fridge doesnt fit

[andrew29]

Hi Everyone,

Just moved into a new house and the number one project has become very clear... The fridge doesn't fir in the space in the kitchen!!

The fridge space is between a wall and a kitchen unit. The wall is immovable so I figure I need to cut about 50mm off the kitchen unit.
The kitchen unit is pretty standard with a laminex benchtop (over mdf?) and the cupboard under is white laminex. All pretty standard I think!

I figure it shouldn't be too hard to pull apart the cupboard part and cut it to the new sizer and reapply some laminate edges.

The benchtop seems to be the more challenging bit. Do I need to pull the whole top off to cut it? or can I cut most of it with a circular saw and then use a handsaw to cut the final bit up to the tile splashback?

Any tips/comments/thoughts are much appreciated!

I'll make a start on it tonight hopefully

[echnidna]

Get a new frig

[dennford]

Get a new frig

Then your other half will be happy and that is the time to suggest new tools.

Denn

[dennford]

but as for the bench top. So long as no one has tiled the splashback and the tiles are over the top of the bench (hope you understand what I mean there) why not use a jig saw with a flush cutting blade? - one that goes right to the edge.

Denn

[Ivan in Oz]

Andrew,
Could you move the WHOLE Bench Top, Wholus Bolus?

[andrew29]

We already got a new fridge that someone didn't want... Its the same size as the old fridge, so we actually have 2 fridges that don't fit. I reckon the hole is a 'smaller than average' fridge hole...

Denford I didnt realise there was a flush cutting blade for a jigsaw. Can you get one that fits in any old jigsaw? Alas the splashback is tiled and is immediately above the benchtop, although I could remove a tile temporarily I spose...

Ivan I'm hoping to avoid moving the whole bench. I reckon the possibility of me stuffing something up if I take the whole thing off is quite high. The sink would need moving and the sealant etc etc.

[Ivan in Oz]

How about the Garrage?
I have a fridge in the Garage:2tsup:

Just while you get it
or yourself, sorted.
No BIG Rush then; inconvenient yes:(

[munruben]

I think the biggest problem you might face is removing the tile over the workbench without damaging it unless you have some spare. The rest of the job shouldn't present too much problem that I can see. good luck.:wtg:

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

IMHO you're better off removing at least that section of benchtop to trim it - it makes it far easier to mount a straight edge for use as a fence to help ensure you cut a straight line. A jig-saw would be one of my last choices of tools to use, as it's very hard to get a dead-straight line with one unless you've had a lot of practice. A router is better.

Removing the top would also allow you to clamp a piece of sacrificial ply or similar to top and bottom, to help prevent the laminate from chipping out.

And you really do want a dead-straight, chip free edge if you're going to laminate the final edge.

And before you commit yourself to making the cut, I'd be inclined to make a "trial cut" of, say, around 1/2" first just so you can see how well your planned methods are going to work. If it goes 'orribly wrong, well... no real harm done 'cos that piece'll be trimmed off anyway, right? Of course, it'd also mean that you have no choice but to go ahead and try some other method, but better that than have to replace the 'top or try to live with a hack job. :wink:


Alas the splashback is tiled and is immediately above the benchtop, although I could remove a tile temporarily I spose...

You could always remove the tiles up to the next grout line past your mark and cut the bench there, which'd also give you some extra leeway in fitting the 'frig & ensure you can open the door. Unless they're LARGE tiles, in which case it'd be more a matter of luck that there's a grout line in a suitable spot. :shrug:

I've always thought it looks tacky and very "home-handyman" to have half a tile overhanging the end of a bench. :p

[durwood]

I've just had a similar problem. Our fridge was destroyed in an electrical surge. All the new fridges are different sizes to those available 10 years ago. So in any kitchen which is not brand new may you may not be able to replace your fridge with one the same dimentions.

I'm assuming the end of the bench top when the cupboard is reduced (or removed ) is sticking out by itself so you can then cut off the 50mm.

I was able to use a flush trim router bit to do most of the length of the cut by clamping a piece of MDF back the distance from the end (50mm in your case) and then gradually cutting off the excess till the bit touched the MDF and I got a good straight edge.

This gave a smooth straight cut without any risk of going off line etc. It also eliminated any chance of chipping the laminate as a jig saw might do as it cuts on the upward stroke. (Though I do have blades for my jigsaw that cut on the downstroke I don't think you can get them now)

The last bit at the back I cut with a Japanese pull saw from below, I used the MDF to help prevent wandering. At the wall I used a sharp chisel to cut the final 1/4". Being a fine blade and taking it slowly the cut was really good.

[dennford]

It sounds like one of those jobs that needs to be seen to get a true perspective. You say it is tiled over the back of the bench top so you will definitely have to remove one row of tiles and in my experience that usually leads to retiling the whole splashback. As for your question about the flush cutting blades, they are not too common but I think they are available for most jigsaws. Also keep in mind what skew said about a straight line cut with them - the chipping could be minimised by using a reverse cut blade (one that cuts on the down stroke).

When I start a job like this it usually starts as a minor bench mod', then becomes a bench replace, then a retile and finally a kitchen rebuild.

Denn

[durwood]

Andrew,

Just thought of something else you may have not determined yet. Doing the bench top was a breeze BUT getting my new fridge was big problem.

If the fridge is up against a wall unless it opens from the opposite side to the wall it may not open when in place even with the benchtop and cupboard shortened.

My wall was on the right hand side which meant I had to have a fridge which was hinged from the left side as when most fridges open they open wider than the fridge width. Normally its not a problem as your cupboards are not as deep as the fridge but with a wall if its longer than the depth of the fridge you might not be able to get it open passed about 1/4 open before it hit the wall.

My problem was most fridges open the opposite way and they sent the first one hinged on the right then the right one hinged on the left but damaged and finally a correct undamaged one 7 weeks later!!! Hope your problem hasn't been made worse and you have lucked out and have the fridge which opens the right way or doesn't need the space to the side of it at the wall !!

[Sybarite]

Andrew,

Just thought of something else you may have not determined yet. Doing the bench top was a breeze BUT getting my new fridge was big problem.

If the fridge is up against a wall unless it opens from the opposite side to the wall it may not open when in place even with the benchtop and cupboard shortened.

My wall was on the right hand side which meant I had to have a fridge which was hinged from the left side as when most fridges open they open wider than the fridge width. Normally its not a problem as your cupboards are not as deep as the fridge but with a wall if its longer than the depth of the fridge you might not be able to get it open passed about 1/4 open before it hit the wall.

My problem was most fridges open the opposite way and they sent the first one hinged on the right then the right one hinged on the left but damaged and finally a correct undamaged one 7 weeks later!!! Hope your problem hasn't been made worse and you have lucked out and have the fridge which opens the right way or doesn't need the space to the side of it at the wall !!


This is a significant issue in regards to the design of modern kitchens - what makes it worse is the current trend for those 1000mm wide dual door fridges - with those it doesn't matter at which end the fridge is placed, one needs to leave an extra void (in the cavity or next to the cabinetry) for those mongreal doors -and the doors seem to be getting thicker and thicker, which only adds to the problem.

This is a point that is really worth considering when planning that next kitchen reno.

Cheers,

[andrew29]

Hi everyone,

thanks for all the comments and suggestions.

Durwood thand heaps for the comment about the way the fridge door opens. Luckily its the side away from the wall which means no dramas.

I like the idea of using a flush trim router bit to make the cut. So the idea is to clamp the straight edge (mdf) under the benchtop so that the wheel on the bottom of the router blade runs along the mdf? Not sure how I'll clamp the straight edge though when i can only access one edge...

I'll upload a couple of photos to give everyone some more to work with.

thanks again for all the help.
54387

[andrew29]

another one

[durwood]

This is similar to the router bit I used, with this you could put the MDF on top of the bench and just clamp it away from where the router needed to be.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ELITE-FLUSH-TRIM-ROUTER-BIT-W-TOP-BOTTOM-BEARING-1-2_W0QQitemZ280146296460QQihZ018QQcategoryZ50387QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


This guy's prices are great but he stings you on the postage to Australia.

[Dirty Doogie]

I can see it now - in a few weeks there will be post by Andrew asking for help with a kitchen reno ....Lol.

Andrew, cutting 50 mm off a fixed benchtop and cabinetry is going to be tricky me thinks. The potential for disaster (not to mention mess) is very great.

Maybe sell both fridges and buy a more suitable size as someone suggested is the safest option.

[Dirty Doogie]

OK - here is what I'd do -




Examine the kickboard - is it the type built into the cabinet - or does it clip onto legs fitted under the cabinet. If you have the leg type note where the leg is attached to the cabinet (carcass) . I suspect you may have to take the cabinet out to reposition the leg and cut the kickboard down as well. Remove the kickboard if it is a clip on type.

My experience tells me that if you need another 50mm width to fit the fridge in then you'd have to cut 75 mm off the cabinet. Fridges need an air space at the side to stop condensation and to stop strange noises being created when the compressor is going.

If you push a fridge hard up against kitchen cabinetry or a wall, all sorts of strange vibrations and buzzing can occur even in other rooms as vibration can be transmitted to metal plumbing under the sink if it is in the same block of cabinets.

So it may be that you need to cut more off the cabinet than you thought!

The approach I would take is to remove the cabinet before touching the benchtop. having the cabinet removed makes it easier to rebuild and easier to cut the benchtop.

Look inside the cabinet for screw heads holding the cabinet to its neighbour, holding the bench top down, holding cabinet to the wall. Take those screws out. If you've got adjustable legs wind the leg down a few millimeters. Cabinet should now move a little bit and the front of the benchtop should lift a millimeter or so at the end corner. If the cabinet can be moved out - have a beer!

If it can't - check for more screws. Check everywhere. If there are screws in the outside of the end panel (the ones I can see in the pic) take them out.

Before moving cabinet out cut a piece of timber to hold the end of the benchtop up.

If cabinet doesnt move then my plan is stuffed and I'll have to devise another.:C

Go and try it and report back...

Doog

[andrew29]

thought i'd report back and let you all know how the fridge reno went.

this is what happened.


prized the side of the unit off a bit so we could cut a bit off the kickboard and pull the side of the uniot off completely.
pulled the front and back facia boards off the screws we couldn't get at.
scored the benchtop with a straight edge and a tile scorer.
jigsawed the top with a straight edge, and finished the bit near the tiles with a hacksaw blade then a chisel.
cut down the door and the shelf.
put it all back together.Its not 100% perfect but i'd put it at a 90%.

Thanks for all the advice and tips, they are much appreciated.