Removing putty off steel windows

[Tiger]

Had the unpleasant task of removing putty from steel windows. The best way was using my good Titan 1 inch chisel and hacking away. That putty was like concrete and I found myself sharpening the chisel every few minutes as the edge just curled over:doh: . Is there a better way of removing this "concrete" from the window?

[silentC]

Someone on here had some luck using paint stripper. You could give that a go. It's supposed to soften it up. Never tried it myself.

[rat52]

For some reason the putty in steel windows is like rock. I used an angle grinder and finished in the corners with the dremel. Use all PPE gear.

[Tools]

if the glass is out or coming out, use a heat gun to soften it.

Tools

[Tiger]

if the glass is out or coming out, use a heat gun to soften it.

Tools

We had hoped to keep the glass as we're talking about a number of windows that have to be done. Did try a heat gun but then cracks started appearing in the glass. The putty has rusted and has cracks so I thought I'd reputty the windows, so far 2 panes have broken and I'm not game to touch the others unless I can find a way of removing the putty without destroying the glass.

[silentC]

Well did you give the paint stripper a try?

[Tiger]

Haven't tried the paint stripper yet, when I pluck up the courage to try the other windows, I'll start with that.

[journeyman Mick]

Normal glazier's putty is a mixture of whiting (calcium carbonate?) and linseed oil. I don't think this mix would stick to steel but I've heard of cement powder being mixed in for other applications (caulking seams on boats). A whiting/cement/linseed oil putty would stick really well to steel so it wouldn't suprise me if that was what was used. This would explain why it's rock hard and so difficult to remove. Doesn't really help you though. The paint stripper would tend to affect the linseed oil though, so it's definitely worth a try.

Mick

[totoblue]

Had the unpleasant task of removing putty from steel windows. The best way was using my good Titan 1 inch chisel and hacking away. That putty was like concrete and I found myself sharpening the chisel every few minutes as the edge just curled over:doh: . Is there a better way of removing this "concrete" from the window?

I've done a number of steel windows so far and I've only cracked one pane. Anything that involves using a hammer is a no-no (unless the glass is already broken, but be careful of the other panes).

I believe the key is that you don't need to remove all the putty, just enough to allow a new coat of a different putty to smooth out the daggy bits and seal against the glass.

I use a sharp putty knife (old putty knives seem to wear to a sharper edge than new ones) and a Stanley knife to cut out the raised, cracked or daggy bits. The edge between the putty and the glass is commonly daggy and needs to be cut away with a Stanley knife. It's tough on the fingers. That still leaves most of the putty there as you are only trying to get rid of the faulty bits that prevent the next stage from working well.

Then I putty over the top with Nordsjo Super Filler which is a grey slightly-flexible premixed universal filler that can be tooled to a smooth surface with a dampened putty knife and sanded when dry. Generally I do this in two coats like when plastering - this putty shrinks a bit on deep holes.

Rusty bits get oil-based anti-rust primer either before or after puttying. Then put on a coat of acrylic undercoat (I just use exterior undercoat - not anything specifically for metal). Leave it for a few months to allow rust marks to come through and then recoat with oil-based anti-rust primer. If you don't wait, the rust will come through your final coat and you'll have to do this anyway.

This has stood the test of time (a few years) but my windows are not heavily rusted.

I've tried using wire brushes, chisels, hammers, angle grinders with wire brushes, paint stripping discs in drills. I've gone back to simple hand tools.

Don't try and do all the windows in your house at once. It is not a nice job and you need to intersperse it with something else or you will bugger your hands.

[Tiger]

<TABLE id=HB_Mail_Container height="100%" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="100%" border=0 UNSELECTABLE="on"><TBODY><TR height="100%" width="100%" UNSELECTABLE="on"><TD id=HB_Focus_Element vAlign=top width="100%" background="" height=250 UNSELECTABLE="off">Thanks, Toto, I've only just come back to this as I've been sidetracked with other things. I'll give you system a try.
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