Fixing of TP decking

[Dan_ms]

Hi everyone! as you can see this is my first thread/post :) Ive found this site to be a great source of info!

I am in the process of installing a rather large (40sqm) deck at the moment, predominately constructed out of treated pine and have a few queries:

- I have read about a method of nailing deck planks to joists in an offset configuration to avoid splitting the joist down the middle over time. IE the 2 nails in each deck plank will be offset so there are 2 lines of nails along each joist as opposed to having all nails inline on the centre of the joist.
I am using 45mm wide joists. Is treated pine liable to split down the centre or is it hardly worth being concerned about?

- Is there any preference in using machine nailed SS nails with either screwed or ring shanks?


Im still undecided on fixing the reeded decking facing up or down... from this thread (http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=7521) its seems the majority think down is best.


Thanks for your help!

[Koala-Man]

Hi Dan,

I built a 36sqm TP deck about 7 or 8 years ago and offset the nails a bit like the book said. Nothing seems to have split so far. Anyway, I think it's probably a heck of a lot easier than trying to put them all in a straight line.

I don't think TP is all that prone to splitting anyway, it's too soft and cheesy, though drilling holes for the nails when nailing near the ends of the planks is a good idea.

I used the galvanised nails with the spiral pattern and the flattish little head on them and just banged them in with a hammer. Nothing's lifted up yet and my knees have nearly recovered. Nothing's gone rusty either.

I put the reeding face down, how it was originally supposed to be to avoid water collecting and encouraging rot between the planks and the joists. Or are they the bearers? One of life's little mysteries.

Reeding down would be a heck of a lot easier to sweep I'd guess.

My only other comment would be think twice about putting translucent roofing on - it can cause a bit of a greenhouse effect even though it's supposed to block out the heat. My deck's as hot as b#ggery when the sun's out, even in winter. It nearly cooked my little dog last year - he got heat stroke and the vet bill was about $1000.

Good luck.

Gaz.

[Dan_ms]

Thanks for the reply Gaz.
I can imagine the sore knees after banging in 36sqm worth of nails!!

Ive gone for alternating sheets of polycarbonate and colorbond as the roof so hopefully it doesnt become a greenhouse as you say.

[Dr - 307]

I built a gable roof verandah and deck inside a 6 x 4m courtyard and lined the roof with Amperlite Bronze Tint Greca Profile but put 45 diagonal lattice in the gable ends to let the wind blow through and let the heat out. It certainly isn't like cool air-conditioned comfort but it also isn't a sauna and don't forget it is enclosed by three walls and also gets afternoon sun.

Just my 2c.
Cheers,
Dr - 307.

[UteMad]

Treated pine you can do them in a straight line .....
If using coil gun be it stainless or galv use ring shank as you are going into pine joists. If the boards are pine you can use either if the boards are hardwood you'd need stainless
I prefer 65mm titadeck hand nailed if it were my place as your far less likely to have a popped nail.. don't bother hammering 50mm as they will pop so you might as well have used the coil gun
drill your butt joints in the boards to avoid splittingcheers utemad

[dazzler]

I have read about a method of nailing deck planks to joists in an offset configuration to avoid splitting the joist down the middle over time. IE the 2 nails in each deck plank will be offset so there are 2 lines of nails along each joist as opposed to having all nails inline on the centre of the joist.


Never seen it happen myself, thats not to say it hasn't, but wouldnt go worrying about it.

:)

[Dan_ms]

Thanks for the helpful replies fellas!

The up or down reeding issue still troubles me :doh::D

[Burnsy]

The up or down reeding issue still troubles me :doh::D

Don't let it trouble you just lay them down like they are meant to be, grooves up catches all manner of crap and it looks terrible. Only thing I have layed groove up is Modwood around a pool to provide less slip and this was given the thumbs up by Modwood before I did it, picture here (http://www.woodworkforums.com/showpost.php?p=711837&postcount=2) it's the framed one on the right alongside the pool.

Utemad is right that ringshank are supposedly the go into softwood and screwshank into hardwood. However, I have stopped using ringshank stainless as I was having heaps of trouble with them folding up in my nailer due to the method of creating the rings weakening the shank. I now use scewshank for all my decks. When I changed over I asked around and was informed that screwshank is pretty much standard practice here in WA. I compared a few bits of deck fastened to some TP and I could not tell the difference between holding ability - they were both hard to get off. I actually think that the screwshank may have held better and I think this is beacuse they tend to drive into the timber rather than rip into it.

Which ever way you go, Ortons in Balcatta is the go for purchasing them.

Cheers,
Mike

[Dan_ms]

Thanks for that Mike...I think I will go for reeds down.

Another question...
Does anyone have any tips for easily cutting deck planks along their length to make a thinner width plank? Could just use the circular saw with a guide, but to get a 4.8m long plank held in place without obstructions isnt easy.

[Burnsy]

Run it over a table saw if you or a friend/neighbour has one. On site I usually cut freehand with my small circular saw, you will be surprised how accurate you can be. Turn the board over so it is reed side up and use one of the reeds as a line if possible. Once finished, use a hand plane to tidy it up.

If it is a board that is already layed/fastened then have someone else hold a straight edge or long level on the board to run the edge of the saw base along.

[UteMad]

Never seen it happen myself, thats not to say it hasn't, but wouldnt go worrying about it.

:)


Happens plenty but only with hardwood joists .. the split goes down the top edge the water sits in the split and rots the top of the joist in a V shape...

MAKES ME MONEY TOO BOOOOOO HAAAA HAAAAAA :U


cheers utemad

[UteMad]

On site they are ripped with a circular saw and fence guide or free hand if on the taper ... if you can't hold the board put it on a plank a hit 3 tacks into it 1 at either end and if needed 1 in the middle then cut off what you need to and re arise the edge

cheers utemad