View Full Version : Peeling Paint - Aquanamel - Acrylic Gloss
powerbuff
24th September 2006, 10:19 PM
Hi there,
I'm painting over the doors in an old 60s style house. Looks like they haven't been painted for over 10 years..
I'm having trouble with the paint I am applying is peeling. You can give a very light scratch and it will peel off. Even after a few days etc.
I am using an acrylic gloss. It seems to stick ok to the architraves which were originally painted with a different colour to the doors.
I'd like to know whether it is the material or current coat on the doors causing the problem or what. Is the new paint chemically incompatible?
I have not been using an undercoat but recently bought some 3 in 1 stuff (a good one ($25 a 1L)). This appears to work a bit better but still not sure if it is perfect.
Has this happened before? I thought you could just put the aquanamel on top of an already painted surface if you sugar soap etc.
Thanks,
Gazza
chrise
25th September 2006, 09:30 AM
am not sure why your paint is peeling but a suggestion is to use a product called "ESP" first of all before painting. Its available at most hardware stores. My guess is that the old coat on the doors is Enamel and your new paint isn't sticking at all to it
http://www.floodaustralia.net/products/esp.htm (http://www.floodaustralia.net/products/esp.htm)
I used it a few months back on doors originally painted in enamel and painted over with a high gloss acrylic and not a problem in the world
Oh and remember acrylic takes a lot longer to fully harden compared to enamel
mic-d
25th September 2006, 09:36 AM
I had this exact problem last year and finally worked out a failsafe method. I posted it here:
http://woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=35525
I guarantee it to never fail if you clean the door properly first. I also used a standard 3 in 1 primer and it also failed.
Goodluck.
Cheers
Michael
bpj1968
25th September 2006, 10:17 AM
You can also use something called "Degloss" I think it is made by selleys, in a yellow bottle. It's a wipe on wipe off type of product that removes the gloss
Jacksin
25th September 2006, 11:38 AM
The way it was explained to me at a paint trade centre was the oil-based enamel will cover acrylic but acrylic enamel wont cover oil based enamels unless you prep coat.
An easy check (so I am told) to see what paint is on your woodwork is to spot-damp a rag with metho and rub in an inconspicuous place. If its acrylic a little colour will come off, if its oil based enamel it wont.
bresmith
25th September 2006, 11:45 AM
I also had the same problem with my doors, architraves etc. I sanded them back (they were varnished), applied ESP, applied 3 in 1 and then painted in a water based gloss. After a couple of days the paint would peel off if you scratched it with a fingernail. However, after leaving it to dry (set) for about a month the paint went hard and l had no problems at all. I'd try letting it set for a couple of weeks and see how you go.
sea dragon
25th September 2006, 03:20 PM
For what it is worth, I sanded back stained doors, then used a 3 in 1 and acrylic. Was not happy with how easily it chipped or could be scratched, even allowing all the long time acrylic apparently needs to harden.
Had to re-sand and then chose to go down the Zinsser path. It was the only path that tradesmen were willing to recommend, and they were aware that the last thing I wanted to do was startafresh.
The Zinsser works.
I have used it in the past successfuly; only wish I had used it from the start. It is about $66 for 4 litres. It has a water-soluble and a turps soluble. I do not think they refer to enamels or acrylic. The better/more reliable finish is with the turps soluble.
mic-d
25th September 2006, 06:32 PM
It has a water-soluble and a turps soluble. I do not think they refer to enamels or acrylic. The better/more reliable finish is with the turps soluble.
No not turps soluble, it is an alcohol-based shellac product. Cleanup with metho. But it is a fantadstic product.
The very next day it will be scratch resistant.
Cheers
Michael
powerbuff
3rd October 2006, 12:36 AM
Thanks for the tips. The zinser undercoat worked well.
Acrylic gloss or atleast the Dulux aquanamel is total crap!!!
Bought a $40 tin of 4L British Paints Trade enamel gloss because I ran out of aquanamel.. I'm so glad I decided to switch. I have now been over almost everything with the proper enamel. Looks so good. The finish is approaching glass.
I bought a 230mm roller for gloss (short nap). This worked ok but the $4-$5 bunnings roller cover is putting small 5mm long fur in the paint finish. Do the more expensive ones stop this?
The aquanamel cost me days..painting, then sanding off due to it not sticking properly then re coating!!
P.S I added penetrol to the enamel which was good. Might have darkened the white ever so slightly though
I tried everything with the aquanml (floetrol, good brushes etc) couldnt get a good finish at all. Last time I try that! I cant believe they sell a lot of that paint. Total waste..at about $70 a can..
mic-d
3rd October 2006, 07:02 AM
FWIW, it's not he aquanamel's fault it didn't stick!
You will never get the same level as finish with acrylic, but it has advantages in other areas (cleanup and non yellowing).
Anyway glad you sorted it out!
Cheers
Michael
powerbuff
3rd October 2006, 10:51 AM
Yeah I know its not its fault.
But the finish with it - even on properly prepared areas was awful. Bugger all gloss and stroke marks.
Enamel all the way!!
Clean up was almost as easy.
bresmith
4th October 2006, 11:54 AM
I bought a 230mm roller for gloss (short nap). This worked ok but the $4-$5 bunnings roller cover is putting small 5mm long fur in the paint finish. Do the more expensive ones stop this?
I was told at my local paint shop that the cheapish rollers are fine as long as you prepare them properly. Wash them in warm soapy water and give them a good rub to remove any loose fibres before rinsing. I've been using the 12 pack for $10 from bunnings and they have been fine using this method.
Also a good tip is to wrap them tightly in glad wrap or a plastic bag and keep them in the fridge after use. I haven't washed a roller out for years using this method and they have been reused sometimes 5 months later.
Brent:)
powerbuff
4th October 2006, 02:34 PM
bresmith. So if you are using enamel you don't even try to clean the roller, you just coat it in glad wrap and put it in the fridge?
Sounds good.
Thanks for the tips. Good news about the rollers too. I;ll give them a good wash and rub down ;)
Metal Head
5th October 2006, 12:00 AM
I was told at my local paint shop that the cheapish rollers are fine as long as you prepare them properly. Wash them in warm soapy water and give them a good rub to remove any loose fibres before rinsing. I've been using the 12 pack for $10 from bunnings and they have been fine using this method.
Also a good tip is to wrap them tightly in glad wrap or a plastic bag and keep them in the fridge after use. I haven't washed a roller out for years using this method and they have been reused sometimes 5 months later.
Brent:)
Bugger - I wish you had posted that tip Brent last week prior to me throwing my elcheapo bunnings rollers as a result of the fluff getting into paint I was putting on the walls:mad:. Oh well at least I know what to do next time;).
Cheers
David
bresmith
5th October 2006, 11:39 AM
bresmith. So if you are using enamel you don't even try to clean the roller, you just coat it in glad wrap and put it in the fridge?
Sounds good.
I haven't used this method for enamel, only acrylic but l wouldn't imagine there should be any difference. Since enamel takes longer the dry i'd expect that it would last even longer in the fridge.