matt finish pros and cons

[andrew29]

Hi everyone,

Ok so I have a bed made out of tas oak.

I wanted a deep chocolate colour on it and have achieved this by applying Feast Watson walnut prooftint followed by Black Japan, followed by a coat of french polish to 'isolate' the black japan so it doesn't leech into the clear top coats.

The final finish I want is a matt (or close to matt) finish. Am I better off applying a matt finish such as feast watson flatproof or another brand (maybe u-beaut) OR is it better to apply a more durable gloss finish and rub it back with steel wool to achieve a matt finish?

In the past I finished a table with a wattyl matt finish and it hasn't turned out as durable as I'd have liked.

Thanks heaps for any thoughts/suggestions.

[Gumby]

You could try Minwax wipe-on poly, which is available in satin or gloss.

Get it at Bunnings.

http://www.minwax.com/products/protective/wipe-on.cfm

its good for those big jobs but when it comes to small boxes and fine work, then I stick to Ubeaut hard shellac.

[Lignum]

Matt Finish... Classic album... Short Note... Brilliant:wink:

[munruben]

Hi Gumby, have been trying to find some Minwax wipe on poli but my local Bunnings at Browns Plains,Qld hasnt got any.Got any idea where I can get some from.

[andrew29]

thanks guys,

I got some feast watson satinproof today (mostly cause thats what was easiest) I'll give it a whirl and see how it goes...

thanks again

[ubeaut]

My preference is to go for a brilliant gloss then cut it back using Tripoli Powder and various grades of pumice if needed rather than steel wool. Along the way you can stop at semi gloss, satin, eggshell, semi mat and flat or many stages in between. It is always hard to get a good mat finish that is a real looker and lets face it weather you want a dead flat or a full gloss the more important thing is that it is a really good looker when you have finished.

If it looks great and feels brilliant, with no lines, marks or roughness it will be a winner every time, no matter what the gloss level.

Cheers - Neil :)

[Timstools]

then cut it back using Tripoli Powder and various grades of pumice if needed rather than steel wool

Hi i am new to the forum, I have a red gum top for a coffee table and cocobola legs for it. I have some Cabots Gloss with the CFP hardener but i dont want a gloss finish. What technique do i use to do this with Pumice and Tripoli powder (as above). Where would I buy it?

[ss_11000]

. What technique do i use to do this with Pumice and Tripoli powder (as above). Where would I buy it?
you can buy it direct from neil ( ubeaut - the manufacturers ) or from carbatec, carolls woodcrafts and many other places.

also handy to get from neil is the polishers handbook which describes the processes:2tsup:http://www.ubeaut.com.au/ubhome.htm

[Timstools]

Thanks for that. I think Ill do about 5 coats of Cabots "Gloss" with each coat having the hardener in it. Would the Tripoli powder still be abrasive enough to dull the surface? Id imagine the Cabots with hardener would be a little like two pack?
I want it to have a silky touch and semi gloss but definitely not high gloss.

[ss_11000]

Thanks for that. I think Ill do about 5 coats of Cabots "Gloss" with each coat having the hardener in it. Would the Tripoli powder still be abrasive enough to dull the surface? Id imagine the Cabots with hardener would be a little like two pack?
I want it to have a silky touch and semi gloss but definitely not high gloss.
not sure mate, never used the stuff in its 'natural' form. some one else will answer that one for ya:2tsup: