Wash/clean before re-oiling?

[wayneo75]

I have searched the forums for the past i/2 hour and haven't really found an answer.

I have a Jarrah outdoor table which 12 months ago was oiled with Intergrain Timber oil. It is starting to look a little dry and needs do be re-oiled.

Questions is, do I need to purchase one of the timber cleaner products on the market, or is a simple wash down with a green scourer and a bit of warm water and detergent enough before another couple of coats of oil?

[RufflyRustic]

Washing down as you've said and with maybe just a small splash of bleach would be good. Though I'd also suggest a couple of clean water rinses to get all the soap and bleach off. I'd also suggest making sure it's thoroughly dry before re-oiling, but I reckon you already knew that :rolleyes::)

cheers
Wendy

[wayneo75]

a few people have mentioned nappysan. Would that be a good alternative to detergent and bleach?

[astrid]

If the timber is greying due to exposure oxalic acid will bring back the colour.
this is a mildbleaching solution commonly sold as deck cleaner.
pre mix is expensive but you can buy it in crystal form sold in the hardware shop.
diggers make one brand.
ignor the instructions it wont disolve in cold water use neary boiling water.
this stuff is safe i often slosh it on without gloves although if it gets in a cut it will sting like hell.
wet the table first withwater to get even distribution of the solution.
then apply the OXY witha cloth
when the table is wet put it in the sun
to neutralise just wash well with water
i find this gives a better result than bleach.
you didnt mention what oil was origanally applied, if it was a danish oil or anything else with a synthetic hardener you'll have to sand back first.
if you are using a natural pure oil like linseed to finish,
put it on hot for deeper penetration.

cheers
astrid

[astrid]

sorry,
you did mention the original oil.
if it has a hadener in it you will need to sand back or the table will bleach unevenly.

astrid

[MacS]

You might want to consider using a paint remover rather then sanding off the coating.

Whenever mixing oxalic acid you must wear a mask, it can effect your lungs.

Be, sure that you remove all the crystals, flush them off with clean water.

[wayneo75]

Not to sure whether you would call the Intergrain Timber oil a "coating". It is supposed to be Tung oil, so I am thinking at the moment to just give it a "wash" rather than a "strip" or deep clean/remove the old surface.

Going to head to the hardware store soon for a look around.

[MacS]

"Not to sure whether you would call the Intergrain Timber oil a "coating". It is supposed to be Tung oil, so I am thinking at the moment to just give it a "wash" rather than a "strip" or deep clean/remove the old surface."

Tung Oil, is a reactive coating, washing it will not remove it, it may clean it, if the Tung oil is in good condition, then just clean it, and reapply the Timber oil, if its not in good condition then you will need to remove the Tung Oil, before you apply a new coat.

[wayneo75]

I think the oil is still in good condition, it is under a laser lite covered pergola and only gets full sun for an hour or two in the mornings, (so relatively protected from UV) and has never been rained on.

As you can see in the close up shot, it is really only effected by a build up of dust......I think......

[MacS]

Wayne,

Only you can see it, and can tell if the oil is still in good condition, and its just all dusty.

Once you give it a good inspection, then you can make a better decsion on what you need to do.

Good luck.

[wayneo75]

I think i will just give it a wash with the oxalic acid, if i can find some at the hardware store.......only challenge here is water restrictions....no cheating with a hose, it will have to be a bucket job.

[astrid]

wayne, if you read my post again, i said use oxalic if the timber is weathered to restore colour if u use this and there are worn patches the patches will bleach and the rest wont.
if the oil is intact and not worn just clean with warm soapy water and rinse, let dry at least 24 hours and re oil

astrid

[MacS]

Wayne,

I don't want to see you screw up your table, you not listening.

First do an inspection, if its just dusty, then wash down only a "few slats of timber" with water and add the soap but only use the "foam," use a brush, or a nylon scubbing pad, then use some paper towels or rags to partially dry the wood and wait.

You should then know if you need to recoat or strip the piece.

As Astrid, has also mentioned, don't use the oxalic if any oil has remained on the woods, any partial remaining oil will leave blotching in the wood if you use the oxalic wash.

Do a test................

[hansp77]

from your pictures, it really looks like all you will need is a warm soapy wash down and re-oil.
While this would be the best option, it looks to me that even just a re-oil by itself would still look good as the timber and condition of the old oil look great.
Forget about the oxalic acid (for at least another 5-10 yrs:wink:) its not IMO needed.

[wayneo75]

Thanks for all your replies, i am pretty confident the oils is in good shape, so warm soapy water is the go with a test runs first.

Any suggestions on soap type...dish-washing detergent?, laundry detergent/powder????

[MacS]

Photos, can be very deceiving, only you can sei it.

I would use any liquid detergent, and use only the foam suds, then use a damp cloth to take off the dust, and then wipe dry with paper towels.

Let us know how you make out, do a few boards first.

Good Luck

[wayneo75]

DONE.

Cleaning with suds, worked a treat. I used dish washing liquid and a green scouring pad.

Table now re oiled with two more coats. Looks good.

thanks for the tips.

[Neil]

For future reference.

You were right in the first place. Nappysan for all decking and outdoor furniture. This is basically all that many of the commercial decking and patio furniture cleaners are.

[ubeaut]

Also for future reference: Please do not use Oxalic Acid without gloves or other protection. Contrary to popular belief it is not safe.....

It is probably the safest and mildest of the bleaches and on the weaker end of the acid scale but it is not safe and can cause many problems including respiratory, renal and kidney. Have a look at MSDS's for all chemicals and solvents before you use them, especially if you are just slopping them on without protection for skin, eyes and respiration. It may open your eyes and help you to get into good safety habits.

Cheers - Neil :)

[MacS]

Neil,

I think that many pros who give advice must be more aware of telling the poster about the 'dangers in the chemicals" they use. Its so easy to tell a beginner to use one of the "oil finishes," but not to also mention the dangers in the oily clothes and what to do with them is criminal.

Most writers of finishing articles will always mention about wearing the right protective gear for each job they do, and that they should only work in well- lit and ventalated areas, this is a warning and a reminder that chemicals are dangerous and must be respected. One of the dangers is the odor of the chemicals which is a warning sign, many chemicals are masked by the chemist so you cannot tell by the fumes or odor. Extra care must be given to the new water base products as their odors are different, but they can be just as dangerous without the odors.

If someone answers a post without mentioning any warning, let the others include it, it would be a great add- on for the forum.