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DJ’s Timber
8th February 2008, 08:39 AM
Guys, been nearly 20yrs from my coppersmithing days when I used to build Hospiital Sterilizers.

Anyway, I want to install a an airline in my 2 sheds and I am thinking of using 3/4" tube for main line with 1/2" for the droplines.

Should I use 16# or 18#?

Also want to put a drain valve on the end of each drop line to keep the condensation to a minimum, was think of 3/8 ball valve, what do you reckon or is there a cheaper valve out there that would be up to the job?

Hopefully I won't get too much condensation in the line as I will be building a condenser for it as well.

So with all that in mind, what should I be expected to pay roughly for;

3/4" tube 16 or 18# hard drawn 6mt lengths
1/2" tube 16 or 18# hard drawn 6mt lengths
3/8" ball valves

Thanks for ya help :2tsup:

bricks
8th February 2008, 10:34 AM
$2.00 per fitting- nipples, tees, elbows,
class b copper is what you need,
1/2 inch - $30 check with your local
3/4 inch - $45 supplier on these
Brass ball valve $5.00


Use 15% silver soder due to high stresses involved ( it's more flexible)
run pipe at slight fall to drain end ideal 20mm/M, no less than 10mm/M
Use gas thread tape and gas thread seal paste.

Prices vary from state to state quite a bit so you'll need to ring a plumbing supplier.d

Black Ned
8th February 2008, 11:29 AM
So thats the reason we don't have enough hospitals!
D J - sterilized them 20 years ago!

DJ’s Timber
8th February 2008, 12:53 PM
$2.00 per fitting- nipples, tees, elbows,
class b copper is what you need,
1/2 inch - $30 check with your local
3/4 inch - $45 supplier on these
Brass ball valve $5.00
Use 15% silver soder due to high stresses involved ( it's more flexible)
run pipe at slight fall to drain end ideal 20mm/M, no less than 10mm/M
Use gas thread tape and gas thread seal paste.
Prices vary from state to state quite a bit so you'll need to ring a plumbing supplier.d

Thanks bricks :2tsup:, that gives me a starting point, won't look like a complete dill when I walk in the plumbing supplies joint.


So thats the reason we don't have enough hospitals!
D J - sterilized them 20 years ago!


:rofl:you're a funny man Linden, didn't build them quite that big, but did build one big enough to drive a couple of Mini's into :o.

Vernonv
8th February 2008, 01:01 PM
Use gas thread tape and gas thread seal paste.

What's the difference between gas and "normal" thread tape?
I have both, the gas is yellow and the normal is pink (got to worry about you plumbers:oo:) or white, but other than colour they look pretty much the same.

wonderplumb
8th February 2008, 02:31 PM
May I just add that off your main 3/4 run, take the 1/2 branches off the top and back down, this will eliminate NEARLY all condensation going down to the valve and still run the main line with slight fall with a tail pipe at the end. Dont use white tape, its rubbish. You can use either the pink or yellow stuff, the yellow stuff is formulated a little differently as hydrocarbon gases for some reason has a reaction to something in the tape which makes it harden and crack. As Bricks said type B copper tube is the way to go, I belive that 5% silver will do the job, compressed air wont out perform the solder and its around $12 cheaper PER STICK!!!!

$45 for a length of 3/4, man im driving to Adelaide to buy a sling!!!!
$45 is the absolute dirt cheapest you'd be lucky to find here as a plumber off the street and it will be the korean or chinese stuff. A mate of mine who works for a large construction mob says they buy it by the container from china in 12m lengths, at around $1 per metre for 3/4!!!!

DJ’s Timber
8th February 2008, 03:04 PM
Cheers W/P, did have the drop lines coming off the top in mind, with the drain valve about a foot or so below the connection point. Also going to have the mainline looped so that it is endless.

Thanks for the explaining the differences on the tape too.

I do have quite a few rods of different grades so I have several choices and won't be needing to buy any, also have at least 50 rods of 56% silver solder, so could use that :o, at $19 to $21 a stick I don't think so :no: I'll save that for the higher quality work :doh:.

China
8th February 2008, 10:10 PM
Unless you you have the tubr already go for the plastic airline tube it's great stuff no soldering just conects with screw fittings drain valves atc all available to suit

China
9th February 2008, 10:15 PM
Dj the product I refered to is MaXair, as I said if you don't already have tubing give this a look it's the best and simplest system I have ever used

DJ’s Timber
9th February 2008, 10:20 PM
Cheers China, will have a look into it :2tsup: