Poly over Danish?

[Darkplague]

I have a hoop pine plywood project, and wish to stain it to get a deeper colour as I dont like the whiteness of the ply.

I was playing around the other day on some scraps of hoop-ply. One sample I stained and then applied Cabots danish oil over the stain. It seemed to bring out the grain a lot more than just stained alone.

My question is can you stain, then oil, then put a poly over the top?
Are these 3 compatible or will it go bad after some weeks?

[Wongo]

I have never thought about putting poly on oil. Oil on poly is OK though.

[Darkplague]

I have never thought about putting poly on oil. Oil on poly is OK though.


Your saying you can put danish oil over the top of polyurethane?

hmmmm...

[Flowboy]

Hello Darkplague,

I have regularly used Wipe On Poly over Scandinavian (Danish) Oil with great results. Can't see that any other good quality Poly would be any different, just so long as its not a water base.

Regards,

Rob

[scooter]

Come again, Scott? Might have it back to front methinks.


Cheers.................Sean

[Darkplague]

Come again, Scott? Might have it back to front methinks.


Cheers.................Sean

Yes I hope he did!!! Had me thinking for a while :P

If I wanted to use a combination of danish oil and also a teak stain, which is best to apply first? The DO or the stain?

[boban]

Danish Oil is is a blend of oil and varnish. They are both compatible.

In Flexner's book at page 63 he states that "Oil and varnish (including polyurethane) are compatible, so they can be mixed.

Having said that, from the reading I have done, what you are proposing doesn't make sense, as the reason you would ordinarily use Danish Oil is lost once covered with Polyurethane.

As to staining, I use the Feast Watson stains which I thin heavily (1 stain, 10 methylated spirits) and spray prior to applying the finish. Works for me.

[Darkplague]

What doesnt make sense? I want to use the Danish oil to bring out the grain a little more, but because this is for a telescope project which is outside a lot, I need the added protection of the poly.

I have prepared some samples of plywood as such:

Sample 1: Danish oil, then stained golden teak, then coats of poly.

Sample 2: Golden teak , then coates of poly.

Sample 1 looks much better with the grain showing a lot more than sample 2.

This must be due to the danish oil I guess??

[Flowboy]

Hi Darkplague,

I tend to agree with you. I used poly over the Danish oil to give protection in high traffic areas where spillages, heat and such could be a problem. I haven't seen any degradation in oil colouration as a result.

By the way, Poly over danish, is that like a parrot over pastry??

Rob

[boban]

The part that Doesn't make sense is (according to those who know better than I) the reason Danish Oil is used is so that you get the oil look with the protection of the varnish. The formula is a compromise.

The more varnish in it, the better is protects, but the less is looks like an oil finish.

Once you put poly over the Danish oil, you would lose the oil look. Also the Danish oil will never harden to the same extent as poly. So then you have a hard finish over a soft base.

BTW, I'm no finishing expert and do not speak from actual experience with Danish Oil. I just tend to read a lot.

As to your experiment, I see what you are getting at. You are using the Danish Oil as a means to seal the wood before the the stain is applied. That in itself is also quite common.

[Darkplague]

Actually you dont lose as much of the oil look as you might think by putting the poly over the danish oil.

The samples I have done so far have looked far better with the grain showing up much more than the samples unoiled.

I will post a picture when I have done these samples.

I think I am starting to suffer from information overload right now. There are just so many variations and ways to finish your woodwork, that its becoming overwhelming.

The best way for me is to just get out there and do it and stop thinking about it so much!!!

But there is also another problem, and that is the cold!

In Adelaide it hardly gets over 10 degrees atm, hardly the best weather for finishes to dry properly and cure. Should I wait for warmer weather in a months time? Or I am worrying to much??

[scooter]

I think I am starting to suffer from information overload right now. There are just so many variations and ways to finish your woodwork, that its becoming overwhelming.

The best way for me is to just get out there and do it and stop thinking about it so much!!!

Bang on the money, Dark, this is me to a tee ! :)

Reality check - have a crack it it & see what you learn.


Cheers.....................Sean

[rabster]

Wipe-on-poly over Danish oil works a treat for me. I find that applying an initial coat of Danish oil brings out the grain better that going straight to the Poly.

I read somehere that you have to let the Danish oil dry thoroughly before applying the Poly. I reckon 2-3 days is enough.

Cheers, Rab.

[Darkplague]

Wipe-on-poly over Danish oil works a treat for me. I find that applying an initial coat of Danish oil brings out the grain better that going straight to the Poly.

I read somehere that you have to let the Danish oil dry thoroughly before applying the Poly. I reckon 2-3 days is enough.

Cheers, Rab.

Thats what I have found on my sample pieces too. The grain definitely looks better/more defined!

[Darkplague]

Also the Danish oil will never harden to the same extent as poly. So then you have a hard finish over a soft base.



Hmmm, the base will still be soft if I use Danish oil or not won't it? It is only Hoop-pine plywood afterall. I dont really understand where youre going with this.

If anything the base will be slightly harder by using the DO rather than just el natural :confused:

[boban]

Please don't let me discourage you in any way. I'm just passing on info and my conclusions based on that info.

I'll exaggerate to get my point across. If you coat something with jelly, then coat it with concrete you dont exactly get the strength of the concrete. (Best I could do right now.)

I may well be wrong and am happy to be told as much.

The best way is to continue on the same course. Test a few pieces and do what you are happy with.

[Wongo]

I have never thought about putting poly on oil. Oil on poly is OK though.

Why do I only put poly on oil?

1.use Danish oil to avoid the brush marks created by poly
2.use poly as first coat so the timber will not drink up half a tin of my Danish oil

why I never thought about putting poly on oil?

See point 1 & 2 and what boban said.


Not exactly back to front is it?:cool:

[Darkplague]

Why do I only put poly on oil?

1.use Danish oil to avoid the brush marks created by poly
2.use poly as first coat so the timber will not drink up half a tin of my Danish oil

why I never thought about putting poly on oil?

See point 1 & 2 and what boban said.


Not exactly back to front is it?:cool:

Ive read through this ten times and it still seems like you are contradicting yourself.

[boban]

Ive read through this ten times and it still seems like you are contradicting yourself.

Not really, but you must learn to read Chinglish first:D

He saying he always uses the Poly first then the Danish.

Then he gives the reason why. They are:

-He uses Danish Oil over the poly to avoid the brushstrokes that he seem to get with poly.

-He uses poly first to avoid half a tin of Danish Oil being sucked up by the timber.

[ubeaut]

Use linseed or boiled linseed over the stain to bring out the grain (age old polishing process) you could also use a coat of shellac for a similar effect, then poly over the oil or shellac.

Oil will take a long time to dry. Shellac can be coated over after a couple of hours.

You could also use shellac over the oil to seal it before applying the poly.

Probably a better deal in the long run than using the danish which ain't cheap.

Cheers - Neil :)