Materials for back porch of Federation House

[Classical Dj]

Hi<o></o> As the days get excruciatingly hotter, and the sun becomes unbearably bright, the need to have a back verandah to shield the rays from the windows and North/West walls has increased.

However, due to there being no signs of any porch to speak of in my 1917 Federation/Interwar 2 storey house in Melbourne, I am unsure what materials to use and/or the style. It makes it even trickier when the front of the house has concrete pillars supporting the roof of the porch.

From what I have read on the style of verandahs in this period, there seems to be a lot of turned wood supports as well as decorative joinery, however, there is no joinery at all around the exterior of the house…This makes me think that maybe the style of the house is more interwar than federation…Anyway, another thing, what would the floor of the back porch be?

Out the front its tessellated tiles on (I’m presuming) a concrete base. But should that stay the same for out the back? Or could I get away with a merbau deck/floor??
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Any tips are greatly appreciated<o></o>

<o></o> Cheers, <o></o>
<o></o> C.D<o></o> <o>
</o>

[Barry_White]

C.D.

I would think that out the back I would consider a timber construction with say 100x100 posts and then you could use some of those fancy timber scroll pieces that Bunnings sell.

As far as the floor goes I think you would find that verandah's of that era used actual floor boards rather than decking.

Hope that helps.

[Classical Dj]

Painted timber? Would it look out of place if I put joinery on the verandah? Even if there aren't any out the front? I can send you a picture of the front view of the house if you like, if this would assist your understanding of my situation.
Also, roofing. There is no corrugated iron on the roof of the house, just tiles and a small amount of flat tin as roofing to the front verandah. Again, tin would be easier, but tiles would be more suitable? Also Gabled or flat slope?

Thanks for your help Barry

C.D

[Barry_White]

C.D.

If you used tiles you would need a reasonable slope to stop water coming in. Depending on what the front looks like painting the timber would help to preserve it.
I would be interested to see a picture of the front. Would give a better idea of what to recommend.

[addo]

I'm keen to see a pic too! :D Are the roof tiles original, or was it slated?

Usually, the level of detail peeled away as the view from streetfront became less and less. So where you may have fancy doo-dads at the front, an awning at the rear (for example) will just have plain knee braces and 2×3 construction.

Look at other similar houses for inspiration, and make sure that whatever's planned is both legit and sensible for preventing future structural or access hassles.

One big gripe I have about "repro" stuff is the old timber sizes were usually 1/8 inch under, whereas it's now 5-6mm typically. EG, old 2×4 was 1 7/8×3 7/8" when dressed whereas now it's 1¾"×3 5/8". You can notice it.

I'd be sure if you post a picture, there'll be more than the odd suggestion!

Regards, Adam.

[Dr - 307]

What I want to know is what species of timber to use. In all the work I've done I've used F7 T/Pine Dry and that has the laser cut grooves in it which I don't mind.
But what if you don't want the laser cut look and you want smooth timber surfaces? I understand some people use Oregon which I hear deteriorates very quickly.
Any suggestions?

[Barry_White]

What I want to know is what species of timber to use. In all the work I've done I've used F7 T/Pine Dry and that has the laser cut grooves in it which I don't mind.
But what if you don't want the laser cut look and you want smooth timber surfaces? I understand some people use Oregon which I hear deteriorates very quickly.
Any suggestions?

Hey Doc

For what application? Decking, Construction or what? If it is for decking treated pine is ok I suppose but I prefer good old Australian hardwood or Merbu. If it is for construction my choice is hardwood or Cypress Pine or Steel.

[Dr - 307]

For all floor members (joists and bearers I use F17 KDHW but I'm talking roof members for pergolas, verandahs and stuff.

[addo]

That's a fairly generalised list of applications! Anything with constant (more or less) exposure to the elements needs to be Class 1 for durability; this is going to vary depending on whether any part of it lies in the ground, or is in contact.

I don't like going below Class 2 even in protected sitcherations, as there's always risk of neglect, or slight water ingress; probably other unpredictables too.

So really, perhaps the answer is evaluate the application, look at the suitable timber types, then check out what's readily available in structurally suited, convenient or convertible sizes, and price them off with other considerations thrown in (tendency to check, stability, aesthetics, suitability for fastening, ease of finishing).

Hope this helps a little (BTW, is the "handle" from owning a Peugeot 307?)...

Regards, Adam.

[Classical Dj]

Hey guys
Here are the pictures I promised earlier in the thread :)

[Barry_White]

C.D.

That is a beautiful old house and if it was me and I could afford it I would build the back porch along the same lines as the front one because the value would be much greater than something basic and modern.

[seriph1]

This home is definitely worthy of sympathetic renovation work - it's great you're doing it.......It's a fantastic project. I have a number of contacts within 10 K's who will be able to provide period-correct items for you and access to a design library with numerous relevant resources. As mentioned previously, sing out if you'd like to catch up.