Tassie Oak

[grichting]

We are brave beginners in the art of cabinelt making and have embarked on a TAssie Oak bookshelf in a hutch and cabinet arrangement. But our questions concerns the finishing process: is Tassie oak deemd 'porous' and in need of 'filling' before starting finishing? What do you all recommend for finishing this expensive piece of furniture? I gather that quality wood and quality construction should have a French plished finish. Can anyone recommend the approriate products? And what sorts of stains look good on Tassie Oak- or does it need a stain?

[Shane Watson]

Would have answered this sooner, but have been down sth in Brisbane for a few days.

Tassi oak, some would put in the same catorgory as pine, cheap and readily available with plain grain features, therfor not a 'much sort after timber like cedar for example'. Thats not my thoughts. But it can be obtained rather cheaply. I have bought Tassi oak for less than the price of R.pine!!

All Oaks can be very open grained, and yes therfor a grainfiller 'Can' be used. But its not neccessary, in fact I refuse to use grainfillers on any timber as they tend to cloud the grain and quite often shows in the open pores after finishing. So to help fill any open grain I use a sanding sealer, depending on how open the grain is this sealer usually fills any open grain.

Any type of finish can be used to finish it. On all my NEW furniture I build I finish with a 2-part lacquer (not recommended for the home handyman though). But pre-cat lacquers work fine down south. Then theres waxes and oils and yes French polishing. Although, to be classed as 'Fine Furniture' french polishing isn't a mandatory requirement. Although some would disagree with this point. Quite often though its a combination of different finishing systems that different manufactures use.

Tassi-oak dosn't 'need' staining, but because it is a light coloured timber, like pine, it can be stained to match in with existing clients colours schemes. I actually find it easier to tone the colour rather than stain the timber directly. That way a more uniform colour is achieved.

What methods you use will really be determined by your time, experience and expense budget for the piece. Different finishing systems(methods) require a different level of experience, time and also cost.

I have been fairly broad in my reply so if you want more info, just ask http://ubb.ubeaut.com.au/ubb/wink.gif

Cheers..



------------------
Shane Watson..

Combine Love & Skill & You Can Expect A Masterpiece!

[Rod Smith]

G'day
I have always stained T Oak and find it comes up very well. I like the old english oak look and achieve a similar look, well colour anyway. I use a bitumen based concoction, similar to that used on baltic pine. I don't fill the grain, and use pre cat lac usually. Any finish is ok I think. I'm to ignorant to know how to use shellac. Personally couldn't compare it to rad pine in any way including price here in adelaide, about double. Oh, it does come from a tree though. Make 2 pieces of furniture, one from pine and one from t oak and check the difference, oak has got more class, - and weight. The look thing is particularly more impressive comparison if both pieces utilise veneer board. See ya, Rod

[Rod Smith]

PS. I have used other stains besides the above and seems to take them nicely. Its definately about personal preference but I think that Tas oak is a bit insiped(s?) raw. But then again in a finished piece it would probably look good. Good luck

[ubeaut]

http://www.ubeaut.com.au/ubhome.htm
Click on Shellac Flakes or French Polish also look at the bttom of Talc page.

Your ordered copy of "A Polishers Handbook" will be a big help to you when it arrives.

Don't be affraid of using shellac it is not at all hard to use.

Hope this helps a little.

Cheers - Neil http://ubb.ubeaut.com.au/ubb/smile.gif

[Roger Peine]

G'day. I've been using Tas' Oak a bit of late and after careful selection and even more care preparing........ I put down a liberal coat of Raw Linseed oil, allow it to soak a bit and wipe the thing real well with a rag or three. After a day i put down a brushed coat of Blonde shellac. ( Now if i want to stain, adding a bit of desired colour with a spirit type stain to shellac )

Allow to dry well.... Fine sand, rub a coat of say.... Danish oil and finished with a wax when dry... Hey, it works for me...
roj

[Rod Smith]

Thanks for the info Neil. I have read about using shellac as a sealer for knots or pine to even out staining. Also on antiques to retain their value. The recent thread on the subject certainly stirred my interest, including the use of animal glues. Years ago I had come to the conclusion that modern glues and finishes are superior to the old stuff, but maybe, just maybe, I might have to re-assess. That book looks like a must and at $23, a bargain. Do I get a set of steak knives? I think I'll order that one after the christmas rush is over. I dunno Neil, a published author. What talent.
See ya. Rod

[Iain]

(vanity press Rod, vanity press, shhhh)