help with tiling PICS!!!!

[drummelars]

hi guys just purchased some tiles for the laundry the tiles are 20x20 cm.

my questions are.

The floor tends to slope down around the drain hole for obvios reasons . How would i go about keeping the tiles flat?? there is about and 8mm gap as the floor slopes down toward the drain at its highest deppest point.

Also since the drain cap is flush with the cement floor how do i also get the drain cap to sit flush with the new height of the tiles?

3rd questions is should i tile first then fit the laundry tub? Or fit the tub then not worry about tiling the inside of the bottom of the tub??? And also what is the bst way o go around the tub drain in the picturs above??

Cheers in advance

PS im just a young bloke not a real handy man just tryingto save some money. I gutted the hole laundry and relayed new villaboard now im in the painting process as you can see from the pictures.

http://users.tpg.com.au/jselmes/tile/c.jpg


http://users.tpg.com.au/jselmes/tile/d.jpg


http://users.tpg.com.au/jselmes/tile/k.jpg


http://users.tpg.com.au/jselmes/tile/f.jpg

http://users.tpg.com.au/jselmes/tile/e.jpg

[boban]

First thing I would do is waterproof the walls where they meet the floor.

Next would be to get a 100mm grinder and a diamond blade and cut around the drain hole and remove the concrete around it. The grate will be one that slides into the sewer pipe and held in place by the concrete. It shouldn't be glued in. Dont worry about trying to save the grate just buy a new one.

The tiles wont be flat but it wont be too noticeable either. Just get the fall right. That is toward the grate.

Check your concrete, and if it's OK, then you can use a notch trowel to spread the tile glue. This will make laying the tiles easier. Just do a little at a time and check the fall as you lay each tile. Dont be too obsessed with pressing the tiles down too hard.

As to when you tile, before or after the tub. I always install the floor tiles first then fix the tub. Then tile around it for the wall tiles.

[drummelars]

First thing I would do is waterproof the walls where they meet the floor.

Next would be to get a 100mm grinder and a diamond blade and cut around the drain hole and remove the concrete around it. The grate will be one that slides into the sewer pipe and held in place by the concrete. It shouldn't be glued in. Dont worry about trying to save the grate just buy a new one.

The tiles wont be flat but it wont be too noticeable either. Just get the fall right. That is toward the grate.

Check your concrete, and if it's OK, then you can use a notch trowel to spread the tile glue. This will make laying the tiles easier. Just do a little at a time and check the fall as you lay each tile. Dont be too obsessed with pressing the tiles down too hard.

As to when you tile, before or after the tub. I always install the floor tiles first then fix the tub. Then tile around it for the wall tiles.

hay bob the grate actually is a screw in and pops out no problems at all should i still cut around it ?

[drummelars]

also what should the floor be cleaned with prior to tiling?

[drummelars]

First thing I would do is waterproof the walls where they meet the floor.

Next would be to get a 100mm grinder and a diamond blade and cut around the drain hole and remove the concrete around it. The grate will be one that slides into the sewer pipe and held in place by the concrete. It shouldn't be glued in. Dont worry about trying to save the grate just buy a new one.

The tiles wont be flat but it wont be too noticeable either. Just get the fall right. That is toward the grate.

Check your concrete, and if it's OK, then you can use a notch trowel to spread the tile glue. This will make laying the tiles easier. Just do a little at a time and check the fall as you lay each tile. Dont be too obsessed with pressing the tiles down too hard.

As to when you tile, before or after the tub. I always install the floor tiles first then fix the tub. Then tile around it for the wall tiles.


Also boban what should i waterproof the walls with i already used a wet area CSR joint compound with villaboard sheets at the bottom and gyprock at as the top sheet to the roof.

[boban]

Yes the centre pops out but so does the rest of the grate. The grates have a sleeve with a lip which slides into the sewer pipe. These things cost less than $10 so dont bother trying to save the grate. Just cut it out and slide in a new one to the height of the tiles as you are laying the tiles around grate. Buy a round grate, its easier to cut the hole in the tile.

Now the waterproofing I find easiest to use is an acrylic based one. Use silicone as a bond breaker instead of the foam strip that is usually supplied in the waterproofing kits. You'll see what I mean when you read their instructions. This is because you will probably be using glue instead of a sand and cement based bed. Try Durotech in Minto for a good priced kit. Otherwise most hardwares have them for less than $100.

The waterproofing would only be applied about 150mm high from the floor. You dont need to do the whole floor area, just the edges. Although if you have enough left over, them paint the whole floor. Better than storing or turfing the excess.

[boban]

As far as cleaning is concerned, it depends on whats on the floor now.

A hydrochloric acid/water rinse probably wont hurt the cause as the concrete seems smooth trowel finished. The acid will etch it a bit.

[drummelars]

yeah im using addflex a glue type adhesive for the tiles as i thought i may need some flexibilty if the concrete moves or hairline cracks get any bigger. That wasnt cheap at $35 for 20kg.

Yeah im not 100% on what you mean about this water proofing thing is it like a paintable selaaer type thing?? Sorry!

And i just got a coat hanger and hooked i onto the grate and the wole great came out easily so now its just the hole and no grate. So i guess i wont have to pay $10 after all or grind anything out and make a big mess ahahahahah LOL.

[boban]

The waterproofing is like really thick paint. You paint it into the corners and put some fibreglass strips or polyester strips onto that then paint it again. Its pretty simple, just follow the instructions in the kit.

[Pulse]

drummelars,
your floor actually looks in good nick, have you thought about epoxy painting it? anyway not much good if you've bought the tiles. As Boban said you need to remove the old floor waste, when you tile fix the new one level with the tiles using tile adhesive. You don't have to waterproof the corner but it is a good idea if the floor will become wet often or if it is not a ground floor installation.

Your concrete looks steel floated which does not allow tiles to adhere well, try etching the concrete with a 1:10 hydrochloric acid solution and then prime with a PVA based primer. Detailed instructions are on the back of most adhesive packets. Davco make good stuff.

Cheers
Pulse

[drummelars]

cheers for all the help guys