finishing red gum table top

[back yarder]

Hi,
I am starting on the tabletop for my new redgum slab dinning table (2 sepperate slab peices that will not be joined).
The slabs been sanded by a large belt sander already but needs to be sanded properly and then finished. As a new woodworker I would like advise on what is the best method and materials to use. I am looking for a satin finish. I have a belt, random and finishing sanders, I also have organoil for floors and hard burnishing and I have purchased some EEE product.
I have started sanding and have noticed that there is some short wavey flows in the grain that don't seem to sand out and to the touch they are smooth but I am worried that this is not the correct. they look like some growth shapes in the timber and are at the outside (near the grey bark edge) and inside (towards the centre of the tree) of the slab, the centre of these peices of slab are normal.
Any advise will be appreciated.
Thanks

[LGS]

Sounds like fiddleback. Could you post some pics please?

LGS

[back yarder]

see attached
the marks are on the right side slab on the inside they look like machine marks but are not.

[back yarder]

more pics of table top

[wombat]

That's curly grain or fiddleback, its natural grain, not much you can do about it

[DJ’s Timber]

If you're talking about the bits that I have circled, it's Fiddle-back in the grain which is common in Redgum particularly along the edge of the slab and when the whole log has it all the way through it, it is highly sought after.

The picture in my avatar is a closeup of a piece which is about 75mm x 100mm

edit: darn you post some more pics while I was editing your pic and replying.

That is definitly Fiddleback,

[back yarder]

thanks gents.
what about the recommended finishing method
I hear the term wet sanding would this be a starting point
I must have bought a thousand sheets of paper but does wet sanding mean I should be using wet and dry paper on the ros?

[BrettC]

You are correct wet sanding would be sanding in the normal way i.e dry up to around 240 - 320 grit and then moving onto wet sanding using higher grits on the ROS. A method I have been meaning to get around to trying but havent yet (too busy building my workbench) is the one used by Lignum, hopefully he doesn't mind me posting it here



Use Wattyl (only wattyl) Scandinavial oil and flood the top and wait half an hour to soak and flood it again, then wet sand it going through the grits from 400# up to 2000# or 4000#
Very Important NOT to wipe off excess inbetween grits as the slurry is the important part (also acts as a grain filler) Wait only a few minutes before moving to the next grit. And when you put a new grit on the ROS wet the paper before you start to sand. When you get up to the higher grits there isnt as much oil left and you will be buffing with friction/heat from the disc. After the highest grit you can buff with a clean soft rag or go one step further and use EEE and one of them swansong mops to polish to mirror finish.

Best part is it dosnt take long and dirty dusty conditions wont effect the final finish. I have seen tops done over 3 months ago and they still have there depth and shine like they were just done. And the best bit if it gets dammaged its just a simple matter of another coat of oil and a 2000 or 4000# and bingo, back to perfect.

This is a brilliant method of finishing shown to me by a former member of this forum, and in all the years of trying to come up with a simple method that is nearly perfect, this is the best method by far i have used, and will only be doing furniture this way in the future. :)

Forgot to add, im at an advatage as im ROSing with the worlds greatest ever finishing sander, the 150/3:wink:

[back yarder]

does he refer to wet and dry paper like the type I have used to rub back spray paint on cars etc.
If so where do you get this grades for use on the ROS.
I haven't seen any yet that are real wet and dry only normal wood papers up to about 320
cheers

[rsser]

My guess backyarder is that he's referring to normal velcro backed paper, and yes, I've not seen it at those higher grades in the local h/w either.

[DJ’s Timber]

My guess would be that he is would be using the 150mm Platin 2 (http://www.idealtools.com.au/category3471_1.htm) made by Festool, also available in 125mm Platin 2 (http://www.idealtools.com.au/category16_1.htm).

You can also get other paper types as well from Festool, but I think from memory that the hole patterns only match the Festool sanders, you would need to check this out but isn't a prob with the Platin 2 as they don't have holes.

[back yarder]

i have just picked up some festool 120 240 for dry and 400 1500 for wet.
they guy there gave me some advise on how to go about the finish with the oil, looks like i have a lot more sanding coming this weekend.
any methods of finishing with the organoil would help.

[LGS]

I would suggest you use the method that Lignum has supplied. I can gaurantee you a finish to knock your socks off! As a final finish, try using Wipe on Poly (Satin) or Trad wax from UBeaut. Also, buy yourself a 2000 and 4000g Platin 2 pad and use these after the 1500 with no extra oil. With this finish, I can read subtitles on the tele in the reflection froom the red gum. (See below for RG coffee table and a RG finger jointed box.
As far as sanding goes, if you are using a Festool RO125 or 150, you need only spend enough time with the lower grades to rid the piece of stiping and with finer grades you should only need to pass the sander over the piece 3-4 times. Removing the slurry between grits or running your hand over the piece during processing should be avoided. If you need more oil, add it to the pad, NOT the piece.

Regards,

LGS

[back yarder]

thanks team,
i will start this on the weekend and will post a few pick to look at when the job is finished.
thanks again.