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View Full Version : Moving a split-system aircon.















dylanrabbit
22nd April 2008, 09:51 PM
Hi, would anyone know if it is much grief to move/remove the head of a split-system air conditioner? I presume the moving can be diy, but the dis/connecting isn't. Now here's the thing - is disconnection/re-connection something that can be done quickly while i've got a plumber out for some other work, or is it more painful?

We've bought a new house, which has a split-system in the lounge. Unfortunatly it's right where we want to put our wall unit and tele, etc. We're going to get a ducted gas heater put in, so should have the appropriate trades stopping in for that.

-Rabbit

funkychicken
22nd April 2008, 10:01 PM
The unit should just come right off the wall bracket easily. The problem would be the pipes.

A recovery unit would probably be need to suck out the gas, then you'd undo the locking nuts.. or cut the pipe, I forget.

If you're moving the unit elsewhere then pipes would need to be extended, you'd have a hole in the wall to fix, another hole to make and a whole lot of fussing about

memphis
22nd April 2008, 10:06 PM
Hi, would anyone know if it is much grief to move/remove the head of a split-system air conditioner? I presume the moving can be diy, but the dis/connecting isn't. Now here's the thing - is disconnection/re-connection something that can be done quickly while i've got a plumber out for some other work, or is it more painful?

We've bought a new house, which has a split-system in the lounge. Unfortunatly it's right where we want to put our wall unit and tele, etc. We're going to get a ducted gas heater put in, so should have the appropriate trades stopping in for that.

-Rabbit

You will probabally find your plumber is unable to do the work, you need a refrigeration lic to do that kind of work.

It wouldnt be cheap in any case, the unit needs to be decommissioned (reclaim the gas, disconnect the piping & electrics), then the inside unit itself needs to be moved to its new position, moving the electrical, new piping ran between the inside/outside unit, if its not on an external wall you need a drain chased into the wall, reflared, and reconnected, then the unit need to be put on a vaccum pump and ALL the air sucked out of the system for a good hour or so.

Then they can release the gas they reclaimed back into the piping, and maybe add more if the unit has moved further away from where it currently is. Then you will be done!

Might not be worth it...

Claw Hama
22nd April 2008, 10:09 PM
Rab, find yourself a good local refrigeration mechanic, DO NOT USE A PLUMBER!! The only thing in common with a plumber is that the pipes are copper it's not even the same grade of copper. The pipes must remain perfectly clean and free of dust and moisture (humidity) you can't kink the pipes or stress the walls or they will leak.
Get a Fridgie

nev25
22nd April 2008, 10:11 PM
Is the head unit hard wired or plugged into a power point.
You may need a Sparkie too

dylanrabbit
22nd April 2008, 11:09 PM
Rab, find yourself a good local refrigeration mechanic, DO NOT USE A PLUMBER!!

Ok, Refrigeration Mechanic, not plumber, not gasfitter.

So it won't be the same person as to do the gasfitting then. There is also a 35 year-old gas wall furnace that needs to be turfed....

tricky4000
23rd April 2008, 09:22 AM
Where are you located Dylan Rabbit?

Dan.

gyro
23rd April 2008, 11:53 PM
Need a frig tech, he will pump the refrigerant back into the outdoor unit and seal off the valves on the outdoor unit. Then dicsconnect the indoor unit and wiring as he would have an electrical licence to do this. move the unit, reconnect and vac out the pipes then release the refrigerant back into the indoor unit and test for leaks and do a electrical compliance certificate.:roll:

nev25
24th April 2008, 01:24 AM
. Then disconnect the indoor unit and wiring as he would have an electrical license to do this. :roll:

In Vic The fridgie would more than likely just have a Disconnect-reconnect (P grade)Electrical license.
Which means as you are moving location extra/new cable will need to be run so an Electrical contractor will have to be involved.

Extremal rare to find a Fridgie with an A grade electrical license here in Vic as duel trades are for some reasons frowned upon by the plumbers board

Skew ChiDAMN!!
24th April 2008, 02:33 AM
Fridgie aside, there are two other things to consider:

1. How far away do you want to move the unit? If you need to run longer lines you'll probably need to add extra gas. It may be cheaper/more practical to move the outdoor unit as well, depending on final location of header unit. (The fridgie should be able to advise you on this when you get a quote. You do plan on getting a quote first, don't you? :;)

2. Fixing the old holes. You don't say what the exterior of the house is? Bricks are easily enough replaced, weather-boards take more effort and cladded/rendered walls give the biggest headaches. (Unless you're happy to simply nail some gal sheet over the hole... but then I doubt you'd be asking.)

dylanrabbit
25th April 2008, 12:49 AM
If shifting the compressor, this sounds more effort/expense than a new install.

Thanks for the input. This is a bigger job than I thought... but at least I know that before starting.

Timmo
26th April 2008, 05:49 PM
Just get an electrician with an arctick licence. Job done in one hit.

Remember fridge mechanics have no understanding of electricity, have neither the mental capacity or physical ability to size, run and connect a NEW circuit with a 16A circuit breaker, yet can design and build some of the most complex control systems, as long as it's not hooked up at the time.

Nor can they run water or drainage to a process cooler with integrated humidification.

But plumbers and sparkies CAN install, commission and decommission an 18KW A/C unit.

God Bless the unions.