a better faster and or better way?
I was replacing some cracked tiles in a shower alcove and I watched the painters for a while, a quick scrape with a scraper, fill the crack with super fine plaster, a quick sand when its set then on with the paint.
Am I being too fussy? Seems to me there must be a quicker better way. Some times I find fibeglass tape from a previous repair (the type used for gyprock) under a crack, as its torn in two I have to pull it away which makes even more mess.
Is this type patching better?
There's been a few very dry years in SA which has caused a lot of cracking even in previously stable houses, most people don't want to know about soil engineers and reports they just the cosmetics taken care of
Some advice would be appreciated
Chip out all the loose stuff and the plaster that is no longer adhering to the bricks, once I start the loose stuff can usually be pulled off with the fingers. Often a 3mm crack ends up 120mm-150mm wide
Hammer gavlanised metal strips about 1.5mm-2.00 mm thick into the brick gaps to stop the gap from closing up in future. The theory is that if the crack closes up the patching gets pushed out of the crack causing the wall to bulge at that point. I do this about every 120mm-150mm all the way down the crack.
Apply bonding agent to the bricks, then trowel motar into the crack almost level with the existing good plaster. Usually have to use a scraper here to apply the motar as a trowel is too wide.
Plaster over this with cornice cement/patching plaster.
Finich off with skim coat flushing compound which may need a light sand when dry to make truly flush.
All this is very time consuming is there a better faster and or better way?
I was replacing some cracked tiles in a shower alcove and I watched the painters for a while, a quick scrape with a scraper, fill the crack with super fine plaster, a quick sand when its set then on with the paint.
Am I being too fussy? Seems to me there must be a quicker better way. Some times I find fibeglass tape from a previous repair (the type used for gyprock) under a crack, as its torn in two I have to pull it away which makes even more mess.
Is this type patching better?
There's been a few very dry years in SA which has caused a lot of cracking even in previously stable houses, most people don't want to know about soil engineers and reports they just the cosmetics taken care of
Some advice would be appreciated