Re-polishing a cabinet. Part 2

[Shane Watson]

Right I left of yesterday with not really doing all that much, but you can't rush Glue drying! So first thing this morning was time to remove all the clamps and inspect the repairs with fingers crossed everything went ok.

http://members.dingoblue.net.au/~watfen/radiogram%20door%20after%20repair.JPG

Now although that pic dosn't show it very well, the repair went perfect so I share a sigh of releif with myself & continue on. As you can see by the follow pic the turntable is not around anymore so my client has asked if I can remove the framework that held it in place and replace it with some timber so it can be utilised as a shelf.

http://members.dingoblue.net.au/~watfen/radiogram%20shelf.JPG

I havn't fitted the new shelf yet as I will do that when I fit the new back. So next job is to remove the 'Claw & Ball' feet. Now not wanting to contradict myself I am using a paint stripper on these legs to help remove the old polish from the carving. This stripper is citrus based and it actually really good stuff and does not burn your skin, plus it does not dry out like normal stripper so theres no need to cover it with clingwrap & if you forget about it for a few hours (like I did today http://ubb.ubeaut.com.au/ubb/eek.gif ) theres no problem. This is one of the few & very rare times I will use stripper.

http://members.dingoblue.net.au/~watfen/radiogram%20feet.JPG

And while I have the cabinet upside down I can give it a damn good clean. If somethings worth doing! Its worth doing properly.

http://members.dingoblue.net.au/~watfen/radiogram%20bottom.JPG

Now its back to sanding the cabinet. I only managed to sand the top edge yesterday so I hope to get some good work in today. Now if you remember in Part 1 I mentioned that removing the top makes sanding the sides easier. Well it does, but I can't remove this top, well I could but due to the cabinets construction and materials used I would cause irriversable damage taking the top off, so I had to leave it on and use a nice sharp scraper to help clean up that tight cornor ( in this case I used my sharp chisels! http://ubb.ubeaut.com.au/ubb/eek.gif )

http://members.dingoblue.net.au/~watfen/radiogram%20side%20meets%20top.JPG

You know it dosn't matter how many times you look for lifting veneer you usually always miss some! So out with the glue and masking tape again...

http://members.dingoblue.net.au/~watfen/radiogram%20more%20repairs.JPG

Now heres a little problem I have to solve. As you can see the lower left cornor of the top has a biggish chip in need of repair. I have an idea on how I will fix this - but whats your opinon? Its a walnut veneer over a 5ply substrate, not only the walnut veneer has been chiped but two of the underlying layers have also been removed. Unfortunatly the pic isn't very clear but I think you get the idea.

http://members.dingoblue.net.au/~watfen/radiogram%20sanded%20top.JPG

And finally after a good couple of hours sanding I have managed to complete sanding the carcus. As I am only re-polishing the outside of the cabinet you will notice the inside isn't sanded. I will give it a good once over after I have finished re-polishing the outside.

http://members.dingoblue.net.au/~watfen/radiogramcab-sanded.JPG

And thats where I left it today. I still have the legs & two doors to sand then theres that repair to the top and also the new back & shelf. After that I can start prep'ing the cabinet ready for a first coat. Fingers crossed next Tuesday I manage to get that far!

Again, please leave your comments/questions here & I will post Part 3 in a new topic.

Cheers & I hope your enjoying this!


------------------
Shane Watson..

Combine Love & Skill & You Can Expect A Masterpiece! SO
Work like you don't need the money... Love like you've never been hurt...
Dance like nobodys watching...

[Smithy]

Shane - really enjoying your article - what a great idea to show the sequence.

I recently restored a table which had damaged veneer including sublevel of particleboard. After a couple of attempts to fix and get the exact same flat surface level on the repair as the rest of the table top I finally had success by inlaying a piece of timber.

I managed to get some timber which matched the veneer. I routed the damaged area to a depth of about 6mm and inlaid my piece of solid timber. I made the shape irregular and just a bit bigger than the damaged area.

I was then able to sand it perfectly flush with the rest of the table top.

Looking fwd to part 3.

[Smithy]

Should have mentioned that before final sanding I used the router to "plane" the insert flush with the rest of the table top.

[John Saxton]

Question Shane?
Have all the 'electrics'been removed from the cabinet as would be the usual thing or are they still in situ?

The question arose because it looked like they were still there and if so what of the detrimental affects of the finishing product to them?

The thought that something built back when was knee high to a grasshopper and then subject to your graceful expertise in finishing is tantamount to Agent Orange on tomorrows youngsters?

Seriously tho and I no doubt the craftsman that you are have considered the above and I'm just yankin' meself thru another Bushy
whilst pointin' out things me ol blearies have still to come to grips with.

If forgotten and the parts left 'in situ' what would be possibly the effect of todays technology in finishe's on yesterdays product
which may be sensitive?

Just some thoughts thru a glass of chrissie bushy hic.... http://ubb.ubeaut.com.au/ubb/smile.gif

------------------
Johnno

[Shane Watson]

Hahah how many glasses were you having? http://ubb.ubeaut.com.au/ubb/wink.gif

Yeah your right all the electrics are still in place! http://ubb.ubeaut.com.au/ubb/eek.gif

Only because there at no risk what so ever if left, but if removed could be damaged. Remember I am not re-finishing the inside of the cabinet, it should become a little clearer today if I can manage to get the effort to get into the workshop after a long weekend of relaxing! http://ubb.ubeaut.com.au/ubb/biggrin.gif

Cheers!