What is Pavelock?

[Edmund33]

Can someone please tell me what the difference is between Pavelock and Paveset? Benefits and disadvantages??????? Any info will be gratefully received:?

[joe greiner]

Google [pavelock OR paveset] for descriptions of each.

Joe

[pawnhead]

He might be after someone with personal experience rather than a company spiel.

I can't help you Edmund, but someone may. Welcome to the forums. It's a great place to hang out and there's heaps of woodwork/building info here if you do a search. :2tsup:

[zathras]

I must admit I've googled pavelock when I first heard about it a year ago and was VERY hard pressed to find any info on the product.

From what I've heard, it goes in like sand and turns into some sort of sticky mess when it gets wet which bonds the pavers together.

Does anybody have practical experience with this product, because googling is a bit sparse on real world details I'm afraid. Plenty of sales pitch though.

[Colin Howkins]

Edmund,

Have laid a few pavers, and my spin on it is this:
Pavelock: Is where the design of the pieces you are laying down interlock with each othe
Paveset: Is where you are using either a rectangular or square paver

Colin Howkins
Graceville Qld

[Tankstand]

The mob that paved my pool area used pavelock. Yes it turns rubbery, but it has dislodged in lumps and come out of a few larger gaps especially where the pavers meet the fiberglass (Inground pool).

[Bleedin Thumb]

Mate I've been laying pavers for years and never used those products (that I have been aware of).
I take it that you are taking about products that you sweep between the pavers that aid in achieving "lock up" - do a search I have described this before.

Lock up normally occurs around 2 months or more after laying. These products can be of benefit if you have steep inclines where erosion of your jointing sand may occur. Also if you have an ant problem.

I can't tell you which is best, I hear that they are OK but don't waste your money unless you have a problem area.

[brickman]

Have used "pavelok" for a number of years , remember being halfway through a job when it became impossible to source any more in the year 2000 as they were building the village for the sydney olympics and every bag they produced was sent there . Practical advice - it says on the bag helps prevent weeds in pavers ( load of crap ) , - it says on the bag not to use with crusher dust as the bedding material ( eveyone does , - dearer than any other sand ( $14.00 20 k bag ) , is it worth using - definitely , when you tip a bag on the pavers and it literally flows into the joints you know you are comprehensively filling every void between the pavers and even underneath them if any .The only trap is the pavers must be bone dry as any left remaining sand on top becomes difficult to clean , so can become quite stressfull if any impending showers are on the horizon .

[Bleedin Thumb]

Brickman I can't see why you may need it - except if you have a fair slope where the joints will always wash out.

I usually just use beach sand which is enevitably damp so you scatter it around with your boots till its dry and then sweep it in. Even if you miss some (you always do) dirt will eventually find its way in there and do the job.

It just seems to be a lot of money for what will happen over time anyway. If your paving fails within a couple of months its more likey to be your bedding or subbase .

[Planned LScape]

I use it for butt-jointed clay pavers, where even triple washed sand takes ages and the grains are too small to fall into the gaps. Some pavers only have gaps of a few mm and the pavelok/quicklok sand being already chemically dried instantly fills up every void inbetween each paver and you don't have to come back later to sweep the dried sand back in. It has a component of silica in it which is flexible, but still retains strength. But like others said make sure it is completely swept in before giving a light spray otherwise you get a look which resembles snails leaving trails all over the place.

It is recommended to use it for joints 3-5mm, for anything other than butt jointed I still use fine triple washed sand and thoroughly compact it in with the whacker