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masoth
2nd February 2007, 11:05 PM
Wow!!!
I spent part of today comparing prices of a new vehicle (identical specifications) I am considering:

List Price:
On-line $38790;
Vendor 1 $35263; and
Vendor 2 $35235.

Discount:
Vendor 1 $3500; and
Vendor 2 $4977.

Final total:
Vendor 1 $41968; and
Vendor 2 $39427.

I guess I might go for the $2541 saving eh?

soth

Gumby
2nd February 2007, 11:11 PM
what type of car ?
I can get some details on Fords bottom prices if that's what you are looking at.

masoth
2nd February 2007, 11:17 PM
what type of car ?
I can get some details on Fords bottom prices if that's what you are looking at.

Thanks VERY MUCH Gumby:2tsup: - I'm sticking with Toyota. Have had absolutely no trouble with two vehicles:
One (Highace) I travelled almost 60000 in one year, and traded that to a dual cab Hilux which I've kept siince Feb 1985, and now just turned over 118000Km.

Gumby
2nd February 2007, 11:20 PM
Thanks VERY MUCH Gumby:2tsup: - I'm sticking with Toyota. Have had absolutely no trouble with two vehicles:
One (Highace) I travelled almost 60000 in one year, and traded that to a dual cab Hilux which I've kept siince Feb 1985, and now just turned over 118000Km.

No probs. My son is in new cars with a big Ford dealer. It seems to me that about 4-5 grand off list is about the bottom price. Shouldn't be much different with Toyota I would think.

abitfishy
2nd February 2007, 11:33 PM
Wow!!!
I spent part of today comparing prices of a new vehicle (identical specifications) I am considering:

List Price:
On-line $38790;
Vendor 1 $35263; and
Vendor 2 $35235.

Discount:
Vendor 1 $3500; and
Vendor 2 $4977.

Final total:
Vendor 1 $41968; and
Vendor 2 $39427.

I guess I might go for the $2541 saving eh?

soth

Sorry, I must be missing something (its late on Friday night afterall!!) but why is the final total for the vendors 1 & 2 HIGHER than the list price minus the discount....

bitingmidge
2nd February 2007, 11:45 PM
I've just done a deal on a car (almost) list price; $32,990 plus dealer costs, rego and insurance.

Dealer one- $32,995 on the road (and I'm making $60 on the deal he says) I sob in his beer, but thank him anyway.

Dealer two- $32,044 and a DVD player thrown in (if I sign today).

Dealer one - ok I'll match that!

Tomorrow is another day. Dealer one has been very helpful and I don't care about screwing the last few dollars out of the deal, but I don't get it either.

Cheers,

P

masoth
3rd February 2007, 09:38 AM
Sorry, I must be missing something (its late on Friday night afterall!!) but why is the final total for the vendors 1 & 2 HIGHER than the list price minus the discount....

I should have explained - I did not include the options, delivery charge, GST, etc. Sorry fishy.

The difference in delivery cost is surprising: Vendor 1 $995 and Vendor 2 is $525.
The point I'm trying to make is how important 'shopping around' can be. I'm going back to Vendor 1 on Monday armed with the quote from Vendor 2.:U

soth

abitfishy
3rd February 2007, 11:33 AM
Ah, thats alright, I thought there must of been something I missed. I hadn't even had a drink.

Good luck with the Toyota, but it will take a lot to change me from Ford. :)

rrich
3rd February 2007, 05:24 PM
If you work for a large corporation there may be an easier way with a better price.

Many corporations and governments have negotiated special pricing for their employees. You should ask at your HR department.

When I bought my truck, the price was about $300 less than dealer invoice. All I had to do was give the dealer my PIN and the price was calculated right there. And yes, here the dealer invoice can be verified from several sources like Kelly Blue Book and Edmunds.

BTW - Here in the US, there is a system called "Hold Backs". This is a number, usually 3% of the dealer invoice, that is held back by the manufacturer. This hold back is used towards the next vehicle. For example, the list or sticker price is $30,000 with a dealer invoice of $25,000. The dealer sells that vehicle and orders a replacement as inventory for sale. Assuming the same numbers, the actual cost to the dealer is $24,250 ($25,000 invoice less previous hold back $750) for the replacement vehicle. So, here, when a dealer says that they're "Only making $50" it is true based on the invoice number but the hold back is adding about 3% in profit. Dealers, like consumers, never buy at the published price.

dazzler
3rd February 2007, 05:59 PM
Hi

Try discountnewcars.com.au. Major dealerships have a deal with them where there is a pre arranged discount. This has saved me thousands on my last purchase.

My uncle has recently retired from the sales game and he always told me the best thing to do is as follows;

Do up a letter identifying the exact make and model of car that you wish to buy, all accessories colour etc.

Phone up each of the dealers asking to speak with the sales manager. Get his name and fax number and tell him to expect a fax.

Make a list and fax off the request to each of them. In the letter state that you will simply be taking the lowest offer from a number of dealers that you are faxing the letter to and that you will not be entering into any debate over the price and that they only get one chance at it.

The other is never trade. A trade just gets in the way of the cheapest price and goes against you.

If you have a vehicle try selling it first at a reasonable price and if you get no takers then get the price for a trade in from redbook.com.au for your vehicle and advertise it at that price which is in effect wholesaling it. Most private sellers overprice thier cars.

We did the fax thing with my fathers Ford Fairmont a few years ago and he got a really good deal.

good luck

dazzler

Farm boy
4th February 2007, 02:13 AM
i hate car salesman there a pack of arseholes and i dont recomend cardiff toyota to get a car from:ranting2:

we paid $23,000 for a new corrolla conquest with promise of a 6 year warranty we only ended up with a 3 year warranty due to a missunderstanding and you can never get a straight answer from them

i will stick to buying second hand cars privately next time its less hassle dealing with fellow human beings

masoth
4th February 2007, 07:13 AM
Dazzler said, and I thank you: "Try discountnewcars.com.au. Major dealerships have a deal with them where there is a pre arranged discount. This has saved me thousands on my last purchase.", so I had a look.
Certainly an interesting set-up - the list price was about $5000 less than the other dealers BUT everything else was greater. A couple, to indicate:

* Aircon $1930 against 1695 and 1625;
* Delivery $1295 against 995 and 525; and
* Stamp duty $1264 against $1134 and $1040.

That alone is $1289 more than the cheapest, and I did not price the options I want because they weren't readily available.

soth

graemet
4th February 2007, 09:43 PM
Best deal I've had on a new car was to buy it from a dealer in the bush. Not only was the bottom line about $2k less than the city dealers, it was all done on a handshake, no bank cheque, "your personal cheque will be OK"
Cheers
Graeme

dazzler
5th February 2007, 11:17 AM
Dazzler said, and I thank you: "Try discountnewcars.com.au. Major dealerships have a deal with them where there is a pre arranged discount. This has saved me thousands on my last purchase.", so I had a look.
Certainly an interesting set-up - the list price was about $5000 less than the other dealers BUT everything else was greater. A couple, to indicate:

* Aircon $1930 against 1695 and 1625;
* Delivery $1295 against 995 and 525; and
* Stamp duty $1264 against $1134 and $1040.

That alone is $1289 more than the cheapest, and I did not price the options I want because they weren't readily available.

soth

Doh!

And I thought I was clever! :C

masoth
21st March 2007, 04:03 PM
At last I'm ready to buy my new Toyota Hilux and to sell my old Toyota Hilux. Trade-in would get me $1500, and the private sale is getting me $4000.

QUESTIONS: In Victoria is a Road Worthy Certificate (RWC) required:
1. to be supplied by the vendor; (if not)
2. obtained by the purchaser; and
3. what is the cost?

I'm offering a full mechanical service and detailing BEFORE handover, so I'm not inclined to provide a RWC too.

Thoughts please.

soth

DJ’s Timber
21st March 2007, 05:06 PM
If it's a private sale you're not required to have a RWC, but you have to hand in the plates to Vicroads and the purchaser gets the plates back when they get a RWC.

Been a while since I have had to get a RWC but i would think it would be around the $100 mark plus any repairs required to pass

Studley 2436
21st March 2007, 05:14 PM
just as a rule of thumb fleet price for a Falcodore is 2/3 retail. There is margin there that the big boys are able to get. So have a go at the stuff ideas so on that people put forward to see if you can get in on that.

Bit of the wrong time to say mabye but there are discounts going midyear. They allways do a midyear sale usually June from memory

Studley

Gumby
21st March 2007, 07:16 PM
If it's a private sale you're not required to have a RWC, but you have to hand in the plates to Vicroads and the purchaser gets the plates back when they get a RWC.

No, that's not as i understand it. You have 30 days to get it roadworthy if it's sold without one. That's what happened when i bought a car for my son 3 years ago. i don't think it's changed since.

DJ’s Timber
21st March 2007, 07:24 PM
No, that's not as i understand it. You have 30 days to get it roadworthy if it's sold without one. That's what happened when i bought a car for my son 3 years ago. i don't think it's changed since.

No worries, as I said it's been a while since I did and back in those days you had to hand the plates in

DJ’s Timber
21st March 2007, 07:32 PM
Just had a squizz on the Vic Roads site here (http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/Home/Registration/BuyingSelling/) and you must either supply with a RWC or cancel the rego.

Certainly has changed since I last did it.

Gumby
21st March 2007, 07:43 PM
Just had a squizz on the Vic Roads site here (http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/Home/Registration/BuyingSelling/) and you must either supply with a RWC or cancel the rego.

Certainly has changed since I last did it.

Reading that I'd say it's OK to sell without a roadworthy as long as the buyer gets one in 14 days.

echnidna
21st March 2007, 07:57 PM
If you can trust the buyer

dazzler
21st March 2007, 09:09 PM
I think car salesman get a bad rap generally thats prob not deserved. Yes there are exceptions however these are very much in the minority.

I think of it this way. If I was running a business I would want to make as much money as I can to keep it running.

If a customer has not done his homework and is prepared to pay more for the product then I see no issue with that at all.

Most people pay too much cause there lazy....

cheers

dazzler

and yes I see the irony in my final statement :rolleyes:

masoth
21st March 2007, 10:05 PM
If you can trust the buyer

Too true. Failing to change the ownership (by the purchaser) was one wonderful way of not paying recieved parking tickets, speeding fines, etc., and causing headaches for the 'seller'. This will not occur when I sell.

soth

Shannon
22nd March 2007, 01:32 PM
Hi Soth,

Just a thought on the RWC - as a buyer, I would be less inclined to buy without one as you are buying what you think is a good vehicle, only to find you need $$$ spent before they give you it. I would still look at it, but maybe more picky with the price just in case I get caught with a lemon.
As a seller, I would probably be more inclined to grab it also (well at least when we're talking $4000, if it was $1000 maybe not), not so much to increase my sale value, but because it may sell the car quicker and less painfully.
I am not a great negotiater, so a quicker and easier sale, either as seller or buyer is in my best interests. You may be a great salesman and not in a rush to get rid of the old hilux so may not matter, just another opinion for you.