Ben (TM)
17th August 2006, 12:40 PM
Greetings learned forum members.
Looking for some advice on how I should go about fitting a lock to a set of double entrance doors on "the project".
I have bought a Gainsborough trilock (http://www.gainsboroughhardware.com.au/index.asp?id=3_20_44_325) 3 in 1 lockset, deadbolt and passage set (see pic). This lock, like most, needs to be mounted on a flush door edge and jamb. Problem is with these old doors, at the point at where the doors come together is like a half lap joint (see doors diagram).
Originally, the door just had a lock cylinder with a back mounted latch, with the catch back mounted on the opposing door. I guess I could have replicated this with something like a Lockwood 001 Deadlatch (http://www.lockweb.com.au/products/product.asp?id=86&categoryID=235) but the problem with these is that they are either open (doors swinging around) or locked. I want the convenience of a knob/handle that allows the doors to be closed, but not necessarily locked, which is why i bought the Gainsborough.
I made a bit of a mess of the packaging when I opened the lockset, so not much chance of taking it back now, so I'd like to make it work if I can (it cost $140!).
So I have two ideas - and I'd like some opinions on which way you guys would go (or any other way that I haven't thought of).
Solution 1:
Completely remove the rebated edges on both doors. This will leave a gap of about 30mm in between the doors. To fix this, I would add a strip of hardwood to the edge of Door 1, then mount the lockset
Solution 2:
Build up the rebated section of door 1. Cut the mirrored leading edge out of door 2 allowing the strike plate to be mounted on a flat, solid section of door (I figure that this is the most likely point of failure in a forced entry situation).
See diagrams for details
The other option would be to revert to the Lockwood dead latch and waste the $140 (maybe try selling it on ebay or something I guess) and install a completely separate passage type set (although I am going to have the same problems with this as I doubt I will be able to find a passage set with a back mount)
Obviously, the more secure option (which ever that may be in people's minds ) is the most preferred!
BTW - doors are red pine, door 2 (strike plate door) will be secured top and bottom with Lockwood 680 patio bolts (http://www.lockweb.com.au/products/product.asp?id=141&categoryID=245).
Cheers
Ben
Looking for some advice on how I should go about fitting a lock to a set of double entrance doors on "the project".
I have bought a Gainsborough trilock (http://www.gainsboroughhardware.com.au/index.asp?id=3_20_44_325) 3 in 1 lockset, deadbolt and passage set (see pic). This lock, like most, needs to be mounted on a flush door edge and jamb. Problem is with these old doors, at the point at where the doors come together is like a half lap joint (see doors diagram).
Originally, the door just had a lock cylinder with a back mounted latch, with the catch back mounted on the opposing door. I guess I could have replicated this with something like a Lockwood 001 Deadlatch (http://www.lockweb.com.au/products/product.asp?id=86&categoryID=235) but the problem with these is that they are either open (doors swinging around) or locked. I want the convenience of a knob/handle that allows the doors to be closed, but not necessarily locked, which is why i bought the Gainsborough.
I made a bit of a mess of the packaging when I opened the lockset, so not much chance of taking it back now, so I'd like to make it work if I can (it cost $140!).
So I have two ideas - and I'd like some opinions on which way you guys would go (or any other way that I haven't thought of).
Solution 1:
Completely remove the rebated edges on both doors. This will leave a gap of about 30mm in between the doors. To fix this, I would add a strip of hardwood to the edge of Door 1, then mount the lockset
Solution 2:
Build up the rebated section of door 1. Cut the mirrored leading edge out of door 2 allowing the strike plate to be mounted on a flat, solid section of door (I figure that this is the most likely point of failure in a forced entry situation).
See diagrams for details
The other option would be to revert to the Lockwood dead latch and waste the $140 (maybe try selling it on ebay or something I guess) and install a completely separate passage type set (although I am going to have the same problems with this as I doubt I will be able to find a passage set with a back mount)
Obviously, the more secure option (which ever that may be in people's minds ) is the most preferred!
BTW - doors are red pine, door 2 (strike plate door) will be secured top and bottom with Lockwood 680 patio bolts (http://www.lockweb.com.au/products/product.asp?id=141&categoryID=245).
Cheers
Ben