View Full Version : one angry tiling mofo
drummelars
27th July 2006, 07:45 PM
well for the life of me i cant get a good cut with the diamond blade on the angle grinder and the electric tile cutter!!! and still no good!http://users.tpg.com.au/jselmes/tile/c.jpg
how the hell can i cut around this bloody drain ive blown about 15 tiles trying FFS.
cheers for any help
drummelars
27th July 2006, 07:46 PM
as you see also its a hard cut because the bootom the the hole closest to the tile is almst right on it and its going to be a hard cut to make
Wombat2
27th July 2006, 07:50 PM
Hire a wet tile cutter. they have a diamond spindle and jet of water to keep it all cool - like cutting though butter and well worth it for a perfect finish
drummelars
27th July 2006, 07:51 PM
i have one of them its like a table saw. ill get a picture
Wombat2
27th July 2006, 07:58 PM
Another method I have used is to score the surface on your markings with the diamond blade in the angle grinder then run perpendicular cuts into the score line about 1/2 to 1" apart then nip out the pieces with the pincers
drummelars
27th July 2006, 08:07 PM
Another method I have used is to score the surface on your markings with the diamond blade in the angle grinder then run perpendicular cuts into the score line about 1/2 to 1" apart then nip out the pieces with the pincers
i triec the biters but its was bloddy hard to keep a good edge
heres some pics
http://users.tpg.com.au/jselmes/tile/cutter.jpghttp://users.tpg.com.au/jselmes/tile/hole.jpg
echnidna
27th July 2006, 08:14 PM
drill a hole, thread a grit edge hacksaw blade through the hole and cut it out by hand.
elphingirl
27th July 2006, 08:16 PM
We used a tile snapper to cut the clean breaks in the tiles. It has a diamond blade that scores the top of the tile, and then a bar that applies pressure at exactly the right spot. You can hire them easily. For the picture above, that is always going to be a difficult cut. I would think about maybe phoning a tiler to see if they will cut it for you while they're out on site.
We also found drilling holes with a diamond bit in a circle to remove larger areas of tile, and then just neatening it up with a nibbler.
These were pocelain floor tiles too, so they were bloody hard to work with.
drummelars
27th July 2006, 08:17 PM
these cuts are and absolute bugger
drummelars
27th July 2006, 08:24 PM
We used a tile snapper to cut the clean breaks in the tiles. It has a diamond blade that scores the top of the tile, and then a bar that applies pressure at exactly the right spot. You can hire them easily. For the picture above, that is always going to be a difficult cut. I would think about maybe phoning a tiler to see if they will cut it for you while they're out on site.
We also found drilling holes with a diamond bit in a circle to remove larger areas of tile, and then just neatening it up with a nibbler.
These were pocelain floor tiles too, so they were bloody hard to work with.
yeaj i already had a slide board tile cutter aswell from DTA. Spent 200 bucks on 2 tile cutters and an angel grinder diamond blade and still cant bloody do it
Wood Butcher
27th July 2006, 08:42 PM
Drummelars,
What about marking the tiles that you need cut and taking them to a pro tiler. Try calling a few and maybe arrange to meet them on their work site. Give them a few bucks and see what happens.
rod@plasterbrok
27th July 2006, 11:24 PM
Good luck drum,
I can hear the frustration in your posts. I can't provide you with any helpfull info because I don't know. But maybe a bit of moral support.
Hang in there, some good advice above you will get it. First thing though, good strong coffe.
Cheers Rod
drummelars
28th July 2006, 12:23 AM
yeah thanks guys.
i also tried one of those drill bits with a spinner thmngy on it for cutting tiles and it was $40 bucks and was useless as tits on a bull, the drill aprt couldnt even break through the cermaic tile to get to the hole ctting part.
waste of money
drummelars
28th July 2006, 12:52 AM
For cutting holes in the centre of tiles all you need, A short piece of water pipe approx dia of the hole size75mm long.
Get/make a little pick hammer which looks like a small nail punch sharpened to point at one end... you can make one easy if not i have seen them at bunnings.
Mark where you want the hole, then go outside and sit down lol. place the pipe on the concrete and with the hammer start taking tiny tiny little taps in the centre... like real slowly until you make a little hole in the middle.
Caution: never let the tile move off the pipe while tapping, or the tile will break everytime.
As the hole gets bigger, you keep the edge of the hole close to the rim of the pipe but not on it.
Not! joking do all this at a snails pace, you will get the feel after practicing on a few scrap tiles.
ps if it was daytime i would take some pics, of the tools required...been years since i used them lol
HJ0 Cheers go for it cuz you will feel great after making that first hole... Goodluck:eek:
would be good to see some pics mate so i can get and idea of what you talking about.
cheers
Terry1
28th July 2006, 08:54 AM
You could be in a bit of trouble depending on how much you have left between the waste and the other tile.You could get them down to about ten mm or so(depending on tile)if you had to, but after that it would be pretty hard(appearance would not be great either)I'm a bricklayer by trade but have done(do)plenty of tiling and I would have changed the set out if the cut worked out like it has.The position of the waste (wastes)is probably the main consideration when setting out your floor.We also have a spare wastes and use them as templates to mark both sides of the tile and come in through the back with the anglegrinder (quite easy in most cases,depending on tiles)Same with any holes ,you can buy lots of holecutters but most blokes just come in from behind with the grinder after marking both sides(again this makes it a pretty easy thing to do)Probably a bit late now but maybe you can try these things next time
Regards Terry
HJ0
28th July 2006, 03:03 PM
Heres them tools.;)
27424
HJ0 Cheers
rod1949
28th July 2006, 03:34 PM
You can get carbourundum coated rods that fit into hacksaws which will do the trick. There are also carbourundum edged blades for jigsaws which are even better but in using the jigsaw the tile needs to be protected (masking tape) from being scratched.
Dan_574
28th July 2006, 04:45 PM
you could always pull the drain out and put in a square type there are a few on the market, heres one below, but it will probably be easy to keep going the way your going.
http://www.blucher.com.au/pbdd300.htm
drummelars
29th July 2006, 12:03 AM
ohhh yeah i want those square ones can you pick one up[ from bunnies???
HJ0
29th July 2006, 02:36 AM
drummelars: Any progress shots etc? someone might learn something from your tiling efforts.
HJ0 cheers
Dan_574
29th July 2006, 10:03 AM
dont know about bunnings but reece or one of your plumbing shops will have them. I also have seen ones that are recessed into the floor and you can put one of your tiles in the top. all you see is about a 5mm gap around the edges. looks very good.
drummelars
29th July 2006, 10:28 AM
will post so,me pics today
drummelars
29th July 2006, 03:54 PM
http://users.tpg.com.au/jselmes/tile/e.jpghttp://users.tpg.com.au/jselmes/tile/f.jpghttp://users.tpg.com.au/jselmes/tile/g.jpghttp://users.tpg.com.au/jselmes/tile/v.jpghttp://users.tpg.com.au/jselmes/tile/p.jpghttp://users.tpg.com.au/jselmes/tile/t.jpghttp://users.tpg.com.au/jselmes/tile/u.jpghttp://users.tpg.com.au/jselmes/tile/s.jpghttp://users.tpg.com.au/jselmes/tile/h.jpghttp://users.tpg.com.au/jselmes/tile/d.jpg
drummelars
29th July 2006, 03:55 PM
http://users.tpg.com.au/jselmes/tile/m.jpghttp://users.tpg.com.au/jselmes/tile/n.jpghttp://users.tpg.com.au/jselmes/tile/k.jpg
drummelars
29th July 2006, 03:57 PM
Yeah i took the easy way out and purchased a round hole sqaure at top drain lid.
I could have cut the tile above the drain a little better to adhere to the lines in the tiles but it doesnt matter as its always going to be covered by the washing machine.
I Still have to fit the tub aswell.
To be contunied....................... Grouting to come
drummelars
29th July 2006, 03:59 PM
i aslo just put in the aluminium strip at the door way that was a little bit of an argious task but i pulled it off with ease with th DTA tile cutter.
drummelars
29th July 2006, 04:03 PM
PS: I also done my first architraves around the window to all in all its going well. Still have to touch up a few painted areas put the laundry tub in and shabam i will be done.
its taken about 3 months to get this all finished.
1. Ripped all tiles off wall
2. Ripped cuboard out above taps (BULLCRAP task as it was firmly nailed into the studs)
3. Ripped out rusted tub
4. Ralyed new villaboard
5. Ripped up old crap lino florring
6. Featherd all joints and filled in dings and holes
7. LOTS AND LOADS OF SANDING AND DUST EVERYWHERE
8. bad peeling cornices removed and replaced with all new 90m cornice with NEW cornice all mitres cut by me!
9. Badly peeling roof stipped back to gyprocks
10. Full british paints sealer undercoat the whole room
11. painted 2 coats roof ceiling white
12. 2 coats color
13. painted window jamb and fixed NEW architraves
14. New powerpoints
IT was bloody hard but i tell you its 10000000 times better than the previous condition. So i guess my task has been achived to get it loooking better than it did before( IT was in bad condition so i guess it wasnt that hard to do that)
Dan_574
29th July 2006, 05:44 PM
what a great idea that square drain is, where did you come up with that. (he he)
workgoose
29th July 2006, 05:58 PM
well done mate, looks like a really good job with neat tiling - add paint and you're done!
HJ0
29th July 2006, 09:52 PM
Looking Good:D That square grate looks like it's got you out of bother nicely.;) Can you post a pic of the entrance when/if you can please.
HJ0 Cheers
drummelars
30th July 2006, 12:18 AM
as someone pointed out it was purchased a reece plumbing supplies for $9.65 i think.
not bad and has a good lip height aswell.
Guy
30th July 2006, 12:31 AM
I know it is too late now, but you can buy those cutters you put in a drill that is designed to cut circles, ive got a few and have drilled upto a 100mm hole in floor tiles before. Cost about $60
drummelars
30th July 2006, 10:13 AM
I know it is too late now, but you can buy those cutters you put in a drill that is designed to cut circles, ive got a few and have drilled upto a 100mm hole in floor tiles before. Cost about $60
i tried those but the success was not good
Dan_574
30th July 2006, 11:19 AM
come on drum I was waiting for a pat on the back about my great idea
AaronH
30th July 2006, 01:26 PM
Hello all, I'm new to the forum but am impressed with the amount of good advice flying around.
I know this one has been solved in a round about way but if anyone ever come across this situation again (round waste in the middle of the floor) you should consider the following:
1/ Use the angle grinder to cut in from the back of the tile
2/ Use the nippers to rough out the hole close to the cut line
3/ Use a Dremel (or similar) to grind the cut out to a smooth finish.
Works a treat on ceramic tiles.
drummelars
30th July 2006, 05:19 PM
come on drum I was waiting for a pat on the back about my great idea
its was a great idea, well done im glad you bought it up. TOP STUFF!!!!:):)
drummelars
30th July 2006, 05:20 PM
Hello all, I'm new to the forum but am impressed with the amount of good advice flying around.
I know this one has been solved in a round about way but if anyone ever come across this situation again (round waste in the middle of the floor) you should consider the following:
1/ Use the angle grinder to cut in from the back of the tile
2/ Use the nippers to rough out the hole close to the cut line
3/ Use a Dremel (or similar) to grind the cut out to a smooth finish.
Works a treat on ceramic tiles.
sorry dude im not a nerd! whats a dremel???
cheers Jace
drummelars
30th July 2006, 05:21 PM
Hello all, I'm new to the forum but am impressed with the amount of good advice flying around.
I know this one has been solved in a round about way but if anyone ever come across this situation again (round waste in the middle of the floor) you should consider the following:
1/ Use the angle grinder to cut in from the back of the tile
2/ Use the nippers to rough out the hole close to the cut line
3/ Use a Dremel (or similar) to grind the cut out to a smooth finish.
Works a treat on ceramic tiles.
good odea mate yeah that way you wont ruin the front of the tile and chip it, Dam, that it so obvious i feel like a tool.
HJ0
30th July 2006, 05:35 PM
Whats you plan for cutting round the pipe, or have you done it already.
HJ0 Cheers
drummelars
30th July 2006, 09:57 PM
Whats you plan for cutting round the pipe, or have you done it already.
To be honest mate im going to lay the tub on top of the tiles and prop it up at the back with a small piece of wood to get the height and use he spirit level to get it all squared and level.
I didnt want to have to cut around the pipe hole for the tub because the tub i have has a shelf in the bottom of the tub so you wont see the tiles any way.
This way i dont have to cut the tiles and i will save time and save tiles aswell.
I will just lay it on top of the tiles sorrounding the pipe and it will look flush. A bead of silicone around the bottom and we are good to go.
I thought this way would be easier and it will look flush. If i had put the tub in first i would have had all these cut tiles sorrounding the tub when tiling up to it and would have looked silly.
ill post some pics of grouting
HJ0
31st July 2006, 01:37 AM
Np it's been done before, long as you are happy with the results who cares.:) ;)
HJ0 Cheers Looking good:cool:
Jacksin
31st July 2006, 11:57 AM
Drummelars, I would be a bit wary of putting silicone around the trough cabinet at floor level, unless its a plastic cabinet.
If its metal I would leave the gap open to allow any moisture/condensation to dry out as metal cabinets rust.
drummelars
31st July 2006, 05:44 PM
Drummelars, I would be a bit wary of putting silicone around the trough cabinet at floor level, unless its a plastic cabinet.
If its metal I would leave the gap open to allow any moisture/condensation to dry out as metal cabinets rust.
cool thats a good odea
drummelars
31st July 2006, 09:25 PM
http://users.tpg.com.au/jselmes/bathroom/03.jpg
Grounts in and lookin good for a first attempt.
not bad if i do say so myslef:):):)