gable end and corner cuts

[Amb]

I'm putting up the walls of my new colourbond shed. Its got the standard monclad wall sheets. Can anyone tell me how to cut the angle on the long sheets that cover the gable ends -should I fixing them to the frame, then cut them, or mark them, take them down, then cut them? What's should I use to cut them? Also where do I cut the sheets to make them fit for the corners (I'm using 75x75 corner flashing). Thanks for any advice.

[johnm64]

When I did the ends of my shed I fixed the sheets into position on one end and cut them by hand with snips while standing on the ladder 3.5m high.:no:

The second end I fixed together on the floor , measured it all up , transferred the measurements onto the sheets and cut them on the ground with a grinder with a cutting disc and then fixed them to the end.:2tsup:

Both ways worked but the second way keeps the beer within reach.:D

johnm64:)

[DNL]

G'day - I'm about to do my gable ends today. Place the sheets up in the correct order, fix in place. Then run a chalk line from wall sheet end to the roof apex - using the top of the roof trusses or top hat (aka roof purlin - or roof batten) as your guide for the cut line line.

Once you chalk the cut line, use either a 4" grinder with a cutting wheel to cut the sheets - or a nibbler if you have one.

With the end corners for flashing, take your sheets flush with the end of the shed. You may get a little overlap with the wall sheet, but this doesn't matter as you will cover this with the 75x75 flashing. Any small flaws on the corner joins will be covered with the flashing.

Basically, put your sheets up, mark the angles - cut.

cheers and hope this helps

[Yonnee]

I did pretty much the same thing. The sheets are big enough to handle by yourself anyway, let alone putting them up, then down, then up again.

I put a nick in each end of the sheets (one at gable, one at gutter) and used this to wedge the string line. Mark and cut, (I used angle grinder) and while I had the ladder there, I fixed off the rest of the screws (only had the overlaps to get the sheets up). Tin snips are better as they don't burn the sheet as it cuts, or for around $30.00, I have a diamond tipped wheel that I use for cutting the intricate bits in floor & wall tiles and this seemed to work a treat as it didn't heat up the sheet nearly as much.

And if you're worried about rust, get a small tin of bitumen based paint and paint any cut edges. I also used this around the bottom of the sheets where the concrete sits as concrete is corrosive.

Good luck.

Yonnee.

[billbeee]

If I cut with a grinder I go to a lot of trouble to clean the swarf off the roof or sheeting. It's easy to forget and later you get rust spots.
Also if I use a grinder, I allow say 5 mm extra and then cut neatly with snips. An edge cut with snips doesn't rust.
Cheers
Bill

[DNL]

And if you're worried about rust, get a small tin of bitumen based paint and paint any cut edges. I also used this around the bottom of the sheets where the concrete sits as concrete is corrosive.



Yonnee - thanks for that tip - very useful. Any particular brand - I take it will be available at :oo:bunnings? Do you just paint the edge or a small lap on each side to make sure it is all covered?

cheers
DNL

[Yonnee]

Bunnings do sell Orminoid, but any bitumen paint will do. I worked for autObarn and used the K&H aerosol for the tight spots. I painted from the bottom of the sheet to above where the concrete level.
I'd do a bit of an overlap to seal it properly.