Dark Stain On Pale Timber

[DIY DAN]

Been asked to make a bookcase by a friend but he wants it cheap and in dark timber.
Cheapest wood is of course pine (even though I hate the stuff), but I have been experimenting with colour and I can't get it dark enough.
Is there any way to get a deep dark colour onto pine, ( or some other pale cheap wood)?

Alternatively, does anyone have any suggestions for another dark timber which is not too expensive.

Appreciate any help.

DIY DAN

[watson]

The forum owners book......and our beloved benefactor (suck suck suck)......has a book entitled the Polisher's Handbook.
Within the book are several dark stains for pine using "liquid Nightmare"/ferrous sulphate along with Tannic Acid. Tea and Coffe stains are also described.
It's really worth the dough...........and an excellent "in the shed" text.

Get yourself some rubber gloves and a copy of the Handbook.....otherwise your fingers will look like mine.

Regards,
Noel

[echnidna]

Thin some bitumenous body deadener down with turps and use it as a stain.
Next day seal it with orange shellac and you'll end up with a nice walnut type stain.

[Harry72]

Im assuming your going to be coating in poly? If so
Use a oil based stain as they contain(the darker ones)solids and dont finish sand it fine, go no more than 180~220g.
This will allow the solids to catch in the sanding marks... so dont sand across the grain!
Brush the stain(stirring it constantly) on giving the surface a good drenching and then before it starts to dry using a rag rub it in using a circular motion, then with a clean rag wipe off the excess... in the direction of the grain.
Let it dry completely(24hrs min)then thin out some poly 50/50 preferably spray it on, a brush will do the job but take it lightly as you may drag the stain around!
Let this dry DO NOT SAND apply a full thickness coat 1st then denib with 320g then apply your finish coat.

Hint, You can keep using the 1st rag for the whole project but the second rag must be replaced often.

Is this dark enough (http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=33036)

or this for deep colour? (http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=27757)

[DIY DAN]

Thanks for the help guys. Tomorrow looks like "trial and error" day.

By the way Echnidna, what the #!@*^+ hell is " bitumous body deadener".

DIY DAN

[la Huerta]

i use black japan (bitumous body deadener with hardener) don't make your own (been there done that), it just takes too long to dry, get the feast watson stuff, thin it down a little with gum turps (not mineral turps), put some on the wood, and wipe it off again, this will tone the wood, then a wipe coat of thin shelac, then next day use a nice brush and apply the black japan just like you would apply tinted varnish , very carefully, spread it over the whole section your starting on and tip it out with the brush so it's really even, with practice it will look almost sprayed on, and watch for drips as it's thin, and stop with the brush as soon as the eveness stays, or you will just start to smudge it if it starts to go off, just like varnish, you can't go over it to much so you got to work quick., next day seal with a good brush coat of shelac, leave for a couple of days then finish with feast watson floorseal...don't use any other finish as some eat into the japan, even when sealed...

the result will be the most beautiful deep rich finish you'v ever seen...

i use it on old oregon, about the same grain as to pine, and it is the only way i can get pro results...

i'v also got a really nice dark stain with walnut crystals...i'll go into that too if you want...







...oops , i just realised i'm replying to an old post, well hope somebody find my info helpfull...