New Shed- WIP

[JDub]

Hi all,

Due a new addition to the family our triple car brick garage wont come into existance for many years to come. :rolleyes:

So I have been given pre-approval for a new workshop in the backyard :D

Budget is around $5k max.

As I said its to go in the backyard so no vechile access required, purely storage and workshop area.
The area is a difficult access site but I think it can be overcome. Part of The area is next to a 0.7 retaining wall that seperates the gravel driveway at the front from the backyard. So any excavation/levelling and concrete pouring should be able to be done from the ground/driveway area in front over the wall through part of the fence which is to be temporaily removed?

I have attached a pic of the area. The existing 2.5 x 4m shed (my current workshop) is to stay and be converted to storage or garden equipment shed.

I want the new shed to back onto the old shed. The area available is about 7x4m but taking into account leaving 1m from the boundry this leaves 6x4m.

I was thinking one of the totalspan workshops in 3.5x 4.4 or 3.5 x 5.3 but I am yet to get a quote:
http://www.totalspan.com.au/domestic/workshops.asp

Sorry about the long post....

Thoughts on any or all of the above?

Cheers
Joel

[Harry72]

Total's have a garage thats 6x4 like you need?(bigger is better)

Give shed's online a try they have an online pricing... they'll custom you one 8mX4m by 2.4m high full colourbond for $4387!(take out the old one...)
www.shedsonline.com.au

[JDub]

Gday Harry,

Thanks for the reply. Taking out the old one isnt really an option as its on a slightly different level (about a foot lower) so the cost of removing the slab then excavating further down etc wouldnt be worth it, plus Ive fitted out my little workshop well and it would make a good storage shed for all the garden gear and kids crap ;)

Ive got a while to plan this so I will continue to shop around and weigh up my options.

Anyone in the ACT have any idea what the cost of approval for these things are? and a normal time frame? (cant be arsed ringing the dept and being put on hold for 3 hours just yet :rolleyes: )

Ive seen on the ACT dept planning website that sheds that have a roof area less than 10m2 are exempt from approval but I want something about twice that size.

Cheers
Joel

[JDub]

Found this cheap range as well.....

http://www.shed.com.au/Pages/Workshops.htm

6x3m in colourbond only $1790..... Just the 2.06m wall height bothers me a little (although Im not exactly tall at 5'7") although if its significantly cheaper I might learn live with it ;)


?

[RufflyRustic]

I'm about 5'7 and find my garden shed height way to short for comfort. I'd much prefer 2.7 m as a minimum height, but I too, appreciate the $ side of the shed-buying decision.

cheers
Wendy

[JDub]

Wendy, out of curiosity what is the height of your current workshop?

[RufflyRustic]

Umm, 2.06 metres? It's one of those small backyard zinc sheds
http://www.usq.edu.au/users/hoeyw/images/Wood/whereiwork.JPG

Everytime I walk in the solar kiln (ice box for winter) I tend to duck my head a little, I don't need to but I just do.:rolleyes:

Trying to store 2400 lengths of dar or moulding is near impossible too.:( (probably due to everything else I've jammed in there:rolleyes: )

It's horribly hot in summer as my head is too close to the roof, hence me wanting a 2.7 m shed height minimum.

cheers
Wendy

[E. maculata]

G'day everyone, I've just paid for a new woodworking/ reno shed, (already have a mechanical workshop for the bikes etc:) ) just waiting for it to be manufactured ATM. Ranbuild good quality, good rep, excellent deals on at the time, around 1/2 of the original quotes I got a few months back.
So give them a yell, did me one heck of a deal:D .

Will also back what Wendy stated, used to have a 6x3 workshop in Zinc, way way way too hot.

[ernknot]

Look in the cassifieds, many times there is someone who wants a reasonably good shed removed ( don't know why) you could get a better size and maybe for free. give it a shot.

[JDub]

Cheers,

Think I will try to go with the 2.4 height....
I have sent the attached pic of what I want to a few companys and will see what I get back..... :eek:

Cheers
Joel

[Wild Dingo]

Something that size shouldnt be too hard to come by mate... as Wendy has said look at the height!!

Im 5ft 6 and a bit and although mines 2.6 high its too small!!... see once you stick a loft rack type thing up for your timber storage your height comes down... you also have to have height room for the bloody great bandsaw you will need to buy soon and so one of them low ones would be useless so... look to height!!

In the case of workshops I think BIG is better... get the biggest you can hieght length width big is best... you are gonna fill it pretty quick then what? you will be like everyone else here yellin "HELP me flamin ubeaut new sheds too friggin small"... ooh right thats me :o

okay so in your first pic you show a backyard but say you only have a small area available for the shed?... why?... I mean mate!!! You got a front yard right? so theres the missus's garden area! She doesnt need two garden areas now does she! No she doesnt... and buy her a clothes dryer and toss the hills hoist (note here offset your costs and sell it :) ) if shes really persistant in wanting a clothes line get one of those ones that attach to the wall of the house and fold away against the wall when not in use... kids have a trampolene out there? toss it! theyre dangerous things trampolenes hurt kids they do so toss it what else? sandpit? dangerous things sandpits cats phiss in them!! deseases mate! you dont need one so toss it... so now what have we got there? THE WHOLE BACKYARD!! WHAHOOOOOOOOO!!! Bloody big balltearer of a shed!!... THINK BIG SHED mate :cool: Think timber storage think tool spacial areas think more timber storage think more tools... gawd mate THINK BIG SHED!!! :cool:

There is absolutely NOTHING worse than getting a shed that ends up bein to small and you end up irritated annoyed and frustrated so much you head out there and sit in the moanin chair in the tight corner wedged between the oscillating sander and the bench cryin in your beer and brie cause you "thought" a smaller shed would do :(... ooh right thats me :o

[JDub]

:eek: LOL

I think there are some issues you really need to sit down and work through with someone Dingo, BTW Im not volunteering....:p



Something that size shouldnt be too hard to come by mate... as Wendy has said look at the height!!


Righto Im convinced, you've frightend me into it. I Will go the extra height, but it will put the plans off a bit longer as it will cost me a couple of large more but hey, dont want to end up with deep seated emotional issues and risk contracting low shed syndrome like yourself.



and buy her a clothes dryer and toss the hills hoist (note here offset your costs and sell it :) ) if shes really persistant in wanting a clothes line get one of those ones that attach to the wall of the house and fold away against the wall when not in use...

Already done both of those :)



There is absolutely NOTHING worse than getting a shed that ends up bein to small and you end up irritated annoyed and frustrated so much you head out there and sit in the moanin chair in the tight corner wedged between the oscillating sander and the bench cryin in your beer and brie cause you "thought" a smaller shed would do :(... ooh right thats me :o

What you have room for a chair? your lucky ;) In my current 4x2.5 excuse for a workshop I sit on my little workbench with half the vice up me clacker.

Id better start saving hey?:o

Joel

[Doughboy]

Hey JDub with regards to the mob at the planning and land blah blah blah in Dickson they are slow... slow ... slow. I wanted approval for a 7m x 7m x 2.7 workshop and it took six weeks for the mongrels to tell me my neighbour was afraid i would turn it into a furniture business, i am a chef and barely have time to scratch my #### so when i am sposed to do all my furniture making i am not sure:confused: ......oops i digress. Palm are slow but if you are within all the regulations then it should be fine.
BTW I had nearly finished organising my workshop when my wife decided she wanted to buy a bigger house... so now i am starting all over again:eek:. Dont choose small for money sake cos in the end you will kick yourself for being an idiot and then you will spend more money on what you should have got in the first place...:o

Pedro

[JDub]

Hey JDub with regards to the mob at the planning and land blah blah blah in Dickson they are slow... slow ... slow. I wanted approval for a 7m x 7m x 2.7 workshop and it took six weeks for the mongrels to tell me my neighbour was afraid i would turn it into a furniture business, i am a chef and barely have time to scratch my #### so when i am sposed to do all my furniture making i am not sure:confused: ......oops i digress. Palm are slow but if you are within all the regulations then it should be fine.


Thanks for the heads up Pedro, I will allow plenty of time.... :rolleyes:

Do you have a copy of the regulations or do you know where to find em? I had a look on the ACT land and planning authority website but cant find them for looking..... :o

Need to know things like distance from boundry, whether they require connection to stormwater etc etc.

Cheers
Joel

[Auzzie turner]

I'm 6 foot 1 inch, and my shed is 8 foot high. Usually I have 1 to 1 and a half feet of sawdust on the floor, leaves me with around half a foot above my head. I'll have to either get rid of the sawdust, or get a higher roof. I think you should get a roof around 2.8 meters high.

Regards.....Joash

[Doughboy]

Joel

The actpla site has a form online that you can print off and fill out at your leisure, but you will need to get the site plans drawn up by a drafts person. We used JKR Designs in holt. She is good and thorough and not too $$$. things that need to be shown are NGL (natural ground level) distances from existing buildings and fences, positioning of easements and if the shed is to replace an existing shed then the demolition and removal of the present one needs to be documented also.

BTW if you are planning on installing a water tank do not apply foir the rebate from the government because they will happily give youa pitance of a rebate and then you will receive a bill every year for water catchment. Yes they charge you for using your own house/shed roof to use as garden water because you no longer use water they can charge for... an absolute rort if i have ever seen one!!

Pete

[A192K]

Hi
my thoughts are that if you go to 2.7 with a 15 deg pithched roof you will actually have about 3.0 MT at its peak,and beleive me unless you are building a factory its about as big as the shed companies go.you could design and purchase all the steel from a Metal Merchant and build yourself.
in regards to Council Approval.get your neighbors to sign a Letter that you have drafted giving you permission to erect a shed,if they wont sign it that sort of gives you a heads up as to their intent.and if it is signed well normally its a small walk through council to have it approved
good luck

[JDub]

Ok, here is a sketch of site and what it looks like the final dimensions will be.... 6m long, 3.5m wide, 2.4 high.

Have told SWMBO may cost a touch more than $5k and she didnt protest too much ;)
Only condition I have is that the backyard landscaping is finished first..... :( Looks like my new workshop is at least 6 months off :eek:

[Glenn_M]

I've got the same size almost (6 x 3.6) If you can go to 2.7 high then I would highly recommend it. Cost me less than $100 extra for the higher walls and it makes so much difference.

These are not big sheds and the extra height gives a feeling of not being so enclosed. Also provides for wall space for hanging things (storage a real issue in small sheds).

Also in hotter times the heat radiated internally by sun on the roof can be vicious. Having that roof higher on sunny days is the best reason I reckon.

Also appears to have better air circulation due to the greater volume.

Just a few thoughts. Cheers.

[JDub]

I've got the same size almost (6 x 3.6) If you can go to 2.7 high then I would highly recommend it. Cost me less than $100 extra for the higher walls and it makes so much difference.



Thanks for the input :D

I am concerned that if I go 2.7 high it will look like an massive industrial shed in my backyard....:confused:

[JDub]

Things to look for when shopping for a shed....


Height options (cost re: 2.4 v 2.7m)
Does it come with plans for council?
Does it come with detailed Plans for DIY construction?
Cost with and without Slab?
Guttering etc included?
Cost of roof insulation?
Deilvery charges?


Am I missing anything?

[echnidna]

Things to look for when shopping for a shed....


Height options (cost re: 2.4 v 2.7m)
Does it come with plans for council?
Does it come with detailed Plans for DIY construction?
Cost with and without Slab?
Guttering etc included?
Cost of roof insulation?
Deilvery charges?


Am I missing anything?

yep - cost of a timber floor instead of a slab:D

[A192K]

Things to look for when shopping for a shed....


Height options (cost re: 2.4 v 2.7m)
costs about 800 more

Does it come with plans for council?
it can but of course you will pay shed company

Does it come with detailed Plans for DIY construction?
i know Totalspan does,others i cant say(but if sold as DIY then it must

Cost with and without Slab?
slab costs about 60-70 dollars a square @100mm thick (in Qld that is)

Guttering etc included?
gutters are part of kit

Cost of roof insulation?
mine cost 400 dollars for 6x4 (foil bubble type)

i did all the walls and that was about 60sq mts of 3.5 bats,as well as builders paper

as for flooring,i laid 6mm exterior ply on concrete floor,then i have put some old parquetry on top of that just to use it up,all i have done is sanded it and a quick cote of oil,

Deilvery charges?
depends how far from CBD you are,my shed cost 150 to be delivered


Am I missing anything?

lights,
sub board,
3 phase cabling/sockets?
GP 1.5 /1.0 cable
switches,lights,plugs,15A sockets
locks
fastners
whirlybird
if insulated,will you have interior walls?
what kind of entry doors will you have?
communication with main house?
wirless support?
tv antenna?
bar fridge?( amust to impress your mates)

then start to fill it with tools/machinery,

hope this helps
cheers

[JDub]

lights,
switches,lights,plugs

Plan to run all the cabling, mount the fluros and power outlets then get a sparky to wire up and check.



locks


Keyed personal access door is a must for me (I hate padlocks)



fastners


for the construction of the shed you mean? I assume they would come with kit....



whirlybird


Hopefully not necessary



if insulated,will you have interior walls?


Not planning to insulate walls at this stage, just the roof to stop condensation and direct heat on roof.



what kind of entry doors will you have?


1 single keyed personal access door, 1 roller door



communication with main house?


Mobile phone for emergencies ;) apart from that I dont want to make it too easy to call me in :cool:




bar fridge?( amust to impress your mates)


Might have to move the beer fridge from the laundry.... nah, will just get another one. You cant have too many beer fridges can you :p



then start to fill it with tools/machinery,


:eek:

Not sure if I should go with a window or not.... probably should I guess


Cheers
Joel

[JDub]

Ok, being doing some shopping ;)

Will definately be going 6.0 x 3.5 x 2.7 high :)

Roller door, Personal Access door and single Window.

Have got 3 quotes and all of them are within $100 of $3500.

Will also get roof insulation (an extra couple of hundred)


I was most impressed with the service and comprehensiveness (is that a word ;)) of the Fair Dinkum shed range and local distributer. Totalspan were also pretty good but will probably go with Fair Dinkum.
Was very unimpressed with the local Ranbuild distributor.

Uncle is a draftsmen so he is doing the site plan for me, brother in law is a concreter so if I can drag his lazy #### away from 'Fishing Australia' on a weekend he will do the slab.
Getting quotes on the site prep in the next couple of weeks.

Only issue is because I am going 500mm with the boundry fence council requires me to go through a public notification process that can take up to three months :eek: Arrr well at least something is happening!!!

[Dean]

FWIW, I just put in an order for a 9m x 5m x 2.7m (H) shed with TotalSpan a week or two ago.

At the time, they were the cheapest option among Titan, Sheds Online, Ranbuild, and just about every other shed place I got a quote from. Doesn't mean they are the cheapest for every size of course!

Slab is supposed to go in about about 2 weeks from now, with the shed shortly after.

Meanwhile, I'm digging out the turf and levelling the site manually with a shovel (used all the budget on the shed) :)

[E. maculata]

Meanwhile, I'm digging out the turf and levelling the site manually with a shovel :)

I fully sympathasis with you Dean, hopefully it's not too hard a going at your joint, as I'm currently demolishing a couple of mid size garden sheds, removed a decades old chook shed and associated vines on the weekend so I can continue with my slab prep, formwork, hopefully the pour in 2-4 weeks, also need to deal with highly reactive soil issues.

Note to other forumites, if you are ever tempted to ensconce your sheds base within a deep layer of structural grade concrete..............DON'T some poor beggar will one day be trying to remove it from said concrete prison:(

[glock40sw]

G'day All.
I went for 3.0M wall height.
Plenty of room under a loft timber storage area.

Also have storage on top of the dunny for storing chrissy lights and associated chrissy stuff.
The other side has a loft metal storage area.
3 metre walls allows for the installation of a 2 post car hoist in the near future.

[RufflyRustic]

HWMBO got my hopes up yesterday for getting my shed this year. Then they got dashed when I showed him the actual pricing I'd estimated (based on good research of course).

Seems like it's time to go round all the shed places and get an updated quote.:rolleyes: Especially now that this thread has highlighted all the other bits that a shed should have, guttering etc etc.

I'm really appreciating this thread. Would love to know of any tips/hints/heads up points you guys come across while getting your sheds set up.

cheers
Wendy

[JDub]

I'm really appreciating this thread. Would love to know of any tips/hints/heads up points you guys come across while getting your sheds set up.

cheers
Wendy

Will document the process and what it costs me here as I go along Wendy :D

As you can see above I took the advice of the good people on this forum and have decieded on 2.7 high, difference between 2.4 is only $140.

Im getting the bobcat in next week to do some work in my backyard so I am getting him to prepare the site whilst he is there. He is doing the site prep and also some unrelated excavation work. He will be there for half a day and will have to take some soil/fill away.
Cost= $400 cash.

My uncle is doing the site plans for me (hes a draftsmen) Cost= $bottle of plonk or case'o'beer.

Due to the public notification needed etc, It will be about 3-4 months before the shed actually goes up I think.... So I have plenty of time to document the process :o

[HappyHammer]

Due to the public notification needed etc, It will be about 3-4 months before the shed actually goes up I think.... So I have plenty of time to document the process :o

Holy sh|t !! 3-4 months? I'm building a 2 storey extension on the side of my house at the moment and it took 4 weeks for the council to advertise in the local papers and send all of my neighbours a letter and wait for a response.

You should make this an issue at your next local election, that's outrageous.

Good luck with the shed.:)

HH.

[RufflyRustic]

Thanks JDub.

I know I should aim for a 2700 high shed, but if I can't get what I want for a good (re affordable) price, then I might have to go for 2400 :(

My estimate so far:
$2395 6 x 4m zinc, 2400 high, with various doors & windows and hold downs (have to follow up on guttering)
$400 Council & Insurance fees
$1000 Concrete Slab
$500 Power

Total $4295
Estimate $700 for the unexpected and little extras that are bound to pop up somewhere.

Cheers
Wendy

[JDub]

Holy sh|t !! 3-4 months? I'm building a 2 storey extension on the side of my house at the moment and it took 4 weeks for the council to advertise in the local papers and send all of my neighbours a letter and wait for a response.

You should make this an issue at your next local election, that's outrageous.

Good luck with the shed.:)

HH.

Cheers, and yep apparantly 30-45 working days depending upon whether objections are made... thats up to 9 weeks :eek:

Plus I havnt got my site plan finished yet so by the time I get that in a week or two, your looking at about 10 weeks for the approval process. Then I gotta get an inspection pre-pour, then put it up and get it inspected again :mad: Ridiculous. No wonder so many around these parts just whack em up and dont bother jumping through all the councils hoops.

I'll be happy to have it up by Christmas ;)

[JDub]

$2395 6 x 4m zinc, 2400 high, with various doors & windows and hold downs (have to follow up on guttering)


All the quotes I got from the different companies included guttering as standard.

[JDub]

Just come back from my local Totalspan dealer getting final quotes etc...

Re: insulation. They reckon because of the 15 degree roof pitch on their sheds condensation isnt an issue as it simply runs off (doesnt drip) if it occurs. Thoughts?

If I did want insulation they sell a type of foil sheet that has bubble wrap type material sandwiched in between it. Said it was R 2.5.

Cost for my shed to insulate the roof was $300.

Main reason I was thinking of insulation was to stop condensation, if it wont be an issue should I save myself the few hundred?

[DJ’s Timber]

Just come back from my local Totalspan dealer getting final quotes etc...

Re: insulation. They reckon because of the 15 degree roof pitch on their sheds condensation isnt an issue as it simply runs off (doesnt drip) if it occurs. Thoughts?

If I did want insulation they sell a type of foil sheet that has bubble wrap type material sandwiched in between it. Said it was R 2.5.

Cost for my shed to insulate the roof was $300.

Main reason I was thinking of insulation was to stop condensation, if it wont be an issue should I save myself the few hundred?

It will still drip. It might still run off, but it will hit the first purloin and drip of that. When I open my shed after a night when condensation has formed, there is normally a few nicely formed rows of water drops on the floor below the purloins. Same under my carport as well

[JDub]

Okay,

Getting somewhere now.....

I have ordered the shed (went with Fairdinkum sheds)

6.0 x 3.5 x 2.7 high
Two large windows (1700 x 900)
Personal access door and Roller door
Builders blanket insulation and mesh for roof
= $4050


Submitted the plans to council = $150

Awaiting plans to be approved, needs to go to neighbour notification as I am going within 1.5m of side boundry.


Joel

[Wild Dingo]

Definantly get the insulation! Dont believe the buggars! Condensation will form it will drip and if like me it will drip right smack dab ontop of the ruddy machines!! :mad:

So get the insulation AND get some covers for the machines just in case... I used some old tarp just cut to length and toss over them at the end of each day keeps any wayward moisture of the machine :cool:

They do like to do their little checkies dont they? Mine wanted/expected to do a check once the pad was down then when the shed was at FRAME stage then again at completion!... so I said phookem! and its up and in use!! they want to come have a gander they come have a gander! but Im stuffed if Im going to be chasing them! :mad:

[Wood Butcher]

I'm 6 foot 1 inch, and my shed is 8 foot high. Usually I have 1 to 1 and a half feet of sawdust on the floor, leaves me with around half a foot above my head. I'll have to either get rid of the sawdust, or get a higher roof. I think you should get a roof around 2.8 meters high.

Regards.....Joash

I know this is dragging up an old posts, but I would not be bragging about having that much sawdust on the floor. I would be getting in with a shovel and cleaning it up!!!

[JDub]

They do like to do their little checkies dont they? Mine wanted/expected to do a check once the pad was down then when the shed was at FRAME stage then again at completion!... so I said phookem! and its up and in use!! they want to come have a gander they come have a gander! but Im stuffed if Im going to be chasing them! :mad:


Yer apparantly round these parts you need an inspection (done by a private certifier) pre-pour - when the formwork and mesh are down. And then again at completion of the shed. Yet to find out how much brass a private certifier is going to cost me :rolleyes:

[JDub]

Tossing up ATM whether to put this thing up myself or get the pros to do it.
I am organising/doing the slab etc myself but am a little concerned about erecting the actual shed myself (have heard some horror stories and I dont wanna stuff it up). It has two large windows, access door, roller door, roof insulation.....

Quote given to me to put the thing up was $1200. Do you think this is reasonable? Has anyone out there put up a fairdinkum shed themselves?

[woodsprite]

Sounds like you are going to get a decent shed- eventually. One tip: if you can manage, do the slab first (of course) and let it sit for as long as you can before building over it. When I got the rest of my largish shed concreted a while back, it was WET for weeks - the evaporation of the water from the concrete condensed on the roof ( 3m) and dripped off every purlin under the roof. Took a long time for the slab to stop creating a micro climate. Of course you need to let the cure take place slowly, but under plastic is probably better than uner the roof of your new pride and joy!
Keep at it,
Jeff

[JDub]

Thanks Jeff,

I will post some pics of the site prep in the next day or so, just to prove I am actually getting somewhere (all be it, slowly):o

Well, it will make me feel better anyway.

Thanks for the tip Re: slab curing time.

[Doughboy]

Jdub

Just so you know what the pricks a actpla did for me. Diddly!!!!

They sent me a list of must do's and so I passed this on to the bloke who did my slab and drive. He took a look and said f@%k them if they are here every morning before 9 am they can have a look if not they can go to blazes.

I asked why 9 and he said that no-one should pour concrete after 9 cos it is too hot and the concrete goes off too quickly in the november heat. Most concreters I spoke to agreed and so I took it to be true. If the concrete cures too quickly it compromises the structural integrity altogether.

We poured over five days and never after 9. The inspectors only turned up one day and that was on the last pour ( not even the shed) and spent two minutes looking at the prep and then jumped in his ute and drove off. My shed slab is 200 mm thick with rio mesh throughout, the driveway is 150 mm thick with the same gauge rio in as well. I wanted extra strength just incase we ever wanted a truck to be able to drive on the concrete.

Better safe than sorry.

The shed was erected by myself and three neighbours. One weekend and a bbq with three slabs of beer later it was all done. Electrics were run to the shed underground by a sparky and then I did the rest of the wiring myself under the supervision of my FIL. He signed of on it and I took the paperwork to ACTEW in Tuggeranong and they stamped it. Voila all done.

My shed size is 13m x 6m x 2.7m (eaves) and 3m at the ridge. Two three metre roller doors one front one back, a PA door and two 1200 sliding aluminium windows. Two circuits to the shed one for lights and the other a 15 amp for power. Double power points x 8, Double Flouros x 3. It was meant to hold our cars but in the end there just was not enough room. BUT my Triumph 1200 did make it in JUST...


Pete

[JDub]

Jdub

Just so you know what the pricks a actpla did for me. Diddly!!!!

They sent me a list of must do's and so I passed this on to the bloke who did my slab and drive. He took a look and said f@%k them if they are here every morning before 9 am they can have a look if not they can go to blazes.

How long ago was this? Has to be done by a private certifier now I think.
An inspection pre pour and one on completion of the whole shed.





I asked why 9 and he said that no-one should pour concrete after 9 cos it is too hot and the concrete goes off too quickly in the november heat. Most concreters I spoke to agreed and so I took it to be true.

My BIL is doing the concrete for me, 1 pour, will just make sure we start early.:cool:





The shed was erected by myself and three neighbours. One weekend and a bbq with three slabs of beer later it was all done.



Hard to do? Any problems with windows etc? What make of shed is it?



Electrics were run to the shed underground by a sparky and then I did the rest of the wiring myself under the supervision of my FIL. He signed of on it and I took the paperwork to ACTEW in Tuggeranong and they stamped it. Voila all done.


I wasnt aware I needed to get the electrics signed off by ACTEW?:confused:



Sounds like a sweet shed Pete, If only I had that much room ;)

[Wild Dingo]

Yep even here the electrician has to sign off on the work done... weve already had several discussions about the electrics in my shed... one future S-I-L reckons just hard wire it ourselves easy enough to get the wire and circuits and all the gear... other future S-I-L is a lighting tech and leccy and hes sayin dont be so bloody stupid you cant do it yourself only a qualified leccy can... man those two are as contrary as is possible :rolleyes: ;)

me Im scared shyteless of lectrics bein colorblind and with a healthy respect for the deadly power of a faulty setup I will be going the way of the second F-S-I-L in fact hes going to do it!! all right an propa! :cool: well hes doin the wiring my son is doin the digging of the trench to the house! ;) thats what havin so many kids does for you!! :cool:

Present thinking is to leave it as it is for now and wire it all up when the new house is about to happen (and after the next shed has been bought thats the shed her bloody highness is as yet unaware of and is secretly going to be bought by the one with the credit card who buys these things... ala me! :) )

Then the sheds can be wired and as the house goes up next to it the tools and such can be accessed through the shed and its only a hop skip and a jump to wire the house! :cool:

[JDub]

Okay some progress pics...... site prep.

Had to remove an old garden shed and bust up the dodgy slab under it....

[JDub]

Then because I had to do a slight site cut (350 at the deepest point), I put in a small retaining wall, went with 200x75 TP as most of it is behind the shed out of site so I didnt need a feature wall.....

The hole in the fence was necessary to get the bobcat in from the front yard, leaving the section out now till the shed is up, access for concrete etc etc

Next step, install drainage, backfill wall and then the slab...:rolleyes:

[JDub]

Right,

Because Im killing time at work ;) Ive been thinking about the electrical set up I will need in my new shed.

Because I am relative newbie to the world of woodworking I really only have basic machinary ATM (mitre saw, various hand power tools etc).....

I am hoping to expand this in the future :cool:

That in mind, what electrical set up would you suggest for my 6 x 3.5 x 2.7 workshop?

15 amp outlet?
how many standard 10a outlets? Wall mounted? Hanging from roof?
Lighting? (was thinking 3 x double fluros down the length of the shed and maybe one above the main bench??)

Please remember I do have a budget!!! LOL

Any advice/suggestions welcomed!!!

[HappyHammer]

Lighting? (was thinking 3 x double fluros down the length of the shed and maybe one above the main bench??)

Wow 4 doubles that sounds like a lot, my new garage http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=39001 is 9m by 4.3m and I'm only putting in two double flouros am I under cooking it?

HH.

[JDub]

Wow 4 doubles that sounds like a lot, my new garage http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=39001 is 9m by 4.3m and I'm only putting in two double flouros am I under cooking it?

HH.


That is the question isnt it? Are you under cooking or am I burning it to a crisp? ;)

[DJ’s Timber]

My 9 x 6 mt shed, when I finally get round to putting it back up had, 9 double fluros and I will put 9 back in again

[Wild Dingo]

Yep... Ive discussed this with FSL (leccy) and his boss who came to have a yarn about what we need to do yesty... hes sayin cause Ive got 9x6 shed and have 4mtr bench down one side wall x 8mts of benches down the long side for those alone I should have 3 doubles over the benches for the smaller bench work (and cause the 4mtr one and the opposing 4 mtr bench are both under the timber loft) I should also have at least 4 in the main area above the tools/workarea and also one over the lathe (again under the timber loft) weve decided on a minimum of 8 double fluros and will allow for 2 more if we find we need them... I agree with him that lighting is needed and the numbers sound about right on what I was thinking... maybe singles under the timber loft and a couple of downlight type things over the benchs? Im still considering that as an option

And were installing 6 sheets of perspecx sheeting on the roof along with windows to the front (I dont call the shed the "cave" for nothing!)... the powerpoints... well thats just bloody huge!! ;)

Double above the lathe... then a double just before the 4mtr bench for the spindle sander and compressor then 2 doubles on the 4mtr bench around to the other benches and Im thinking 4 doubles along that area (for the grinders and drill press) a dedicated single for the dusty next to that then one double on the far wall for extra one on the final wall for the same... I will be having a a double either side of the main support beam (only one in the first bay other bays stayed up without the need for a support :rolleyes: roof sagged long story :p ) these will serve the router table and bandsaw which reside next to the beam there will be a pair of outlets on chains hanging from the roof over the jointer/thicknesser/table saw.

Outside were going for 2 double motion sensored spots in each corner of the roof along with an separate outside light and an outside powerpoint at each doorway... I always like outside powerpoints cause yer never know when you need to run a lead out there... like up to the new house when it starts going up... better to run a short 20mtr lead from the shed than a 80 to 100 mtrs from the old house :rolleyes:

No 3phase... Id like it but then of course it would cost a heck of a lot more... AND Id have to replace all my tools :eek: ...mmmmm now why hadnt that crossed my mind while they were here! :D

And yes Im on a budget too!! ergo the FSIL doin it!! (under his bosses supervision of course as hes still an apprentice sparky) Ive also been told that if we can keep the new house to budget I can get a second shed!!! ;) aahh she do loves me! :p So believe you me that new house will come in UNDER bloody budget!! :cool:

aaahhh I can see it now... this 9mtr x 6mtr shed the 40ft seatainer behind it as a finishin room (wired of course! ;) ) a nice new 20mtr x 20mtr shed... and the new wee tiny 1 bedroom cottage out the back!! :D ah shyte I'll just get a ruddy great tent for this mob!! I can live in the shed :cool: ;)

[JDub]

Draft electricity plan..... thoughts? critisisms? Improvements?

[Doughboy]

I would possibly put a couple of 10 amp outlets near the workbench and perhaps make the hanger a 15 amp instead of a 10. But that is just being picky.

Looking forward to seeing it progress.

Pete

[Auld Bassoon]

Wow 4 doubles that sounds like a lot, my new garage http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=39001 is 9m by 4.3m and I'm only putting in two double flouros am I under cooking it?

HH.

I believe that you are under doing it.

You need 5000 Kelvin lighting, ie akin to daylight (subject to correction by the more learned!) for the main bench and over/around any machine.

For a finishing bench, you need directed light to highlight any scratches or imperfections so angled incandescents are best there.

For a new shed, I'd go for at least 2 15A circuits and a 10A socket every 2 ~ 3 metres around the shed. Much cheaper to do when conducting the initial installation than later on, and no blerry extensions leads!

[Auld Bassoon]

ah shyte I'll just get a ruddy great tent for this mob!! I can live in the shed :cool: ;)

Stuff it Dingo! Just put some hammocks under the benches, and a shower & w/c outside :D :D :D

[JDub]

I would possibly put a couple of 10 amp outlets near the workbench and perhaps make the hanger a 15 amp instead of a 10. But that is just being picky.

Looking forward to seeing it progress.

Pete

Your eyes failing in your old age Pete? :D :p In the pic there are two 10a outlets, one on either side of the workbench..... unless you mean the other side/shelving unit/bench?

Problem is, not having much machinery ATM (nothing that requires 15a anyway) I dont really know what I need yet, so you blokes gotta tell me :rolleyes:

[DJ’s Timber]

I would consider running 2 rows of single fluros rather then 1 row of doubles, less likely to have shadows with 2 rows. And what Steve says about p/points (every 2~3mts). Maybe get the 15 amps put in when you need them, as you should then know where you will need them when you get the machinery requiring the 15 amps

[JDub]

I have submitted the plans to ACT planning and land authority (our local council for approval which comes with fee of course) but now ACTPLA dont do any of the building certifications themselves, you have to employ a private certifier to do that.... and they all change a min of about $500 :eek:

and they also require a builder or owner builder to put it up by the sounds of it.... what a heap of friggin crap....
This means if I want to put it up myself I have to get a owner builders sheet not to mention the $700 of fees I have to pay to the council and certifier.... Dont think I can afford to get it put up by the pros anymore :(

makes you wanna tell em to get stuffed and not get is approved at all.....:mad:

Oh and then theres the electrical safety sheet your sparkie has to fill in and submit to ACT electricity and water as well....

No wonder people dont bother, its only a small friggin garden shed!!!!!!!!!

ARRRGGGGGGHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!

For #@*s sake :rolleyes:

Joel<!-- / message --><!-- sig -->

[Waldo]

G'day JDub,

On your fluro setup (excluding the one above your workbench) set them up in banks of two across the depth of your shed so you end up having 6 in total which will give better light.

Oh, djstimber has already said the same, well I'll back up what he said.

Maybe also consider some laserlite sheeting to give some natural light.

[JDub]

G'day JDub,

On your fluro setup (excluding the one above your workbench) set them up in banks of two across the depth of your shed so you end up having 6 in total which will give better light.

Oh, djstimber has already said the same, well I'll back up what he said.

Maybe also consider some laserlite sheeting to give some natural light.

Thanks for the tip re: lighting (again ;))

I didnt want to go with laserlight as where I live it would just cause heaps of condensation in winter and heat in summer.... I Have two large windows in the design so hopefully that will provide some good natural light :)

[JDub]

Had my electrician in the other day for some prelim advice on what I need and were to run cabling etc.

6mm cable from metre box to shed, up to a small sub board, Probably just have three circuits, 1 for a 15amp point (no 15amp equip ATM but I want one just in case I upgrade in the future), 1 for general powerpoints and 1 lighting circuit. I think this should do the job for my small workshop.

Dont think I will bother with the hanging point as I think the shed is too small to bother.... wall points are within reach.

Slab going down in a week..... things is happening... ;) :D

[JDub]

revised electricity plan, includes location of sub board and new elect cable entry point. (yep ok its friday at work and the crickets a bit slow ;))

I added another couple of points (is 6 x 10amp double outlets overkill in a shed this size?) mmmm maybe

Also I changed the orientation of the double fluros to run across the width of the shed rather than down the length, given the shed isnt real big (wide) this will hopefully give me good light coverage without having to get twice as many single lights ;)

Electrician seems to think I should have 3 circuits.

1 for lighting
1 for the 10 amp points
1 for the single 15 amp point

Thoughts?

[DJ’s Timber]

Looks good to me, that light setup will work better.

Maybe consider one power point on the the short wall on the left of the PA door in the middle, you can never have enough power points.

[Chris Parks]

Use 3 pin ceiling roses for light connections. This way you can use double adapters or even extension leads to move or add lights. I have doubled the lights in my garage over the years and all I had to do was use double adaptors. Best thing I ever did was listen to the electrician who advised me to use them. You can also put in extra roses in case you want to use them in the future and again it is then a simple matter toi just plug in a light is needed and they cost very little.

[JDub]

Finished the retaining wall, road base in (only pretty thin), footings dug (oversized), electrical conduit in, formwork up, mesh and plastic down, Slab finally down poured today (3 cubic metres). BIL has done a fantastic job with the slab, finish like glass :)

I have put a big canvas dropsheet and some old towels down over it and will wet them a couple of times a day for the next couple of days so it cures nice and hard :)

[JDub]

More pics different angel, and pic of my BIL working hard while I give him lip from the sidelines ;) :cool:

[DJ’s Timber]

Looking good JDub

[JDub]

Last ones for a while I promise :) :p

[Harry72]

She'll be up before you know it!

[JDub]

Updated cost so far (for wendy and anyone else interested)

$4080 : Shed, incl. windows, insulation etc etc
$40: Case of beer for my uncle to draw up site plans ;)
$140: Council fees for design and siting approval
$40: 1 metre of roadbase
$200: 2 sheets of f72 Mesh and Plastic for Slab
$630: 3 cubic metres of Concrete
$40: Case of beer for BIL to lay/finish the slab
$160: Lighting (4x twin 4ft Fluros)

Total so far: $5330


Also about $600+ for retaining wall around shed and site clean up but Im not going to count that as part of my budget as it needed to be done anyway ;)

[DJ’s Timber]

Started putting that shed up yet JDub?

[JDub]

Started putting that shed up yet JDub?

Nah, its on order :rolleyes: I missed the pre-christmas order date.

Hopefully will get it by early/mid January. :cool:

I walk out onto the concrete slab most afternoons after work and pretend Im in my workshop ;) Ive been planning the electrical etc in the meantime to keep me occupied :o

Ive been tracking your Shed thread with interest as well :)

Cheers
Joel

[DJ’s Timber]

Thats a bugger. Hopefully they will get onto yours straight after the hols and you just might get yours up before mine :p :D

[JDub]

Hopefully they will get onto yours straight after the hols and you just might get yours up before mine :p :D


Maybe ;) Wanna race?:p

It will give me time to paint/seal the slab before the shed goes up anyway.... Then once its up I can start doing the fun stuff and fitting it out :)

[JDub]

Update:

I acid etched the slab (http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?p=439774#post439774) on the weekend as preperation for putting some paving paint down this coming weekend.

Hope to put the actual shed up on the Australia day long weekend....

[JDub]

Just a couple of pic of the painted slab..... :D

[DJ’s Timber]

Wonder how long it will stay that clean :U :q

[JDub]

:2tsup: Now what is a more Aussie way to spend Australia day than putting up a shed........? :2tsup: :D

First two pics of the some of the bits and bobs waiting to be attacked...

And the last two pics are the progress at the end of day 1. 90% of the frame is up, just need to do the roller door header and jambs and then onto the sheeting.....

Only snag we have hit is there is two small brackets missing for the roller door header, will have to go out tomorrow morning and buy something suitable (will only need a couple of small L brackets so shouldnt be hard to find)

Both windows are in, All is plum and square :2tsup: Nice and bloody high too with the 2.7m walls...

Was a bit sore a couple of hours ago but seems to have improved with each well earned stubbie :q Was bloody hot today too, I reckon I have sunburnt palms from the hot steel.... not that Im complaining :rolleyes: :)

Should have her finished by the end of the long weekend :D


Joel

[DJ’s Timber]

Looking good Joel.

On the middle truss, get yourself some selfdrilling metal screws and put some in the pressed metal fittings to stop it sagging. It dosen't matter how tight you do those bolts up it will sag when you get on the roof to screw it down and it also helps if you put a temporary prop under it as well.

[Wild Dingo]

I agree totally!! Support that centre truss!! And whack in as many extra tecks you can... BETTER YET!! get a steel purlin and jam the buggar under it!! :o

No seriously... okay mine was 9x6 with 3mtr spans (ergo 2 trusses in the middle) which I think from memory yours is 6x3? then the centre one is 3 mtrs from both ends right? What happened with mine was the damned centre ones drooped BADLY! :o :~ So the only fix was to either take it down an start again reinforcing as much as possible as we put it back together... not an option!! We had ONE DAY to get that buggar up so takin it down wasnt an option... second choice to leave 2 of the lads working while me an one of the FSL bolted 100 klicks down the road to pick up 2 6mtr lengths of C channel from his dads farm the back 100 klicks... so we cut one length to fit the height and jammed tha buggar under the first middle truss this meant the shed wasnt wide open inside but still... then looking at the second truss it was also drooping badly so cut the remainder of the C channel to length and used it as a brace giving me one 3x6 area and one 6x6 area... and one length of C channel spare!! But by gawd shes up an that roof aint goin nowhere! :2tsup:

Otherwise Joel shes looking flamin brilliant! WELL DONE!! :2tsup:

[JDub]

Looking good Joel.

On the middle truss, get yourself some selfdrilling metal screws and put some in the pressed metal fittings to stop it sagging. It dosen't matter how tight you do those bolts up it will sag when you get on the roof to screw it down


Thanks for the tip DJ and WD.... I will whack some extra teks in the apex brackets before i sheet the roof tomorrow.... :cool: and yep its a 6 x 3.5 x 2.7 (h)

Today was a fiddly day, took us till after lunch to sort out the roller door and the associated jambs etc... half the battle was its not a standard design with the roller door in the side which made life difficult, ended up having to buy a couple of extra brackets from the hardware store and some extra teks screws and some bolts etc to mount it.... the roller door came with coach screws for wood to mount its support brackets! (real bloody handy :rolleyes: ) got there in the end though :rolleyes: was a real royal PITA though....

Got the back wall sheets on, the PA door in and started doing the front wall sheeting... hopefully tomorrow (with all the fiddly crap out of the way) we will make some real head way.....

anyway..... progress shots from the end of day 2 below :2tsup:

Joel

[DJ’s Timber]

Coming along nicely Joel :2tsup:, the roller doors can be fiddly buggers to put in can't they.

[JDub]

All done! Took 3 full days but we took our time and made sure we didnt make any mistakes :wink: All has turned out well... looks just like a bought one....

Only thing that needs to be done to the outside is the downpipes fitted.... but I am holding off on that cause I wanna see if I can find a small water tank that will fit behind the shed....

Here are some pics from the outside of the structure all finished :2tsup:

[JDub]

And a pic of the inside, I have since fitted 4 large metal shelving units in the shed and started filling it up and have started moving in my tools and machines from the small shed next door (will now be the garden and storage shed)... I will post pics soon of it getting fitted out.

I have also run all the wiring (will post some pics when I take em) and mounted all the points, just waiting for my electrician to come along and hook up the juice :D

Final pic is of the middle apex bracket with extra teks as suggested :wink: It didnt move at all when the roof went on :2tsup: (I actually put extra teks in all the apex and haunch brackets.... 'just in casers' ;))

[DJ’s Timber]

Well done mate :2tsup:, you have done a excellent job there, better than the professionals I reckon :roll:.

Now tell me, what are all those left over bits on the ground :o

[Bleedin Thumb]

Mate looking at that shed just gave me flashbacks of when I lived in Canberra as a kid. The old man had a shed not disimilar but he kept a tiger moth in it that he was doing up with a mate. Next an old Austin.
It was cool having a plane* in your garage as a kid.


*Flying type not a darksiders toy.

PS Great shed don't get lost in there.

[JDub]

Now tell me, what are all those left over bits on the ground :o

LOL, actually I have a couple of full 3m sheets of colorbond left over, plus some rather large offcuts (plus the 'cover sheets' which are in pretty good nick). When supplying the wall sheets they must give you enough sheets to clad the shed if you dont have a PA door or any windows... :Shrugs:

Anyway, now I have plenty to make my daughter a matching cubby house when she gets a little older :wink: :cool: Will just store it under the house.

Bleedin, not quite big enough to get lost in but I will damn sure try my hardest ;)

[Doughboy]

Joel are those trusses C15015's? If so they wont sag in your lifetime as long as you dont hook up a block and tackle to lift your new lathe into position.....

Great work, mongrel bloody roller doors are the bain of my existance. I wil NEVER muck around with one again. :2tsup:

When is the christening/forum get together/bbq happening?:roll:

Pete

[rona]

Hi DJ;JDub; and others,
Have spent the last half hour reading through your developments with the shed.There were some very good points brought out before you got too far down the track, Wall height important because at 2.4 you would have had trouble with your roller door, as the roll takes up 380 mm.
You selected a gable roof with sisilation instead of a skillion like a lot do. Even at 15 degree pitch you will get condensation dripping from the purlins on a cold morning, let alone when there has been a frost. Not sure why you ended up so far from boundary line, in Vic it is legal to build on the boundary line(making sure spouting and downpipes are inside that line). I agree with your comments about roller doors, lucky you didn't have a motor installed, trying to fine tune those is a lot of fun, and also if yoy break or cut the bands before you have them bolted and tensioned you really know you are alive. As someone mentioned you cannot have enough power points or lights. I believe a power point should always be a double and that double addaptors should not be used under any circumstances. I built my first shed ten years ago out of brick (8m x9m) and the extension 12 months ago (8m x 8m) The frame was welded up by my son and it is covered in colourbond. I don't know whether I should mention power points and lights but here goes ............. Power points 28 double 10A, 14 double 15A on 12 circuits. The brick section is the way to go, especially on a hot day probably 10 - 12 degrees cooler.
I should perhaps mention that I was a builder for 12 years and a Trade teacher in the tech system for 25 years before I retired, so there were very little labour costs, I poured the slab, helped the brickie labouring, wired it all under the supervision of the sparky, and purchased all materials, light fittings, roller doors, windows, etc from firms I have dealt with for over 30 years, so the price was more than right, OK I have rattled on for too long, so Joel you and your mates have done an excellent job, I have seen sheds put up 'professionally' and they are a bloody disgrace, One more thing, with the good ladies approval in a few years, you may be able to extend out on the end where the old shed is, which would be excellent.

All the Best fellas,
Regards,
Ron.

[JDub]

Thanks for the comments Ron :D Your workshop certainly sounds like its well equipt :2tsup:
its hard to tell from the pics but the small shed is actually on a different level to the big one (sits about a foot lower with small concrete barrier around the back of it holding back the soil) so thats why the small shed stayed and the big one wasnt bigger.... it was simply to costly and difficult to get both areas on the same level (involved a lot more excavation and bigger retaining walls etc). I think it will be good anyway to have a separate area for storage and garden crap so it doesnt slowly take up room in the workshop.....


With regards to electrical supply this is what I have done/ am doing....

-5 x double 10A powerpoints on one circuit... given the relatively small size of the shed this means I dont have to go more than about 2m to find a point.
-1 x double 10A point in the old (now garden shed)... maybe on its own circuit too, the power will run from the board in the new shed.
-1 x lighting circuit for the fluros and the outside floodlight.

-I havnt put in any 15A points yet because I dont own anything that requires it... I will get my sparky to leave a spare spot in the sub board in case I need to get a 15A point in the future I think..... :? or maybe I should just put 1 x 15a point in now even though I may never use it???:?

Will post some pics of what Ive done so far (electrical) hopefully in the next couple of days....:cool:

Cheers
Joel

[TimberNut]

Joel, where the cladding sheets meet the slab, what is there to stop the water running down the outside of the walls, then under and into the shed?

I thought the cladding would come down lower than the top of the slab (ie frame edges would be level with outsides of the slab then cladding come down on the outsides of the slab and lower than the top level?) (see bodgy drawing :- )

close inspection of your photos it appears that the cladding ends on top of the slab (confused).

[pawnhead]

close inspection of your photos it appears that the cladding ends on top of the slab (confused).It looks like there's a pre formed flashing there that overhangs the slab a bit, but it doesn't go all the way to the corner.

I'd be more worried about water running down the roller door, and blowing under it. It looks like there's a slight fall to the outside under the door. A small step in the slab, behind the door would have been a good idea.

[Waldo]

I'd be more worried about water running down the roller door, and blowing under it. It looks like there's a slight fall to the outside under the door. A small step in the slab, behind the door would have been a good idea.

G'day JDub,

Or to take Pawnhead's idea, a simpler one may be to fix a length of rubber stripping from Clarke Rubber along the width and on the inside of the r/door to solve what will become a problem when it rains heavy enough. I've seen it done and solve the problem very simply in similar situations used on gates etc.

[JDub]

Joel, where the cladding sheets meet the slab, what is there to stop the water running down the outside of the walls, then under and into the shed?

I thought the cladding would come down lower than the top of the slab (ie frame edges would be level with outsides of the slab then cladding come down on the outsides of the slab and lower than the top level?) (see bodgy drawing :- )

close inspection of your photos it appears that the cladding ends on top of the slab (confused).


No, the cladding does indeed go down past the slab exactly like you have drawn in your picture, it extends about an inch below the finished level of the slab. It may look like it doesnt as I have put 'vermaseal' plastic edging around the perimetre to stop mice getting in through the gaps created by the wall ribs.

Here is a link to the stuff Im talking about
http://www.shedproducts.com/prod2-vermaseal.html

I will post a pic of it when I put up the pics of the electrical stuff.....

[JDub]

G'day JDub,

Or to take Pawnhead's idea, a simpler one may be to fix a length of rubber stripping from Clarke Rubber along the width and on the inside of the r/door to solve what will become a problem when it rains heavy enough. I've seen it done and solve the problem very simply in similar situations used on gates etc.

the roller door has a weather seal already attached and when closed forms a seal......

[TimberNut]

Joel, a close up picture of that'd be awesome when you can (if you would be so kind...)

thanks.

[rona]

Another way to seal under the door is to put a rebate in the concrete after it is poured and the whirlybird has finished, I put a rebate 100mm wide by 25mm deep under both doors, this along with the rubber seal that is already on the door will not allow any water under at all.In the recent downpour two weeks ago, we had 63mm straight at the door, not a drop inside just run along the rebate and out again.

Cheers,
Ron.

[JDub]

Joel, a close up picture of that'd be awesome when you can (if you would be so kind...)

thanks.


Here ya go Timbernut,

A pic of the outside and inside of the plastic vermaseal edge. It is a pic next to the PA door. The plastic edge sits on top of the slab edge on the inside and extends down and forms a lip on the outside about 25-30mm below the finished edge of the concrete... the sheeting sits on this lip. make sense?:-

3rd pic is how I ended up mounting the points, thanks for those who gave suggestions in the thread in the electrical forum.... :2tsup: Now if only I get the sparky out :rolleyes:

Joel