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View Full Version : Anchoring the timber posts of a balustrade















Art Martin
13th March 2007, 03:43 PM
Hi,

I am considering replacing a small area of balustrade and was wondering if anyone could provide some advice. It is an internal balustrade.

I want to use wooden posts rather than stainless steel, but I need advice as to the best way to anchor them to the floorboards without having to bolt onto to the outside edge of the post. I was thinking of something similar to an anchor bolt, fastened inside the post, but am really unsure. Obviously, I don't want any external fastening, as it would look unsightly.



Any advice would be really appreciated.

K_S
13th March 2007, 04:10 PM
AM

Maybe a photo of the job area might help:2tsup:

KS

Gra
13th March 2007, 04:23 PM
Weld a nut into the bottom of the post, bolt through the floor... Simplest solution I can think of, may have to look into the size of the post compared to the weight it would have on it. as the bolt through the floor may not be strong enough, and rip out, or the post may bend. I will have to leave that to those that know what they are talking about, cause I dont know s@#t...

Art Martin
13th March 2007, 04:25 PM
Hi,

I tried to attach a quick sketch, but the file size was too large..ahhh

I'll try and explain here.

External Anchoring to floor
!!!|====| ffff
!!!|====|
!!!|====|
!!!|====| <--- Single vertical post
!!!|====|
_||====||_ <-External Anchoring to floor(|_)
------------------------------ <--Timber Floor line

Now, I'm looking at any options that would allow the post to be fastened without any external anchoring to the floor. Again, I'm not sure how it works, but have seen a few balustrades in the past where the posts were fastened to the floor without any obvious external fasteners.

Spelunx
13th March 2007, 06:44 PM
Perhaps your could dowel the balusters in place? It would be quite simple to set up a template to drill the holes, then put each baluster in place. Set up the rail and glue and screw.

I would use hardwood dowels for extra strength.

Hopefully someone with more experience will come along and give their opinion as well.

pharmaboy2
13th March 2007, 08:49 PM
I'd go with cutting a very accurate hole in the floor the same size as the post, and fix to subfloor (side/top of joist, or add trimmer between joists as necessary). If its a tight fit, then a little wood filler around the edge and bob's your uncle - no fixings.

you can also get post fixings for outside that have a single verticel steel post that goes inside the post and the post sits on top, hiding the fixing of the plate - even bunnies selle m.

Art Martin
14th March 2007, 11:43 AM
Thankyou all for your comments so far. Very much appreciated.

Pharmaboy, your paragraph about the post fixings with the verticle steel post was similar to what I wanted, but wasnt sure if they existed. I might head on down to bunnings and have a look at the options. Thanks!

joe greiner
14th March 2007, 09:33 PM
Whatever you use should be capable of resisting a lateral force applied at the top of the post, or more specifically at the railing supported by the post. Consult your building code for exact requirements.

Joe

UteMad
15th March 2007, 05:12 PM
CAn't cheat with handrails cause they'll come back and bight you later....
We would cut through the floor and fix to the side of the joist then put a trimmer around the base to conseal the cut... If your thinking of any bracket that screw to the floor then holds the post good lock!!!!
The post would only have a 10 cm base and pokes up 100cm min so the best you can hope for is a 10:1 holding power which you won't get......
Even a sh*tty old fence runs a 1:3 as in 600 in ground to 1800 out .....
I'd be looking at doing it the right way even if there are fixings you can always buy a plug cutter and put a pice of timber in to cover the fixing


my 2C its just that we see and have seen what happens with dodgy rails..

cheers ute mad