Strip Footings for Strawbale Chook Shed

[Grunt]

As a bit of practice I'm going to build a 5x6m chook shed/greenhouse.

As I want a dirt floor in the chook shed I've decided that the I'd do strip footings.

Straw bales are 450mm wide plus there is 50mm of render on each side of the bale. This means I need to have footings that are 550mm wide.

The chook shed has to be fox proof so I want to have the footing go at least 200mm deep and to prevent flooding and to keep the bales well away from the ground I'll need 100mm above ground.

This means that I'll need around 3.6m3 of concrete. I'd rather not spend that much on concrete.

Straw bale walls have greater surface area than bricks and weigh considerably less as well, so the strength requirement isn't so high.

I was thinking of doing something like this.


http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=53254&stc=1&d=1187253205

With the white bit at the bottom being dirt.

Or I could do something like this.

http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=53255&stc=1&d=1187253452

I would use a bit of steel meshing in the top for strength. I figure I'd use make the thinest part of the footings about 150mm thick.

Importantly, this is a chook shed.

Advice welcome.
Chris

[echnidna]

Strip footings mean you need to go down to the clay (or sand) base.
They don't float on top of the ground like a slab

[ozwinner]

Strip footings mean you need to go down to the clay (or sand) base.
They don't float on top of the ground like a slab

I would agree Bob if it was for a house, but for a chook shed I think on top of the ground would be ok.

Al :)

[Priemsy]

I'd go rock and stabilised mud myself. I intend to use that sort of footings for mud brick walls on my future chookshed.

Paul

[Cliff Rogers]

I'd go with the 2nd option Grunt....
It gives you your base for for the bales,
a ratwall (put it on the outside) for the vermin &
it is easier to dig that the 1st one.

[derekh]

How about using a rubble trnch footing with either gravel filled besser bricks or a 100mm bond beam. Another method is rubble trench with gravel filled sandbags. See http://www.glassford.com.au/Other_methods.htm for other methods.

[Cliff Rogers]

rubble trench
Hmmmmm :think: not a bad idea BUT!!!!
It will need a cap to keep the termites out 'cos the buggers will even eat cardboard & paper if they are hungry enough. :cool:

[OBBob]

It's going to be one cool chook shed!! Maybe a little over-engineered but I'm sure they'll appreciate it.

[Vernonv]

What about a "T" shaped footing. The top could be 550 x 100 and the beam 100(or maybe 150) x 200 deep??

Best of both worlds ... also easier to dig.

[ozwinner]

Hmmmmm :think: not a bad idea BUT!!!!
It will need a cap to keep the termites out 'cos the buggers will even eat cardboard & paper if they are hungry enough. :cool:

:U Cliff, trust me, termites couldnt live at Lancefield as its too cold, apart from the 4 weeks of summer they get ..:U:U

Al :roll:

[markharrison]

The only thing that is Fox-proof is a 12 Guage!

On my Grand Parents farm a python got in to the chook pen, swallowed a chook and then couldn't get out!

I think you have to accept a certain amount of predation in a rural environment.

[Tonyz]

Grunt, while Iam not putting down any or all the ideas so far. The guy Brian Hodge who does regular segments in Owner Builder mag loves getting Q. Esp. those out of the ordinary. Contact him via the mag or if you want his email PM me.

[Grunt]

Thanks for the info everyone.

I did Brian's course earlier this year. Excellent course.

I've hired him as a consultant for the house building and I talked to him yesterday. He just got back from holidays and was really busy, so I didn't get a chance to ask him the foundations.

I hired an excavator. Big boys toy. :D:D:D
It'll make light work of the trenches.

After doing a bit more research I think I'll do the rubble trench footings. Not too exe and quite simple. I like the idea of the tyre footings. I remember reading about them 3 or so years back but they're a bit too much work.

Chris