Glue question

[ptrott]

I am about to fit pine lining boards to a room (horizontally) and intend to glue the boards to every wooden stud as well as secret nailing to try to minimize the chance of cupping.
I was going to buy a carton of Zero Nails, but I already have a 5.5Kg tub of Stud Adhesive for fixing the new cornices to the top pine lining board, and I'm sure that I won't use that much.
Any reason why I shouldn't use it to glue the lining boards to the studs?

Thanks,
Phill.

(Yes Maglite, I got new cornices, nice bold Grecian ones:))

[rod@plasterbrok]

Well I dont know if stud adhesive is the right thing to use for the cornice.

The difficulty you will have is cleaning off any excess that will squeeze out on to your lining boards.

I would use cornice adhesive along the ceiling member and no adhesive at all on the pine boards. Get a suitable length screw and screw the bottom member of the cornice to the pine board. You will have a clean finish with no muck on the boards. If you wanted to you could mask the board after and fill the bottom cornice member with a good quality silicone. Then use a sharp knife blade cut along the edge and remove the tape.

This will give you a great finish along the bottom edge.

But it will stick the pine boards ok It is really strong glue. But it takes 24 hrs depending on weather to set.

Cheers Rod Dyson

[ptrott]

Rod, the stud adhesive was recommended by a tech person at Bradys Plaster, who supplied the cornice. I was going to mask the board from the cornice line down, to try to save the mess. I was also going to try to keep the glue up a bit from the bottom, BUT, the cornice curves away from the wall about 25mm
from the edge so that is difficult. I like your idea. Should I drill a clearance hole in the cornice? (Plaster-glass cornice)
Should I use galv. screws so no future rust stains? What head should the screws have? Would no-more-gaps be a better option than silicon because silicon is not paintable and I have a personal hate of the stuff?
The other thing I was considering was to put a strip of lining board at the top of each wall with the tongue or grove facing down but say 5 or 10mm short of the bottom of where the cornice will finnish, then put up all the cornice, then fit the remainder of the wall lining. It means working down from the top, but there will be no problems with the glue being visible.
That web site of yours is trully great. I have printed a load of stuff for measuring and cutting dec. cornice off it. Thanks for that :-)

[rod@plasterbrok]

Hi Phill,

Thanks for your comments on our web site I don't think I will ever finish it because with the questions raised here, it just keeps fueling ideas for further tips. We really wan't to create a "how to do it", site rather than a "what to do", site.

Yes no-more gaps is what I really meant to say. Use plasterboard screws they a zinc coated and won't rust. Pre-drilling and counter sinking is a great idea as it will prevent the cornice cracking as it sometimes does if you screw to close to the edge.

I really wonder sometimes about advice for the sales guys in plasterboard stores. I know because I have employed enough of them over the years. mostly they are not tradesmen. What he has suggested will work ok but it is open to disaster if you get that glue on the surface of the timber.

You would have to be so exact in the application so it did not ooze out.

I would get all your lining board on first, as any banging etc. may cause a hairline crack in the corners of the cornice.

Good luck with it.

Cheers

Rod

[ptrott]

Well, today is the day so I am taking your advice and going with the screwing.
Thanks Rod