Wax & Danish Oil

[Ausworkshop]

Just finished some Blackwood trays with Cabots Danish Oil because I like a bit of polyurathene. Ive used rustins which is nice and rich, doesnt go off in the tin as fast but found that it appears to dry out if not re-applied often because of the lack of poly.

My question is, Ive just started using traditional wax and love the result on top of the danish oil and now am going to use eee polish for the first time.

Can I use eee between coats or should I wait until after the final coat?
Should I have used some before the oil after sanding to 1200?
Will using eee effect the surface with wax so the oil won't soak in properly?

[RufflyRustic]

Waxes are the last coat to use, especially over oils, imho.

I'd finish the oiling of the piece, let it dry, then EEE it. Then I'd wax it with Trad Wax. After a bit of use it might need another polish - a bit more trad wax should do it, or even eee then trad wax.

But I really don't think it's a good idea to ever try oiling a piece after it's been waxed.

On the other side of the coin, if you did need to oil it again, I think you'd have to ensure the wax is totally removed first.

hmm, UBeaut's polish reviver might be a good option for you too.

cheers
Wendy

[munruben]

But I really don't think it's a good idea to ever try oiling a piece after it's been waxed.
Absolutely not.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Agreed. I'll use EEE as a finishing buff after I've built up my coats of oil, but you're asking for heartache if you use it at any time before the final coat goes on.

Which is a PITA, as for my turnings I automatically reach for the EEE as the final step in my sanding procedure... even when I intend an oil finish. Resulting in yet more sanding once I realise I've booboo'd and I just luuurve sanding. Not. :rolleyes:

[LGS]

Hi Andrew,
You could try this protocol. Guaranteed to give good results.

I start by sanding the workpiece at 80grit, then 100,120,150,240 and 400g using ROS with the 400 and OS with the others. At this point, I wipe the surface with Turps, let it dry and then flood with oil (my standard is Wattyl Scandinavian Oil as it is a liquid, which does not tend to set while sitting on the timber.)
After flooding, I allow about 10 minutes, (depending on the timber) for the oil to soak in. Then I apply a second coat with a soft cloth, so the surface of the workpiece is wet and begin sanding with the 400g I have just used with the sander on ROS. A slurry should begin to build up and the timber will appear rather "muddy".It's then time to change to 600g. Applying oil to the sanding pad so that it is wet will give all the lubrication you need. Do not wipe off the slurry or add oil to the timber surface.
Repeat this process through 800,1200 and 1500g.
I now pull out the Platin 2 pads and use 2000g and 4000g without the addition of oil, and then wipe the piece down with a soft cloth and its done.
It sounds excessive, but try it against your standard method and let me know what you think.
I do not believe it necessary to use anything like Tripoli powder or pumice after this method. Poly, wax or probably even Shellac or other water based finishes should be fine over the top.
Each sanding is contiguous (no waiting) and requires only 5 or 6 strokes across the piece, so its actually quite fast. )Using a Festool RO150FEQ ROS)
If you use China Wood Oil, or Tung oil you should have no problems. I know China Wood oil will give a brilliant finish, but will not have the "high gloss" effect that the Scandinavian oil will. It's great for a satin lustre.

Rob