How big of a deck can i realistically build for $3500 [Archive]

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dan_6

24th January 2008, 09:12 PM

i've had a bit of a poke around the forum before, decided to sign up this time, got alot of good info.

Basically i've got an allocation of $3500 to build the biggest deck i can out back, i'll most likely go with the 90x19 Merbu, and a 6 to 8mm gap between boards. (mind you i have no idea what the merbu costs, anyone know the best place in canberra for that?)

from all the guys that do this regulary, or anyone thats build a few, how big will that allow me to go.

VERY early stages obviously

i'll be using a fair few sadles dynabolted to the path out the side, and it'll start out about 900 high and due to the slope in our block, get closer to the ground the further out you get, so mabey ending up with 200-300 clearance depending on how far i can go etc.

but yeah mainly just after $$ per square meter including the framework underneath/nails etc etc. but seperate rough costing is fine too, ie, it'll cost you X ammount for the frame work of X size and X ammount to cover it, etc

Thanks
Dan

Waldo

24th January 2008, 09:20 PM

G'day Dan,

I've just rung up $3,700 on timber, fasteners and cement for 2.9m x 7m deck and pergola. Normal t/pine for the guts with 160lm of 140 x 19 merbau and 5 x 4.2m and 1 x 2.4m of 90 x 90 merbau posts I'm still to buy 3 x 3.6m and 1 x 1.2m of 100 x 100 cypress posts, handrails and roofing. It doesn't take much to kiss the money bye.

How big, I don't know for $3,500. I'm probably looking at $4 1/2K

pharmaboy2

24th January 2008, 10:12 PM

$3.50 plm for merbaus, gives about $41 / m^2, $35 for sub floor (with cheap design for spans etc). call it $80 a square metre for materials only - leave $500 left over for incidentals - beer, fancy fasteners, oil, and kennards hire. whats that work - 6 m by 6m or something.....

dan_6

24th January 2008, 10:14 PM

Hey, thanks for the quick replies
ok that post motivated us to go and do some measuring, we came up with

6000 x 4000 square deck, and its more like 500 high, missus over estimated there.

and a seperate but joined to main deck area as a landing from the sliding door that is going in soon.
it will be 2500 deep and 2300 wide. as a seperate small kind of deck i guess

im not sure how i'll go about decking that part as i only have 95mm clearance to the old rear patio cement pebblecreted area (about 1500x2000) to level it with the step to the laundry door that means it'll leave room for sweet bugger all joist to nail to, 75mm dyna bolted down somehow, is it ok to mount straight to there, or should some kind of token clearance be left underneath, for runoff etc....

Cheers
Dan

dan_6

24th January 2008, 10:27 PM

but thinking about all that, we might go 8000x4000 on the main part, (we have room to go to the other end of the house back the other way if we can afford it)

brynk

25th January 2008, 09:22 PM

gday dan_6

our deck (http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=58109) is 10m x 3m to date we have spent about $3500 and it has moved a little on since my last post. here is the costings of the deck to date at the time my last post was completed...

<table x:str="" style="border-collapse: collapse; 453pt;" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" width="605"><col style=" 61pt;" width="81"> <col style=" 56pt;" span="6" width="75"> <col style=" 56pt;" width="74"> <tbody><tr style=" 12.75pt;" height="17"> <td class="xl24" style=" 12.75pt; 61pt;" height="17" width="81">Structure</td> <td class="xl24" style=" 56pt;" align="right" width="75">Coatings</td> <td class="xl27" style=" 56pt;" align="right" width="75">Fixings</td> <td class="xl27" style=" 56pt;" align="right" width="75">H'ware</td> <td class="xl27" style=" 56pt;" align="right" width="75">Plumbing</td> <td class="xl27" style=" 56pt;" align="right" width="75">Timber</td> <td class="xl27" style=" 56pt;" align="right" width="75">Tools</td> <td class="xl25" style=" 56pt;" align="right" width="74">G Total</td> </tr> <tr style=" 12.75pt;" height="17"> <td class="xl24" style=" 12.75pt;" height="17">Deck</td> <td class="xl29" x:num="130.95" align="right">131</td> <td class="xl30" x:num="57.8" align="right">58</td> <td class="xl30">
</td> <td class="xl30">
</td> <td class="xl30" x:num="1227.2760000000001" align="right">1227</td> <td class="xl30">
</td> <td class="xl31" x:num="1416.0260000000001" align="right">1416</td> </tr> <tr style=" 12.75pt;" height="17"> <td class="xl28" style=" 12.75pt;" height="17">Footings</td> <td class="xl32">
</td> <td class="xl33">
</td> <td class="xl33" x:num="35.2" align="right">35</td> <td class="xl33">
</td> <td class="xl33">
</td> <td class="xl33">
</td> <td class="xl34" x:num="35.2" align="right">35</td> </tr> <tr style=" 12.75pt;" height="17"> <td class="xl28" style=" 12.75pt;" height="17">General</td> <td class="xl32">
</td> <td class="xl33" x:num="17.54" align="right">18</td> <td class="xl33">
</td> <td class="xl33">
</td> <td class="xl33">
</td> <td class="xl33">
</td> <td class="xl34" x:num="17.54" align="right">18</td> </tr> <tr style=" 12.75pt;" height="17"> <td class="xl28" style=" 12.75pt;" height="17">Ledger</td> <td class="xl32">
</td> <td class="xl33" x:num="20.56" align="right">21</td> <td class="xl33" x:num="16.33" align="right">16</td> <td class="xl33">
</td> <td class="xl33">
</td> <td class="xl33">
</td> <td class="xl34" x:num="36.89" align="right">37</td> </tr> <tr style=" 12.75pt;" height="17"> <td class="xl28" style=" 12.75pt;" height="17">N/A</td> <td class="xl32">
</td> <td class="xl33">
</td> <td class="xl33" x:num="21.89" align="right">22</td> <td class="xl33">
</td> <td class="xl33">
</td> <td class="xl33" x:num="299.94" align="right">300</td> <td class="xl34" x:num="321.83" align="right">322</td> </tr> <tr style=" 12.75pt;" height="17"> <td class="xl28" style=" 12.75pt;" height="17">Plumbing</td> <td class="xl32">
</td> <td class="xl33">
</td> <td class="xl33">
</td> <td class="xl33" x:num="" align="right">180</td> <td class="xl33">
</td> <td class="xl33">
</td> <td class="xl34" x:num="" align="right">180</td> </tr> <tr style=" 12.75pt;" height="17"> <td class="xl28" style=" 12.75pt;" height="17">Rails</td> <td class="xl32">
</td> <td class="xl33" x:num="49.82" align="right">50</td> <td class="xl33">
</td> <td class="xl33">
</td> <td class="xl33" x:num="" align="right">234</td> <td class="xl33">
</td> <td class="xl34" x:num="283.82" align="right">284</td> </tr> <tr style=" 12.75pt;" height="17"> <td class="xl28" style=" 12.75pt;" height="17">Steps</td> <td class="xl32">
</td> <td class="xl33">
</td> <td class="xl33">
</td> <td class="xl33">
</td> <td class="xl33" x:num="" align="right">126</td> <td class="xl33">
</td> <td class="xl34" x:num="" align="right">126</td> </tr> <tr style=" 12.75pt;" height="17"> <td class="xl28" style=" 12.75pt;" height="17">Substructure</td> <td class="xl32">
</td> <td class="xl33" x:num="81.19" align="right">81</td> <td class="xl33" x:num="18.4" align="right">18</td> <td class="xl33">
</td> <td class="xl33" x:num="606.31" align="right">606</td> <td class="xl33">
</td> <td class="xl34" x:num="705.9" align="right">706</td> </tr> <tr style=" 12.75pt;" height="17"> <td class="xl26" style=" 12.75pt;" height="17">Grand Total</td> <td class="xl35" x:num="130.95" align="right">131</td> <td class="xl36" x:num="226.91" align="right">227</td> <td class="xl36" x:num="91.82" align="right">92</td> <td class="xl36" x:num="" align="right">180</td> <td class="xl36" x:num="2193.5860000000002" align="right">2194</td> <td class="xl36" x:num="299.94" align="right">300</td> <td class="xl37" x:num="3123.2060000000001" align="right">3123</td> </tr> </tbody></table>
r's brynk

BustedThumbs

25th January 2008, 11:19 PM

I budgeted $100 per square metre and that seems to have worked well. Nearly (HAH!) finished and i'm just under budget.

Dirty Doogie

25th January 2008, 11:39 PM

IF you have to hire tools you'll likely use 10% of the budget - and deck finishes will eat another 10%. I'm guessing here - but I wouldnt plan to start anything over 25 sq mt for that money.

oohsam

26th January 2008, 10:47 AM

I have spent 3,500 and mine is 12x4 using 140x19 merbau and cypress pine stumps, posts...thats including a handrail with balustrading. I shopped around and did price matches where i could to save the cash.

dan_6

28th January 2008, 01:57 AM

bingoshelley

28th January 2008, 02:24 AM

thanks guys, looking good for what i can do with the cash, i'll have to shop around canberra a bit and find a good price on the decking, just for the hell of it when i was picking up something else at bunnings, i checked the price on the 90x19 and it was $3.98 per lineal meter, but im sure its cheaper elsewhere.
hey dan go to grays auctions i think they have one in canberra but merbu is only $1.25 mt and everything else is cheap as i just brought some from melb great quality best price ive found cheers shelley:o

Trav

29th January 2008, 11:21 PM

Dan

I reckon you could get up to about 30 sq m for that kind of money, assuming that you didn't need any new tools etc. And face it, every project like that needs new tools. Even if you use them on another project later on... or don't use them for ages...whatever. Just as long as you get some new toys.

Shop around - bunnings is hideously priced on some stuff. Try pinus sawmills, CAA timber.

Trav

dan_6

26th February 2008, 10:56 AM

every place i call about decking the price seems to go up more

Pinus
$3.90 l/m + $22 delivery

CCA
$4 l/m + $44 delivery

Fyshwick bulding supplies
$4.40 l/m + $40 delivery

Monaro timber
$4.50 l/m + $66 delivery !!

still calling

manoftalent

26th February 2008, 11:50 AM

while your calling and getting prices ......ask them this as well ...is it "random lengths" or pack length ..ie: 2.4mt 2.7mt..3.6...

pack length is dearer than random lengths ....if you have designed a deck and want specific lengths such as all 2.4mtr you will pay more ...random lengths may not always suit your purpose ( it may contain several "shorts" 1.2mtr lengths for instance)....and be totally useless to you ...so allow 5% extra in material supply to cover for this, and dont be afraid when ordering to state ..you will take random lenghts , but no "shorts" smaller than ( whatever is useless to you)....

journeyman Mick

26th February 2008, 02:17 PM

......... i'll most likely go with the 90x19 Merbu, and a 6 to 8mm gap between boards...............

A 6 - 8mm gap is way bigger than the usual 3mm and will look lousy, IMO.

Mick

echnidna

26th February 2008, 02:25 PM

6mm looks ok but not any wider

dan_6

26th February 2008, 03:57 PM

i ended up doing all my calculations based on a 3mm gap, after i too decided 6mm was a bit much,
what sized bearers and joists should i run, leaning towards running only bearers @ 450mm appart straight out from the house 4m, then putting noggins in between them all here and there, and decking parallel to the house straight across it all,

is that a good or bad idea? is it better to run bearers parallel to the house and have joists that way etc ??

what size wood would i use for either method?

Buggermedumplings

27th February 2008, 08:20 AM

I did a 3.5mm gap for two reasons, a) It measured out right with me only having to plane 3-4mm of the last boards and b) It looked right, I tried 5mm but spacing looked too big.

As for which way to run your bearers, it all depends which way you want to run your boards.

silentC

27th February 2008, 08:36 AM

5mm gap is mandatory in bush fire areas in NSW - ironically because of the Canberra fires...

dan_6

3rd March 2008, 01:58 PM

progress pics from the weekend, also put in the sliding door this weekend gone as well

friday- demolished the old slab out back of back door
sat- worked on installing sliding door and got it finished
sunday- got as far as only needing to finish hanging 1 more bearer, will get most of the stirrups installed this arvo.

the deck is extending in front of the sliding door, we'll work on that as soon as the concreting is done, as they will all dynabolt to the cement path, so quick and easy.

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/attachment.php?attachmentid=68477&stc=1&d=1204512871

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/attachment.php?attachmentid=68478&stc=1&d=1204512871

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/attachment.php?attachmentid=68479&stc=1&d=1204512871
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/attachment.php?attachmentid=68480&stc=1&d=1204512871

Waldo

3rd March 2008, 03:01 PM

dan_6

3rd March 2008, 03:13 PM

Dan6,

What spacing do you have there in for the bearers, you also don't seem to have much on the way of stirrups holding the outermost ledger?

Fast work but on sinking the dynabolts, took a full day to get into my bricks :~ for the d/bolts - the stinkers must've been baked tough back in '69.

Bearers are at 1m spacing (they werent all in yet when pics were taken) and joists are at .5m

Also there are only a few stirrups holding it up to level so we could get it into square properly before making anything final, mate i gave a call that has built a few said this was the easiest way to make sure things are square.

good hammer drill gets through the bricks pretty fast.

Waldo

3rd March 2008, 03:14 PM

:2tsup:

dan_6

7th March 2008, 01:32 PM

Some more progress pics. It should all be finished by the end of this long weekend.

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/attachment.php?attachmentid=68734&stc=1&d=1204856975

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/attachment.php?attachmentid=68735&stc=1&d=1204856975

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/attachment.php?attachmentid=68736&stc=1&d=1204856975

dan_6

9th March 2008, 11:32 PM

got 2/3 of the decking laid today, will post a few more progress pics tomorrow ;)

dan_6

11th March 2008, 11:21 AM

here are a few pics i took with the mobile phone, will do a few better ones with the digi cam later

just need to do the final cuts on the ends with a guide for a nice straight edge, and sort out a few bits and pieces, and do the whole oiling thing.

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/attachment.php?attachmentid=68971&stc=1&d=1205194770

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/attachment.php?attachmentid=68972&stc=1&d=1205194770

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/attachment.php?attachmentid=68973&stc=1&d=1205194770

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/attachment.php?attachmentid=68974&stc=1&d=1205194770

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/attachment.php?attachmentid=68975&stc=1&d=1205194770

Waldo

11th March 2008, 11:26 AM

Dan_6,

With merbau -hold off on the oiling for 3 months first. You need to let the tannins leach out of the timber first, oil it now and you'll stuff things up. When the merbau gets wet it'll leach black stuff, hose down and it'll wash off, you'll have to repeat this for a while.

dan_6

11th March 2008, 11:32 AM

No worries, yeah from what i'd read so far i knew it was going to be a while before it could be oiled,
Cheers
Dan

Halfie

13th May 2008, 07:20 PM

Is there any weepholes covered up by the deck?

ComboSquare

13th May 2008, 11:30 PM

dan_6

14th May 2008, 12:11 AM

Is there any weepholes covered up by the deck?
no there isnt

dan_6

14th May 2008, 12:13 AM

Dan your deck's looking good, just wondering however I notice u didn't use a waterproof membrane over your subfloor, or antcaps (are they required around your area?) Just curious also, the decking hasn't covered up the end of the bearer/ledger out from the house in your second last picture, did you rip a final board for this?

Cheers.

first i've heard on waterproof membrane, same deal on ant caps.

the end bearer is now covered up ;) will post a few pics, just need to find them, deck has now been oiled, used flood spa and deck on it, came up great.