Chopping boards

[macka75]

Hi there,
I'm making a couple of chopping boards from jarrah and would like to know what sort of oil to use on them? or is there something else I can use? Also what sort of glue is recommened? I have titedond III which says its waterproof.. is that okay?

THanks for any feedback.

[Wongo]

I always use 1 coat of Organoil hard burnishing oil but some forum members would prefer veg oil or no oil at all. I don’t think it makes much difference though.

Titebond II and III are both OK. I use Titebond II all the time.

[DJ’s Timber]

Titebond III is fine and use Mineral or Parrafin oil to finish it, don't use any of the veg or olive oils as they eventually go rancid

[macka75]

thanks guys

[Bleedin Thumb]

Titebond III is fine and use Mineral or Parrafin oil to finish it, don't use any of the veg or olive oils as they eventually go rancid

DJ
I still recon that this is an old wives tale. What happens when you chop up that greasy chop or fatty leg of lamb?

The fat must get absorbed into the timber. Has anyone EVER had a chopping board go rancid?

I only ever give mine a rinse under the tap ( with a light rub) and then dry. Think of all the oils and fat your chopping board gets exposed too.

I never oil my boards, can't see the point.

As far as I'm know parrafin is a byproduct of the petroleum industry. Do you really want that on your board?

[DJ’s Timber]

Yeah it could be an old wives tale, but better to be safe than sorry.

I have actually smelt an old board that hadn't been used for along time and it was a bit on the nose but that could have been any number of things

[Tex B]

macka,

these (http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=31453) are jarrah finished with paraffin oil. Still looking good after 6 months, but hasn't seen much chopping

Tex

[macka75]

Can any one tell me where I can purchase paraffin oil from? Is there a website? I will be at carbatec on the weekend does anyone know if they have it? thanks

[DJ’s Timber]

I have seen it on the shelves at Bunnings where the turps, kero and thinners is kept

[Tex B]

Got mine at Woolworths or Coles or Franklins (can't remember). On the aisle with the condoms and massage oil, next to the tea tree oil and lavender oil. Cost about $2 for about 100ml.

It was kind of embarrassing. I don't think they believed me when I said it was for finishing a cutting board.:o

Tex

[macka75]

cheers Tex

[Dr Jan Itor]

I refinish my everyday-use chopping board with vege oil every few months. No issues so far, although it doesn't help when SWMBO puts it in the dishwasher.

[bsrlee]

Use 'White Oil' or 'Mineral Oil' - You should be able to get bottles of 'White Oil' from the chemist/pharmacist as it is used in lotions & potions. People don't swell up and die when they get some trace of it in their food.

Avoid all nut & seed oils, like peanut, canola, olive etc as some people can have an allergic reaction to even the tiniest trace - Peanut oil is most likely to cause problems, followed by walnut oil (which is sometimes recommended as a finish oil for wood thats being used for food) and then other natural oils. The reaction can vary from 'swell up and die' thru' various stomach upsets, headaches, blisters & pins-and-needles sensations.

I've never had woodware that I've oiled go rancid or otherwise 'off', but I've seen some disasters in charity Op shops - I have no idea what they used, but there is a vile gooey mess on the timber, which is often soft or disintergrating. Sometimes it smells a bit like linseed oil, but I've just avoided the goods altogether.

[Ashore]

I agree with wongo , always use Organoil hard burnishing oil, pour some on the board & with a cloth over the bottom of your sander polish the whole surface , the heat from friction helps the oil into the timber, the other good thing is that you get a great aroma from the board, doesn't last too long but is a great selling point when their new,:rolleyes:

[Lignum]

30% west system epoxy 70% thinners - perfect.

[Paul NQ]

I know that some timbers can be more of an irritant than others, when working with them. Are there any that should not be used for food preparation?

[Bleedin Thumb]

Well I wouldn't be making a wooden spoon out of Oleander.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Well I wouldn't be making a wooden spoon out of Oleander.

Why not? Perfect chrissy prez for MIL. An Oleander salad serving set, spalted timber salad bowls and a Cocobolo & Treated Pine chopping board.

Hint: if the wake's not catered, plead unavoidable responsibilities. ;)

[ubeaut]

'White Oil' or 'Mineral Oil' = Parafin Oil. Buy it at the chemist or Supermarket.

[A-Marks]

No Serously
when Butchers used endgrain Blocks to chop all they ever used was mutton fat and you'de think that would go rancid but No!

petroleum based products should be a NoNo where contact with food is expected.

I have used all kinds of "safe" finishes and in the end they all cop a hiding and end up looking the same (USED)
for mine - I sell them with no finish and give with each a small canister of ecowood oil finish which makes the board somewhat waterproof. But can scuff when being put in and out of the car going to markets to sell.

Glues:- Now that there is Polyurethane (core that's a mouthful) Glue I always use them with either a beed or several biscuits as joint strengthers. I have had probs with folks returning boards that were glued with various white and yellow glues albeit my thoughts is that the glues were too old when I used them and or the people used the dishwasher to clean the boards
I dont know of any glue that will hang together under those circumstances except epoxy and who wants to use that.

OK
so there you have it
My way of finishing boards

[Shedgirl]

I've used olive oil on my favourite jarrah board for the last 20 years (until I left it in the oven by accident and now it's black instead of red). I was told to use olive specifically because it doesn't go rancid, unlike some other veg oils, and I've had no problem at all. I have a good nose (handy when you live around here!), and I notice 'rancid' before most people would. Walnut oil does harden off to a beautiful, very durable finish, and once it has cured it seems to be pretty stable. I hadn't considered the allergy angle, though.