PDA

View Full Version : Gizmo for storage of scaffolding planks















MrFixIt
22nd May 2007, 05:11 AM
Hi

I have several scaffolding planks that I needed to store. They used to live for quite some time under the Range Rover in the garage. This messed up the floor space if I wanted to do some other work in the garage.

Now although this is a two car garage, it only JUST manages to hold two cars, I have to fold in the drivers side mirror to get past the central mullion (what a pita! :( )

Anyway, due to this miniscule space on the sides of the garage my thoughts on wall storage for these planks revolved around some kind of "narrow" bracket. I was contemplating some tubular steel designs when the idea struck!

I was going to bolt these tubular brackets to the wall with large rawlplugs and lag bolts - AHA! why not just use the lag bolts for the plank support?

So that's what I did with a "turnbuckle" made from 15x3mm flatbar about 75mm long. The turnbuckle hole is offset to make it drop vertical and support the plank below.

See the images for how it works....

So now my plank storage is only 15mm wider than the plank itself - BTW it makes access to the plank very simple and easy :D

I hope this idea helps someone else.

rod@plasterbrok
22nd May 2007, 11:19 AM
Very clever, the only change I would make is fix into the brick not the mortar. With a bit of use the bolts could come lose.

Cheers

MrFixIt
22nd May 2007, 02:04 PM
Hi

Very clever, the only change I would make is fix into the brick not the mortar. With a bit of use the bolts could come lose.
Thanks Rod.

Re The bricks/mortar location, I have been down that track (on forums) before many times :D

My dad was a GOOD bricklayer and he always advised the use of the mortar location. The reason being that there is always solid mortar between the bricks wheras the bricks are hollow or have holes within them.

Of course these days in the situation of quick turnaround (laying bricks), lack of QUALITY tradesmen, cost cutting using less mortar or worse still LESS cement and the risk of "holes" in the mortar has drastically increased.

So I guess it's siz of one..etc.

BTW small rawlplugs are fine in bricks, but the use of Dynabolts or Loxins leave much to be desired within brick installation. As these devices grip at the INNER end where the inner end my well be within a hole in the brick. With mortar installation you can be sure of at least gripping between the bricks if not within the full surround of mortar.

Ausworkshop
22nd May 2007, 02:38 PM
Good points made about the bricks, I often do it into the mortor and have got sick of arguing with people about it:2tsup:

Ashore
22nd May 2007, 04:28 PM
I also use the mortar when fixing and like others have to argue the point :D

rod@plasterbrok
22nd May 2007, 04:52 PM
Interesting, I guess I stand corrected!

Cheers

rat52
22nd May 2007, 04:58 PM
It is also easier to repair holes in mortar than bricks when you make a mistake or change your mind.

MrFixIt
22nd May 2007, 06:23 PM
Hi

Just a side note to the bricks/mortar use.

DO NOT use the mortar if you need to go close to the top corner of a none load bearing wall. A Dynabolt and ESPECIALLY a Loxin can easily generate enough force to split the mortar joint.

Personally I would not recommend using Dynabolts or Loxins any higher than 6 courses from the top. I cannot speak from my own experience of splitting the joint as I have not done so, but have seen a split created only 4 courses down.

My next door neighbour had a group of "handymen" (or at least that is what they thought of themselves) around to install a clothes line with Loxins 4 courses down - a couple of hours later and CRACK! and the clothes line fell to the ground. This was close to the corner of the wall and did support the hip end of the roof, but it still split the mortar joint.

Exador
23rd May 2007, 06:05 AM
Another side note to the bricks/mortar thing. In a properly laid wall, the mortar is NOT as strong as the bricks because the mortar should give way first in the event of movement of the wall. that way, any cracks follow the mortar line rather than simply going straight down or at an angle across the wall. The only exception is when the wall is in an exposed situation, such as close to the ocean, in which case the mortar needs a bit more cement, as the salt will reduce its final strength in time.

Having put more holes in brick walls to hang things on than I'd like to remember, I can not recommend inserting rawl plugs in the mortar: they WILL come loose.